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Old 07-23-2004, 04:20 PM   #15
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Sounds good, I will check out NAPA and see what they have.
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Old 07-31-2004, 09:28 PM   #16
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Normal Temp for 370?

I'm posting again about the '89 370 I'm looking to buy. When I drove it home three weeks ago to give it a try, it was 96 degrees outdoors. I ran some 65 mph interstate, AC (dash) on, and the engine coolant sat on about 220 at 65. At 55 mph I noticed it quickly cooled to 200. Manual says between 190-240 is "normal". That seems quite a range to me, but that's what Airstream has in the book. Anyway, the 370 has a Ford 460 with the C6 transmission, stock headers, oil and transmission external coolers (in front of the radiator and AC condenser), and auxilliary after-market fans installed directly in front of the radiator. New radiator larger than original. The exhaust manifolds (stock) were both leaking and are right now in the shop being repaired. Should I go ahead and put Banks on now? The mechanics at the shop (I know the guys and they work on large RVs and trucks every day) seem to think that repairing the stock exhausts will be enough. Any help you can offer will be appreciated.

Noiva
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Old 07-31-2004, 09:34 PM   #17
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240 seems VERY high. I run 180 - 190 at 65...climbs to just below 200 in a long climb. flushing the cooling system and putting in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water then adding some water wetter or Tow Kool will help. I used to run where you are before doing all of this.

I had "stock" headers and replaced with Hedmanns down to 2.5" pipes with a crossover and free flow mufflers. The Banks system is pretty darn good and will last a long time. I did mine the "cheap" way (about $600 from Jegs) and have been happy with the improvements in performance and temp reduction under the doghouse.

You may consider adding it later if the repaired exhaust gives you more trouble or doesn't live up to your expectations.
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Old 07-31-2004, 09:51 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noiva
I'm posting again about the '89 370 I'm looking to buy. When I drove it home three weeks ago to give it a try, it was 96 degrees outdoors. I ran some 65 mph interstate, AC (dash) on, and the engine coolant sat on about 220 at 65. At 55 mph I noticed it quickly cooled to 200. Manual says between 190-240 is "normal". That seems quite a range to me, but that's what Airstream has in the book. Anyway, the 370 has a Ford 460 with the C6 transmission, stock headers, oil and transmission external coolers (in front of the radiator and AC condenser), and auxilliary after-market fans installed directly in front of the radiator. New radiator larger than original. The exhaust manifolds (stock) were both leaking and are right now in the shop being repaired. Should I go ahead and put Banks on now? The mechanics at the shop (I know the guys and they work on large RVs and trucks every day) seem to think that repairing the stock exhausts will be enough. Any help you can offer will be appreciated.

Noiva
IIRC, the 370 was built on a Gillig bus chassis. If this is the case, it is set up with a slightly higher ratio rear end than the GM 454 units. The engine will rev higher, and run hotter because of this, among other things. MPH should be kept to around 60, the faster the internal engine parts flail around, the faster they wear out. There is more to it then that, of course, but that is the gist of it. That is also a reason you noticed your temp climbing at a speed over that. On the bright side, you should have less trouble keeping up with city traffic.
Since you are getting the manifolds fixed now, go ahead and use them, and just start saving your pennies for a Banks when the rest of the exhaust starts to go South on the coach. Banks exhaust works well, and will make a difference, but I am from the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school.
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Old 08-01-2004, 08:48 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argosy20
....... MPH should be kept to around 60, the faster the internal engine parts flail around, the faster they wear out.......Since you are getting the manifolds fixed now, go ahead and use them, and just start saving your pennies for a Banks when the rest of the exhaust starts to go South on the coach. Banks exhaust works well, and will make a difference, but I am from the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school.

Terry:

I whole heartedly agree with you on the 60 mph thing, my 345 turns about 3050 to 3100 rpm at +/- 60 to 63 mph. This is definitely the "sweet spot" on my rig, and by carefully watching the vacuum gauge, I can keep the speed "in the groove", as the exact speed where all of the harmonic vibrations settle down varies a bit with the road surface.

However, on the Banks set up......there is no better time to change out the exhaust system than the present....the old manifold is already out, has failed at least once, and there will be some cost to make the repair.

Even though the Banks works very well, a major advantage of the "Banks System" is the air inlet system, and I would suspect that any good exhaust manifold tuned to the operating speeds of the 460 would benefit Noiva's application.

FWIW, if the 370 were mine, depending on how restrictive the stock is, I would be strongly tempted to find a good mid-priced set of exhaust headers and install them right now, eliminating the expense of having to remove the exhaust system in the future.
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Old 08-01-2004, 09:58 AM   #20
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Holy mackrel Steve, we think alike. I got my Hedman's from Summit Racing for a little over $100 and use free flowing exhaust (flowmasters). Did not want to spend $$ for the banks.
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Old 08-02-2004, 03:43 AM   #21
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I just bought a 19889 370 LE. I ran it home at 60 mph and the temp gauge registered 215-220. In addition to a flush/fill and adding the water wetter, any other suggestions?

Also, I believe I read somewhere you can get the water wetter at NAPA stores. Can anyone verify this?

Muchas gracias.....
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:24 AM   #22
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Welcome to the Forum!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I just bought a 1989 370 LE. I ran it home at 60 mph and the temp gauge registered 215-220. In addition to a flush/fill and adding the water wetter, any other suggestions?.............
Yeah, Nick......Post some pics of your rig!!!

Welcome to the Forum --


Nick - my 345 runs 210 to 215 all of the time - even at idle - for this reason, I think my thermostat is set to keep that range. I do intend to change the thermostat to a 185 (or lower) degree unit as soon as the opportunity presents itself.

Most of the 345's have an aux electric fan mounted on the front of the radiator.....mine is wired to the AC and a high temp sensor in the radiator. Either of these two will turn on the fans to move more air through the radiator. Is your set up similar?

There is a Forum Ralley in North Georgia October 22, 23, and 24. I suspect there will be quite a few Motor Homes there - any chance you could make it?
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Old 08-03-2004, 12:42 PM   #23
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Talking Operating temp

Thanks for replying. Excuse me if I'm violating any forum posting policy, but it's my first time.

I don't have the same fan set up you have. I have an oil cooler fan on the radiator on the passenger side. I'm going to investigate to see if I can move it.

I'm taking it in Thursday for a radiator flush/fill. I having the mechanic add some of NAPA's version of Water Wetter to see if it helps lower the temperature as advertised.

What type and viscosity engine oil do you use? I'm thinking of using a synthetic ( Mobil1, etc.) at 10W 40.

I don't know about the rally yet. I'll have to wait a while and see what happens.

Where do you live? I live in Kitty Hawk, NC and we are getting hit by Hurricane Alex right now. It's not too bad though.

I tried to post some pics but they are an invalid file type. I'll try to re-save them and post later.

Keep in touch.

Nick Danger, Third Eye
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Old 08-03-2004, 02:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I have an oil cooler fan on the radiator on the passenger side. I'm going to investigate to see if I can move it.
Instead of moving it, you might consider adding an additional fan, some things you just can't have too much of, that includes cooling air on a large vehicle used mostly in the South.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
What type and viscosity engine oil do you use? I'm thinking of using a synthetic ( Mobil1, etc.) at 10W 40.
Personally, I use any of the larger refiners straight 40 weight. Remember, I have to cross at least 3 hours of Houston, Texas flat land before I get ANYWHERE.....my engine is up to 200 degrees within 3 minutes of start-up, and I always have at least 5 minutes of loading time (with the engine running) prior to departure....I have very little "cold run time". I am not saying the synthetics do not have a place, just for me, changing the oil every 3,000 miles and knowing that the 454's all consume a generous amount of oil, I have a hard time justifying the expense of a pure synthetic. My engine also has 80,000 miles on it. When I do replace the engine, however, there is a good chance I will go with synthetics after the break-in. (Flame proof protection has now been installed.)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I tried to post some pics but they are an invalid file type. I'll try to re-save them and post later.
Try saving the pics as JPEGS's or .jpg's, and resize to 600 X 400 prior to uploading as attachments.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:51 PM   #25
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Dennis, have you tried semi-synthetic oil? Or even adding one quart of synthetic along with the rest standard oil?
Tests have shown that as little as 20% synthetic oil will offer most of the same protection and mileage characteristics as full synthetic, with much less cost.
I have taken to using 5W20 semi-synthetic blend in all new vehicles coming into my shop that specify 5W20. Several hundred cars and light trucks running around with it, and zero reported oil-related problems. Not even the Ford Triton V10 with its proclivity for galling pistons has had a problem.
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Old 08-21-2004, 04:59 PM   #26
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Question oil question

I think I'll go with the 5w 50 or staright 50w racing oil. I always let the eigine warm up for about 10 minutes before skeedaddling, so I think it should thin out enough and provide good heat protection. What are your thoughts?
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Old 08-21-2004, 05:26 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Danger
I think I'll go with the 5w 50 or staright 50w racing oil. ...... What are your thoughts?
Nick:

Personally, I'd nix the straight 50 weight. I ran 50w in the 345 this last oil change (changed it yesterday). Basicly, this oil change was a trip from Houston to St. Louis. The engine behaved OK, as did the oil, the problem was in the changing of it this past weekend. It was so thick, even in low 90 degree temps, it would barely flow out of the pan. The oil was still transluscent, and had about 2000 miles on it, was not run "hot", and had a slight "burnt" odor to it. Pretty much normal for an engine with 81,000 miles on it that has been pulling around 16,000 lbs plus all of its life.

I plan to stick with straight 40 weight until the engine change (with a LOT of thought to the comments of Argosy20 above).

Bottom line, 50 weight didn't hurt, I had oil pressure right away at startup, kept it in all summer (only made one short trip since May, though), and it still appeared to be in good shape when I drained it.

After having tried it, I'm going back to 40 weight.
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Old 09-02-2004, 02:09 PM   #28
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Simply rewire the fans (I have two small units for my AC) to a switch that you install on the dash (disconnect the thermostats). When the engine temperature gets too hot turn on the fans. Even on a warm day this will delay the main cooling fan from turning on and thus improve horsepower, noise level and gas mileage. This is really useful on a cool day when you are in the mountains.
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