As for the question on NAPA- they seel the CRC coolant additive under the NAPA brand name, its about 5 bucks, and works well. Use distilled water and 50% anti freeze with it, unless you live in the cold, cold North.
I know the temp gauges aren't totally accurate, but mine runs 160 to 180 max in the hottest weather pulling my tow car. I also removed my heater core, and forgot to put it back, and that did not affect the engine temps at all, other than my cockpit temp is lower. Now if i can finally insulate the floor better between the engine and the cockpit---I have looked into it, but not yet done it.
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
I flushed and filled the coach and added the Engine kool and those steps dropped the operating temp aboput 5 degrees. I do have a problem, however, with the oil cooling fan that I've posted as a different thread. I am going to trace the battery wire from the fan to its source and see if that's where the problem lies. However, if push comes to shove, I'll take the advice of hardwiring a switch on the dash to fire it up.
Nick,
Just an FYI - My electric fans fire up on the thermostat but they are also wired into a dash switch....so if for some reason I don't turn them on...they still come on when the temp hits 220.
Well, push came to shove so I hardwired the fan to a toggle switch I installed on the dash. The curious thing I discovered upon investigation of the circuit wiring routing was that the fan was being powered by a wire that was bridged to the power wire that fed the AC fan clutch. It looked like a Harry Homeowner job and not a factory install. The battery lead never goes to any type of thermostat or sensing unit. I can't trace where the AC clutch fan battery lead comes from as it disappears into a chase that is wrapped by heat retarding aluminum foil in front of the passenger seat under the dash. My best guess is that it was wired to come on when the AC was turned on, but the logic behind this escapes me. Anywho, I got it blasting away and it has reduced the temperature another 10 degrees at idle. So, now I'm down from 220 to 205. Maybe it will reduce more as I get the rig rollong and more air can pass through.
Thanks to all who offered suggestions.................
I can't trace where the AC clutch fan battery lead comes from as it disappears into a chase that is wrapped by heat retarding aluminum foil in front of the passenger seat under the dash. My best guess is that it was wired to come on when the AC was turned on, but the logic behind this escapes me.
If you are talking about the ac compressor clutch it works of the heater/ac control. The ac condensor needs air flow to remove the heat, sounds like it was wired for this.
Well, push came to shove so I hardwired the fan to a toggle switch I installed on the dash.......the fan was being powered by a wire that was bridged to the power wire that fed the AC fan clutch.......
Nick:
You might want to check how many amps the fan is pulling.
Most of the installations I have seen turn the aux fan by two methods -
1.) If the AC is "on".
2.) A "high temp" sensor in the radiator.
Most of these switches are only rated for a few amperes.
The most usual "relay" is the 1" X 1" X 1" cube.
Also, most of the relay senders (signal from the "sensing" probe) operate by sending a "ground" signal to the switching relay - not by closing a positive circuit. Once the "ground" signal is received by the relay, the relay closes the high amp positive load circuit.
Some of the aux fans could draw as much as 20 amps.
If you do not have a relay in the circuit, you may want to consider wiring one in. -- Don't forget to slap a fuse or two in the line.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
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