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Old 12-14-2005, 07:06 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
alright guys- give me your opinions....
Just as important as the oil for longevity is the filter -

Check out the following website:

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-o...n-oilpart5.htm

I also believe the "add-on" external filters (both absolute flow and bypass) are great investments if you have room for them.
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Old 12-14-2005, 07:19 AM   #16
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all great info....I definitely believe in the use of quality oil filter also, i use Wix from Napa.
after reading a lot of other info, I would say Synth is the best...but for those like me with 5 vehicles and a bit of a budget....use the best rated name brand Dino oil you can afford. I think I will be using Quaker State after looking at the comparison charts. Its 7 bucks for five quarts vs. Castrol at 12.75 right now. I also routinely change it every 6 months or 5000 miles.
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Old 12-14-2005, 08:26 AM   #17
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ALANSD, If my memory serves me correctly (which is debatable ), you do a lot of road driving, so you are less likely to build up sludge and contaminants than someone who does more city driving. Your schedule of changes sounds very reasonable to me, and apparently it's been working for your vehicle, especially you MH. If given a choice between regular routine changes and the price of synthetic engine oil, I'd go with regular changes if money is an issue - and it certainly is for me . Gears are another issue, I think. Since they are not subjected to combustion, the contamination factor is almost nil. I'd spend the extra money and put synthetics in axles, especially on the MH. Can't tell about the heat in there, nor the stresses, so I think it makes sense use synthetics as a precaution. Bottom line, in my opinion, regular is better than longer regardless of type.

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Old 12-14-2005, 01:11 PM   #18
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lots of info on oil options, how syn is made and so on out there on the world wide web. some syn is actually refined from dino, while others are fully cooked in the lab.....the link mentioned early in this thread is good and google will offer.....well a google more links.


if driving regularly and changing often (3k) dino is fine....stick to the newest highs api ratings...

if driving infrequently (like a moho that sits...) or driving high performance (track events) and at high temps....syn is a better choice.

also if wanting to go longer (5-20k) between changes, syn plus an occasional oil analysis is the best route.

for someone with LOTS of vehicles to maintain.....i'd suggest trying a syn blend.....this will give most of the benefits of syns at much less money....

also one can just add a full quart of full syn to the regular dino change....making your own syn-blend.....absolutetly safe and it does improve things....

cheers
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Old 12-14-2005, 02:51 PM   #19
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ALANSD, I think 2air' has some excellent proposals. In your case, I think I remember your MH gets lots of use, so I doubt you are the dealing the the typical pattern. By the way, I've got to say 2airishuman's avatar is one of the most clever I've seen . Got to love that picture!
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Old 12-14-2005, 03:01 PM   #20
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I'm lucky if I do 6,000 a year with the van. Its life is primarily a tow vehicle and occasional haller of big things. I drive it probably once a month in the winter to keep things flowing and it's never used for short trips. It lives in the garage and doesn't go out in the snow. I consider that this van will be my tow vehicle for the next 10 years or so. I decided to do the Mobil 1 and filter route last year since I'm really on an annual oil change schedule. Its first oil change was semi-synth and last spring's change was its first synth. I currently have 14,000 miles on it.

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Old 12-14-2005, 04:10 PM   #21
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I'm lucky if I do 6,000 a year with the van. Its life is primarily a tow vehicle and occasional haller of big things. I drive it probably once a month in the winter to keep things flowing and it's never used for short trips. It lives in the garage and doesn't go out in the snow. I consider that this van will be my tow vehicle for the next 10 years or so. I decided to do the Mobil 1 and filter route last year since I'm really on an annual oil change schedule. Its first oil change was semi-synth and last spring's change was its first synth. I currently have 14,000 miles on it.

Jack
Jack,

Before I got my 370 MH I was towing a 30' Avion trailer with an '03 2500 Suburban 6.0 liter. It has the oil monitoring system, and my mileage/usage was just about exactly like yours. I still have the Avion and the Suburban, so I'm curious to know if you have the monitoring system on your Savanna, and if you think it's accurate. If I keep my A/S MH, something's got to go .

Just a side note: I had a 1979 Chevrolet Caprice Wagon for 15 years, towed several different trailers with it (including the Avion), changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles with organic oils. It had 200,000 miles on it when I sold it, and was still running fine. Very little oil use even at the end of my ownership. I'm not saying that synthetic oils aren't superior lubricants - I believe they are - but on a cost/benefit scale I'd have to go with cost since money is an issue to me, and some others on the forum.

Tim
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Old 12-14-2005, 04:45 PM   #22
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Tim, I do have a system that supposedly tells me when to change oil. Its never come on to tell me so. Obviously because I don't short trip this vehicle and keep the mileage low so I assume that is why the system doesn't turn on the change indicator light.

I've had good life with dino oils on all my previous tow vehicles but did switch to semi-synth few years back with the previous tow vehicle. Even though the current van's specs say a 12 month change was allowable based on my usage, I felt that the synth would make me feel better about that extended change period. Previously on my other tow vehicle, I'd change twice a year when I used semi-synth.

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Old 12-14-2005, 04:59 PM   #23
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Jack, If your system is like mine it has steering wheel control buttons for lots of functions. One is the oil monitor. By pushing the lower left button several times, it tells me what % of oil life I (supposedly) have left. I have no idea how accurate that is, so I do exactly what you used to do. I change the oil twice a year if I don't make my own standard of 3,000 miles. Also, my truck is used exactly like yours. Mostly a garage thing. I planned to keep it forever (well, almost that long), and since I have less than 16K after a little more than 3 years, it should last that long. Do you have the 6.0 engine? Also, I have the 4.10 axle. What do you have? I think these two vehicles are virtually the same if you remove the bodies from the frames.

All the best,

Tim
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Old 12-14-2005, 07:14 PM   #24
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November or April ?

I only change the oil in my moho once a year since I run so few miles. When is the best time of the year to change it? I've been doing my main maintenance in the fall so I know it will be ready in the spring. Should I continue with this or is my brain missing something (again)?
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Old 12-14-2005, 07:35 PM   #25
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Fall is better than spring mainly because you will not be allowing sludge and contaminants to sit in your engine block, clog up passages, and silt up the lower parts of your engine. Kind of like the advice they give for lawn mowers in the fall. I am surprised you don't have some difficulties with seals drying out if you don't run it at all for several months. I just got an '89 370 that had not been run regularly for pretty much since it was new. Most of the problems I've encountered have been from irregular or lack of use. It's really good if you can at least run the engine and operate ALL the systems at least once a month - year round. Better yet if you can get it out on the highway about that often. Keeps all the mechanical parts working and lubricated. If you can't run it during off-season, I would definitely use the best synthetic oil you can buy. Start-up is when you get most wear, and synthetic is definitely better at not running down completely into your pan than organic oils. Since you have a 1977 MH, I'm assuming you aren't experiencing any major problems related to the way you have been doing. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it
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Old 12-14-2005, 08:43 PM   #26
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Home grown blend

You can also "blend your own" synthetic blend, simply by using 1 quart synthetic oil, of the same viscosity, brand, and API rating, for every 3 quarts of organic oil. You will get most of the benefits of synthetic, at a much reduced cost. This is what the stuff you buy pre-blended in the bottles is.
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Old 12-14-2005, 08:56 PM   #27
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Modern dino oil is good for much more than 3000 miles. The 3000mile interval is a complete invention of the oil change chains. I believe that it is completely safe to go with the manufacturer's recommendation for the service in which your vehicle is used. ( Light, regular or severe)
Unfortunately, oil analysis costs about as much as a cheap oil change, and the results are often hard to read and understand, otherwise I'd have my oil tested before changing it.
A good quality oil and fiter change every 5000 - 7500 miles or so has kept our family car running for over 250000 miles so far.
the Suburban has had Amsoil Synth and Amsoil oil filters, at 10k intervals, now for 120k miles. The dealer claims that my engine in the Suburban is in excellent condition.
A 3000 mile oil change interval with a cheap filter is worse than running the oil longer with a good quality filter.
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Old 12-14-2005, 11:30 PM   #28
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Modern dino oil is good for much more than 3000 miles. The 3000mile interval is a complete invention of the oil change chains./
/Unfortunately, oil analysis costs about as much as a cheap oil change, and the results are often hard to read and understand, otherwise I'd have my oil tested before changing it.
Bingo on the first part!
It is not necessary to have the oil analyzed at every oil change ... thus the cost isn't all that bad ... considering the value of the information you get back. Also, if you have been changing every 3,000 miles or so ... and learn that you can safely go longer between changes ... you'll actually be saving money. The reports I get are easy to read and just as easy to understand.
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