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Old 01-03-2003, 11:26 AM   #1
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1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
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Ode to a starter

My starter solenoid fried in July and I replaced the starter unit. Re wired and insulated the wires near the manifold. All was fine UNTILon my trip to the Gulf coast this past week the solenoid on the new starter fried also. Turned the key got nothing- rolled underneath and the top of the solenoid was a goner.
Looking into heat shields now. I have seen the heat sheild for the solenoid only - it screws onto the small sol. screws-- also a thermal wrap fpr the whole starter, and the "can type" that cover the starter top. Any ideas?
Also should I go to the mini-torque starter?Some have discussed this option in the past. I am considering the "mean green" heat proof starter- but at close to 300 bucks I am a bit hesitant.
Other than that we had a terrific trip!! 65mph and almost 10mpg on the way home. Running valvoline synth-blend oil seems to have made some positive difference.
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Old 01-03-2003, 12:57 PM   #2
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The "mean Green" is a good starter. I've used it on a couple of big block muscle cars in the past. But you're right about the cost! You didn't mention whether or not the replacement starter was a rebuilt unit or new. A lot of "rebuilt" units are mostly just cleaned units, and subsequently, the life span is short.

You might end up spending nearly as much for a new unit when you incorporate the cost of your previous one. If you go the mean green route, you probably won't ever have problems again. Besides, the mean green is much easier to install.

Be sure to still insulate it. Its cheap insurance!

Good luck!


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Old 01-03-2003, 04:57 PM   #3
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A heat shield for sure that covers as much of the starter and solenoid as you can. BB Chevy's are notorious for heat soak in the starter. The OEM starter comes in a high torque version and it usually is only $25 or 30 more than a standard starter, probably from a parts parts place or rebuilder. Auto Zone is all over and the ones around here don't require you to keep receipts for their lifetime exchange, nice when you are on the road.

John
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:17 PM   #4
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ALANSD
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM I ORDERED A WRAP FROM CAMPING WORLD AND PROBLEM HASNT RETURNED. I ALSO BOUGHT A AUTOZONE STARTER IN CASE IT DOES . STRAIGHT EXCHANGE NO COST TO YOU . I THINK THE STARTER WAS $35 THE WRAP WAS ALMOST THE SAME. CAN CHANGE THAT ONE OUT A BUNCH OF TIMES BEFORE I WOULD THINK ABOUT A $350 GREEN MACHINE STARTER.
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Old 01-03-2003, 08:35 PM   #5
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I did install the mean green, it has an amazing sound to it, only started a dozen times before putting away for winter. still had very minor drag when hot, but cables are corroded.
I also read somewhere that they put a switch on ignition coil, so if it has advanced timing or high compression, it has a chance to get up to speed before turning on ignition.
barry
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Old 01-04-2003, 07:33 AM   #6
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Thanks all- I think I will go with the high torque starter and a heat wrap. I found a thermo-tec wrap that looks pretty good. Overall it will still be 30% of the mean green's cost.
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Old 01-07-2003, 09:11 AM   #7
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starter?

what do you think about a starter like this? I am a bit confused by the mounting plate, but it is for BB chevys.
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Old 01-07-2003, 09:26 AM   #8
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The plate on mine flipped to fit the various mount patterns. There should be instructions or pull the starter and line the gears up then flip the plate so the mount holes line up.

John
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Old 01-07-2003, 10:41 AM   #9
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I agree. The plate should fit the various bell housings out there. Regarding the earlier post reporting a slight drag with the mean green, I think it will go away once you replace the cables. A quick and easy way to check for corrosion is to remove the cables and put them in a bucket with water and a bunch of baking soda. If it foams up, then you've got dirty cables. The baking soda does an admirable job of removing some corrosion, but it can't get everything under the plastic sheathing, so replacement is the way to go.


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Old 01-07-2003, 10:55 AM   #10
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If the cables don't help the drag, shim it, they are shown in the kit in Allen's post. If there is a grinding ring when cranking there is not enough clearance and it will eat the ring gear up in a short time.

John
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