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rmkrum · 04-12-2015, 09:22 PM

Be sure to add some cleaner to the tank as well. Sometimes that will get the gunk out of it. Be ready to replace fuel filter(s) when you do this. Carry spares. 😀

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Auretrvr · 04-15-2015, 06:31 PM

Our 310 started dying when going to idle after a fairly long drive. Finally, it got to where it would go haywire and die at very inconvenient times on the road. When it was cold it would start and run, and then after while it would die again.

We had already had carburetor service and used non-ethanol gas and put additive in the tank during storage.

Boiled down to the ignition module or the ignition switch. Already had a new ignition module. Yes, it was burned-up contacts on the 30 year old ignition switch. I replaced the switch And the pigtail--it was burned also.

One of the more elusive troubleshooting experiences I have had with our 310.

Hummer · 04-16-2015, 07:49 AM

Had the same thing happen on a Int 140 tractor, would start and run great then all of a sudden it shut off. Changed gas and it ran a bit and started missing and cutting off. Cleaned out carb, added new gas and pulled the ignition switch to the on position prior to engaging starter. As soon as the switch was pulled it started WITHOUT ENGAGING STARTER.

Seemed to indicate switch trouble, got new ignition switch and it has run fine ever since.

In my Honda Accord (82) I used no name gas for a while. Ran a emergency call for a car off bridge and got there and it would not idle down. Took it to Honda place and mechanic sprayed it with carb cleaner and ran long nose pliers down in carb to move parts around. I asked him what caused it and he asked if I was using no name gas and I admitted I was. He said that was the problem as the no name gas does not have the additives the big names has and it will clog up the moving parts in a carb.

He said run big name gas and it will not happen again. That was 15 years go and so far he has been right. Drove the Honda to 191,000 and sold it and it never did it again.