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01-25-2003, 06:55 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 60
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new furance or ceiling airconditioner with heat?
i would like to put a heater of some kind in my 1966 overlander the furnice that was in there is gone should i put in a new furnace or should i buy a celing airconditioner with the heater in it?
the a/c that is in there now is locked up,the fan motor will not turn i think that the whole unit might be burnt up.
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01-25-2003, 07:56 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 949
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striker,
You will be better off replacing your existing furnace. Trying to heat your A/S with a new rooftop unit with either heat strips or heat pump will put you at a disadvantage if you ever want to do some boondocking. I had the heat strip package on my last two rv's, my Argosy and a slide-in camper and they would not keep them warm and don't think they were really meant to. They are for supplemental heat only. It is also better with the original style furnace placement to get the heat from down low, we all know that hot air rises. I am not sure about the heat for the tanks and pipes on your model, on my 74 model the furnace also heats the tanks and plumbing, another thing to think about. Now if you plan on staying in pretty much one place all the time you could probably get by with just some sort of ceramic or catalytic heater and a few strategically placed lightbulbs.
Chas
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01-25-2003, 08:23 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1967 22' Safari
clarkston
, Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 52
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new funace or ceiling....
It may be important to keep the black tank housing in the forced hot air circulation loop. Extreme cold could lead to the formation of "hard to dump" frozen formations. (Search "poopsicles")!
Check to see if there is or should be a duct hose from the rearmost plennum to the front most black tank housing. (Half the size of a dryer duct).
This may also help keep our plumbing pipes warm back in the rear bath of our 67 Safari.
We try to keep antifreeze in shower P-trap on colder nites.
Our furnace system serves well when not hooked to dyna-shore power. But we don't plan to boondock in the great white north, yet we had single digit temps at this southernly Atlantitude and Atlongitude!!!
I had to pull our furnace to tweek the Sail Switch, Search "furnace problems" for repair options.
Amazed by the awesome genius of retractable, spring loaded, ball bearing dowel pins on the bottom of our vertical counter support, no need to break the vertical counter support to pull our furnace! Good luck on whatever you all decide to do!
Todd & Marlo
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01-25-2003, 08:34 PM
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#4
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Retired Moderator
1992 29' Excella
madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,644
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furnace
striker
go for the furnace, i've got both furnace and heat strip.
a heat strip alone will not cut it in wisconsin. even during a mild winter.
the heat strip is a nice feature to take a chill out of the trailer. but that is all.
john
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01-26-2003, 09:36 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 74
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retractable dowel pins
Todd & Marlo,
I am in the middle of rebuilding the counter area of my Argosy Minuet, and your comment below sounded very interesting. Could you explain what you mean here?
Thanks,
Jim
Amazed by the awesome genius of retractable, spring loaded, ball bearing dowel pins on the bottom of our vertical counter support, no need to break the vertical counter support to pull our furnace! Good luck on whatever you all decide to do!
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01-26-2003, 10:03 AM
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#6
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30 yr Airstreamer
2018 16' Sport
Port Townsend
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 72
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Determine need, then decide
Which are you going to need more? If you only spring/summer camp and stay in full hookup sites you may be using your roof air more. I agree with the other posters about heat strips. They will only suffice in moderate weather. No way will they be sufficient in WI winter conditions. A full gas furnace will work great all year round. You could also go with a propane Catalytic heater. These put out a goodly amount of heat and are cheaper than a replacement furnace.
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