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Old 08-28-2003, 05:57 AM   #15
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cooling lines

Steve,
Cooling lines ,either transmission.. or motor oil, operate under MUCH LESS pressure than brake lines. you are able to use brake lines as they are designed to withstand much higher operating pressure.
Now if you are wanting to replace FLEXABLE hose lines,
thay can be made by most larger napa stores,they use Hydraulic lines for this, altho I have seen people sucessfully use plain ol fuel hose on the trans cooler lines as these are low pressure.
If you plan on adding a aux. trans cooler, route the trans. oil throught the radiator cooler FIRST, to cool it down to coolant temp
(approx) than through the aux. cooler for additional cooling.

Usually trans. coolerl lines are 5/16" with inverted nut fittings
engin oil cooler lines are bigger 3/8' or maybe 7/16'
Tractor supply co. also has Hyd lines(hoses) already made up.
I think they come by the foot. also farm machinery dealers make custom hoses.
I hope this helpes.
George
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Old 08-28-2003, 05:59 AM   #16
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Passengerside lines are usualy transmission.

Is the ends on those lines double flare or single flare? Double flare tool is $25 at a auto parts store. Not hard to do.

Problem is you need to be on a straight section of tube. Looks like you would have to cut about 2-3 inches to get past the existing bend. Is there enough slack in the lines to get that 2-3 inches back? Don't forget to put the fitting on before you flare.
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:11 AM   #17
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Talking lines

Steve,
I was looking at your picture, if the lines are ok other than being twisted off, you can cut them off, and re flair them. if they are a bit short you can put in a connector and a short piece of line.
I bet you could do that for under $10.00
I should mention you will need a flairing tool ( it can be borrowed from a mechanic friend or rented from autozone or the like) get a "double Flair" kit if you can, its better
just put the fittings on the line BEFORE you flair them ( don't ask) HA, LOL.
ol' George
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
One question on the trans...should I re-plumb the setup so the aux cooler is the only cooler or should I cool in the aux first then run it through the radiator?
If you are going to only use 1 cooler it has to be the radiator cooler. If you use both run it through the radiator first then the external cooler.

I am not a real fan of stacking coolers in front of the radiator, it slows airflow and makes it a major job to clean them. In radiator coolers for the trans are ok, but these engines run pretty warm (heavy loading, poor airflow, and a non-locking convertor) and the engine oil needs to stay outside the radiator.

John
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:48 AM   #19
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Steven,
When I pulled my radiator and had it recored, it was a no-brainer to replace the waterpump. Considering the condition of your belts, one could reasonably assume that your waterpump is next, sooner or later.
Just something to consider ...
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:51 AM   #20
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I'm not sure I understand the difference between a single flare and a double. The lines have what look like a "T" in the line. There is also a small rubber o-ring in the radiator. It looks like the fitting compresses the line into the o-ring.

PeterH - I'm with you all the way. I replaced the water pump while I had everything off, play in the pully, way too easy to turn, all the usual suspects.

Here's a pic:
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Old 08-28-2003, 07:10 AM   #21
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Single flare you will see the edge of the tube on the outside of the flare. Double flare folds it back inside (the largest part of the flare will be a fold in the metal). These are used for the compression and sealing of the two layers (higher pressures like brakes). If you have an o ring it is entirely different. Take the fitting to where you have the lines made, they will be able to match.

John
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Old 08-28-2003, 07:15 AM   #22
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Ok skip the double flare. That's a different flare alltogether. Not sure what they call that one. Hit Sears and find somebody in the tool department that has a clue and show them that flare. They should have to tool to do it. May just be an nipple adaptor for a standard flaring tool.

Alternative #2 if you can't find the right flare tool is find a brass adaptor that will go from that style fitting to a double flare.
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Old 08-28-2003, 07:25 AM   #23
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For your future reference if you do want to move the coolers (I really don't like stacked coolers). I moved my trans and oil coolers behind the rh headlight with ducts and fans like Brett mentioned. I changed from 2 round to 4 rectangular headlights, sealed around the ducts so all air had to go through the ducts. Your grille is wider than mine so airflow will be easier to get.

John
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Old 08-28-2003, 07:39 AM   #24
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fan clutch

While you have things apart...I would recommend checking the condition of your fan clutch....I replaced mine and here in Florida it sure made a difference in reducing temps especially at slower speeds....lol...jem
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Old 08-28-2003, 08:02 AM   #25
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John, very nice! I hope my fabrication skills match yours someday. I can see me doing something like what you've done in the near future.

I've checked the fan clutch as recommended and it seems to be in working order. My issue has not been cooling at low speed/idle cooling (runs 180 - 190 when below 30 mph OSAT 80 degrees) it's when I'm at speed (210 - 220 level) and climbing (225 +). I'd like to see her below 200 if possible at cruise leaving me room for the climbs.

Also, I looked closer at that fitting and it does appear to be a "flaired" flange, almost like it was crushed into a flange about a half an inch from the end. Heading to Tractor Supply at lunch and have a call into my buddy at the heavy equipment place.

BTW - Thanks a ton for all of this advice. I really don't know how people did this before this forum!
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Old 08-28-2003, 08:36 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by swebster@myrvadvanta
John, very nice! I hope my fabrication skills match yours someday. I can see me doing something like what you've done in the near future.

I've checked the fan clutch as recommended and it seems to be in working order. My issue has not been cooling at low speed/idle cooling (runs 180 - 190 when below 30 mph OSAT 80 degrees) it's when I'm at speed (210 - 220 level) and climbing (225 +). I'd like to see her below 200 if possible at cruise leaving me room for the climbs.

Also, I looked closer at that fitting and it does appear to be a "flaired" flange, almost like it was crushed into a flange about a half an inch from the end. Heading to Tractor Supply at lunch and have a call into my buddy at the heavy equipment place.

BTW - Thanks a ton for all of this advice. I really don't know how people did this before this forum!
Thats the problem I just got done fixing on my 88 Burb. Sounds like a plugged up radiator to me.
Going down the hwy with the A/C on I would creep up to around 215-220. It held it but as soon as I got off the hwy I was introuble. THrow it in neutral and turn off the A/C. If I didn't run the A/C I did ok. Now I did have an issue with the replacement fan clutch I put on was as bad as the one I replaced. Thanks for selling quaility parts Auto Zone!

New fan clutch and new radiator and now it's fine. Getting off the hwy and idling in gear I may get to 215 but once the Aux fan kicks in (it's active at about 215) it holds it. I'm looking for a thermo switch that comes on around 200. On the hwy it runs 200-205, might tickle 210 on a long hill. That's what GM says it should run. My truck has Fuel injection and runs a 195 degree thermostat. running too low of stat would cause the Air pump to become active and possibly go into open loop. Both would cause run problems on my truck.

With your not having Fuel injection I would go with a 180 thermostat. You really want to runn around 180-200 range. That actually helps keep the oil clean by getting any moisture in the oil to vaporize and get sucked out by the PCV.
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:09 PM   #27
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OK...been to three places and no one can (or is willing to) make new lines up for me. I did however find out what the part numbers are...so if anyone else needs to replace these here it is:

Upper Oil Cooler Line: GM 14051374
Lower Oil Cooler Line: GM 14054377 (discontinued but may be available from Workhorse...I'm checking)
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Old 08-28-2003, 02:57 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by swebster@myrvadvanta
OK...been to three places and no one can (or is willing to) make new lines up for me. I did however find out what the part numbers are...so if anyone else needs to replace these here it is:

Upper Oil Cooler Line: GM 14051374
Lower Oil Cooler Line: GM 14054377 (discontinued but may be available from Workhorse...I'm checking)
http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

Hmm checked and not available there either. Had good luck with them in the past.
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