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Old 12-06-2017, 02:45 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
Read that word press blog,wow, long but very well done. Makes me want to use valvoline for high mileage cars and add Prolong, to. It.
If that guy recommended a chlorinated paraffin (Prolong) then it was a waste of time reading. Or, you’re welcome to add a product that almost 30% chlorine to your motor. Those are your rod & main bearings, not mine. Modern oil really didn’t need any help. I wouldn’t run a used lawnmower on brand new 1980s oil.

See my above post for a plan.

Go over to BITOG if you want to learn about oil. There are bound to be UOAs of 454 engines in HD service.

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Old 12-07-2017, 02:38 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
might make more sense to use a magnetic drain plug. ths would gather the shrapnel to the lowest point and then it would easily be removed on draining.
I'll try not too think about this oil stuff too much more, but would I be right in saying that thoes micro particles circulating uncountable times through the motor like an abrasive in a carrier solution eg oil, that does the most work towards scoring your bearing surfaces ?
Think how a water jet cutter cuts through nearly everything by having very very fine particles suspended in the water solution.
I guess that small magnetic drain plug with gravities help catches the large shrapnell, but to small n low powered for anything else, hense the large rare earth magnets that cover such a large area as the oil filter housing. I'd say that thoes Filtermags would be earning there keep.


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Old 12-07-2017, 09:20 AM   #31
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Lots of great info being shared here.
I am pleasntly surprised by some of the scientific tests that make great sense. It will shape my oil choices going forward for sure.
My name is Steve.... and I am an Alumaholic!
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Old 12-07-2017, 04:33 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
If that guy recommended a chlorinated paraffin (Prolong) then it was a waste of time reading. Or, you’re welcome to add a product that almost 30% chlorine to your motor. Those are your rod & main bearings, not mine. Modern oil really didn’t need any help. I wouldn’t run a used lawnmower on brand new 1980s oil.
I appreciate your comment, and I agree with it. Thanks for calling it out. The author puts a disclaimer in the "Does Prolong really work" section of the article regarding your concerns. He also says something similar to your comment about newer oils; that they really don't need an additive if you buy a quality oil to begin with.

"• This Prolong Engine Treatment motor oil additive works amazingly well in all types of oils, at all ranking levels. It is the REAL DEAL in terms of improving wear protection. You just have to decide for yourself if it is worth the extra money for your own particular needs. For most people, it would be more cost effective to simply choose a highly ranked oil in the first place, and avoid using any additives at all. But, for heavily loaded race engines, flat tappet engines, and for flat tappet break-in, where the ultimate in wear protection is desired, it could be worth considering.

• But, keep in mind that I only test an oil’s “Wear Protection Capability”. That provides the information that people usually care about most. However, that data is limited to ONLY wear protection capability, and does NOT provide any information as to how compatible overall this product’s chlorine may be with a given oil’s additive package. Chlorine and additive package incompatibility has a possible risk of creating damaging bearing corrosion problems. Contact Prolong’s maker for more information on compatibility to find out if it is safe to use in your application. The test data on Prolong is included here for informational purposes only. I do not endorse nor recommend its use."
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:35 AM   #33
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Mobil 1 15W/50 Oil with high ZDDP

Each "weight" rating has different formulation even among the same brand. Much research has been done on another forum I frequent, whose cars have 32 valves with flat tappets. We use high ZDDP (zinc-phosphorus) oils such as Mobil 1 15-W50 to help with cam wear issues. I use it in my 1973 Dodge 360, works so far. Reasearch auto oils with high ZDDP content. I do not believe diesel oils are the only answer. Also usually on sale at Walmart for about $5/quart.
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:46 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
My 454 has about 60K miles on it and I was considering a synthetic for my spring oil change. Maybe Mobil 1 10-30?
This Rotella T6 looks interesting but I am a bit concerned about the 5W40 viscosity rating?
I also plan on using Blackstone to analyze the old oil that has been in there for 2 seasons and only 1K miles on it. (I ran it for 2 seasons because Blackstone claims that testing oil with low miles is almost pointless because there are only small traces to work with)
What are your thoughts on the Rotella T6 5W40 in the 454?
Chevron. Rotella, 15- 40 .......all you need

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