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Old 11-23-2009, 06:39 AM   #21
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Glenn,
You put headers on yourmh right? Will they bolt up to my exhaust pipes or do I have to do the whole system at once?Price for headers?
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:59 AM   #22
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Gypsy, not sure what you have for an exhaust system.

The Headman MoHo headers come with reducers to take the collector 3" down to 2.5". Don't be tempted to go all the way back with 3" as this will reduce back pressure too much.

The reducers get welded to your existing system going back to the mufflers.

Some folks have added an H to balance as does Doug Thorley Headers but I've not found this to be required.

I swapped out my mufflers for Flowmaster 70's.

I have a couple of bends in the right hand bank rear pipe so that it can cross over top of the driveshaft and dump out on the road side just ahead of the drive axle with the left side bank.

Of course I added the Chevy bowtie tips just for grins.

Check Summit for prices on Headman and others. I've found Headman the best price and ceramic coated is my choice.
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:18 AM   #23
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fuel injection in stead of carb.

I know that replacing engines, etc. can get expensive. What has been said about doing the fuel injection is in my opinion the way to go. I helped a friend put in a newer Corvette engine into a C3 Corvette that originally had a carb. The upgrade into the fuel injection and computer setup gave him an increase in mpg and even performance since his old engine was a low hp.

We used a wiring harness from Painless Wiring and did some changes to meet our needs.

I am with those that say do things locally for various reasons. I understand the OEM engines from any auto maker are very good engines. My youngest son and I used to drag race a 56 Ford Victoria. We put a 429 engine in with a RV cam, other performance upgrades and we really liked the engines performance. I would say to make sure and do the RV cam style. As most things go the more a person increases hp/performance the mpg goes out the window. Might consider a MSD type ignition spark box, etc.

Good luck with your engine swap, I look forward to hearing what you eventually do.
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:23 AM   #24
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There are many good transmission rebuilders all over the country, and many of them belong to what amounts to a "co-op", where one shop will take care of another shop's warranty on your transmission while you're out of town. Maybe a local shop can take care of it, while giving you a nationwide warranty.
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Old 11-23-2009, 07:28 AM   #25
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Glenn I was reading through your thread in it you mentioned that both of your headers had cracked within acouple of years of installing.Why ,Do they come with guarantee?I have dual exhaust with what looks like newer mufflers 2 1/2 " pipes I think haven't measured.Headers easy enough to put on with engine installed?
I know fuel injection would probably mean better gas mileage but I think for now not in the budget and not sure I could do the install.
Terry got a quote for a bench build on my tranny $1500. Tranny i have I am not to confident in don't know too much about it It pours fluid out It shifted ok but have only driven it afew blocks also when pulled to where I am 60 miles they left the drive line hooked up.So am thinking a new rebuild would be the way to go.Also pretty sure everything has been real HOT.
Glenn thats not your engine is it?
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Old 11-23-2009, 12:21 PM   #26
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Well called the local gm dealer about engine and tranny.H e said ,parts guy, that my engine and tranny were discontinued and they could rebuild them there. Could not give an exact price on tranny rebuild $2000 best guessDidn't get into engine price because am pretty sure I will going with Jasper for Jasper to do my tranny they would have to pick it up and take it back rebuild and bring back didn't ask about time line their price is also around $2000.Also called a local tranny shop they could not even give me a ball park figure said they would need it on their bench?
Any thoughts .
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Old 11-23-2009, 03:23 PM   #27
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Gypsy, no that's not my engine in the photos. LOL!!

Headman do warranty their headers. Not sure what the issues are but remember I put Airstream One to some interesting uses. Like everything in your driveline you want it lined up. I suspect I could have better in my exhaust system.

The Flowmasters are HEAVY!

Headers are easy to hook up after installation of the block in the frame.

I agree with the fuel injection being the last in the budget line item. It's not the best gain of economy for the use we put them to.

The best ideas are to figure your use. How many miles per year? What kind of driving? From there you can calculate your return on investment. I can get mine to pay due to driving about 20-25K a year minimum. Your ROI may vary.
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Old 11-23-2009, 06:41 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
There are many good transmission rebuilders all over the country, and many of them belong to what amounts to a "co-op", where one shop will take care of another shop's warranty on your transmission while you're out of town. Maybe a local shop can take care of it, while giving you a nationwide warranty.
Terry hit on a VERY important issue here. I've got a real long and frustrating story I could tell about using a local shop that is not part of the ATRA (Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association) co-op but I don't have the time or energy to type out a 100 page dissertation .

Bottom line is you definitely get what you pay for when it comes to quality and warranty on rebuilt transmissions. We tried to save money and it ended up costing us a lot more in the end.

So heed Terry's advice .

Brad
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:29 PM   #29
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Chevy is putting out 500+cu crate engines. Same engine mounts as the 454.

Str8stream put one into his 34 footer and is very happy with the torque and hp.
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:09 AM   #30
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Havesome more phone calls to make about transmission chevy dealer in Kingman is an option I think.Need to find out about warranty Jasper doing rebuild is another option need to find out turn around time. Don't have a lot of confidence in local shops one used to be good but it has changed owners.Right now plans are to go back with original stuff intake,exhaust I can upgrade as I go.What about a new distributor ?
As for mileage I don't know have been stationary for a few years hope to hit the road again when Argosy is ready .Then I hope to put a lot of miles on her.Looking back at old records did 5000 miles in about 4 months that was just cruising around not really going any place in particular. So I would say somewhere between 10,000 and 20,000 miles per year.
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Old 11-24-2009, 01:43 PM   #31
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Just look at all the options. I just mentioned Jasper because of their reputation. The last engine I did(HAD DONE) was a 302 Ford. I looked at Jasper and then found a local Engine builder (race car engines) and a local shop to pull it and go thru the tranny while they had it out. I had then rebuild my block,from the casting out.We replaced everything Crank, Cam,Checked the heads and ground the valves, The replaced the water pump and new belts and hoses. Total was about $1500 OUT and IN. All this was done while I worked. I would probably do it again the same way If I could find a similar circumstances.
I still own that truck and it still runs great,142 K miles on the chasis and 35 k on the motor now.
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Jo
Total was about $1500 OUT and IN.
If that is parts and labor if so i am calling shops tomorrow.
As I read back over the thread I realized a lot of you mentioned local rebuild ,race ,shops tomorrow or Mon. I will call some of them.
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:33 AM   #33
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Joe, now you're talking. Do a google search and you'll find lots of engine rebuilders. There's bound to be somebody who you'll like at first meeting. I had originally found a shop in eastern GA who do high performance stuff but it ended up being too far away when the time came.

Look for a shop that's clean and organized. It's the first sign of things done right. The right place will look like a lab not a garage.

Keep your eyes open for local hotroders and ask them who is building engines.

Figure out what you want before you start so as to control your final costs.
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:49 AM   #34
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Look for a shop that's clean and organized. It's the first sign of things done right. The right place will look like a lab not a garage.
Glen, you are SO right in your statement above. In rebuilding engines and transmissions having a clean Lab like shop area makes a huge difference. A friend of mine builds Sprint car engines for a living and he has a special sealed off room in his shop that is used for only one purpose, building engines.

Needless to say he is the preferred builder in town.

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Old 12-02-2009, 07:48 AM   #35
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I understand that the 502 crate motor from GM is about 18k - but what a motor it is....

You may be able to get the 496 (8.1 liter) as a crate motor much cheaper.

Both of these motors are direct bolt up. Its the nice thing about GM

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Old 12-02-2009, 09:25 AM   #36
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I have a few engine rebuilders in Las vegas I need to check out . There is a guy in Kingman I can talk to but he has had some health issues lately.Thanks for all the help.
Other than an rv cam I don't know what else I could use to make gas mileage, power better.Am going to be doing transmission too.
Brad If I remember you said if I got the numbers you could tell me about it.They are:
77cl 251 8
77-334
18k for a motor ,in my dreams,.
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:00 AM   #37
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Wrong letter on tranny info should be
77CN 251 8
77-334
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:46 AM   #38
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I have a few engine rebuilders in Las vegas I need to check out . There is a guy in Kingman I can talk to but he has had some health issues lately.Thanks for all the help.
Other than an rv cam I don't know what else I could use to make gas mileage, power better.Am going to be doing transmission too.
Brad If I remember you said if I got the numbers you could tell me about it.They are:
77cl 251 8
77-334
18k for a motor ,in my dreams,.
Jo
Joe, you need to get the mass rolling with the least amount of energy spent. That means low end grunt. Torque is key.
You also want to burn more gas... that is to say more of it in the combustion process. The big motor dumps a lot of unused fuel into the exhaust. That's why multi spark boxes like MSD are a plus.
Then there's cold air in and hot air out. You want the most coming in and a modicum of resistance coming out.

Proper air pressure in the tires and a patient foot will do lots to help you improve mileage.

Last year when fuel was $4 a gallon I modified my driving habits in the Benz and saw a 10% gain in fuel economy. It's quite amazing what you can do to help your numbers just by watching the vacuum gage. Feather foot could be my name.

I've toyed with a bumper sticker for the back of the bus.

"I can push harder on the gas pedal if you'll buy the gas"
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:11 PM   #39
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I don't really go fast I just like to do the speed limit.Not having driven the Argosy I don't know what she will do. From the posts I've read it doesn't sound like any lack of power more at issue is gas mileage .
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Old 12-02-2009, 01:11 PM   #40
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I'm not sure if this will help, but try contacting:

Genes Engine Service
21431 N 23rd Ave
Phoenix, AZ85027
623-582-0373

I searched the net for a respectable builder in the Phoenix area and this guy seem to be a preferred business. Good Luck.
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