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gunner · 03-31-2006, 07:37 AM

For those of you that have installed the front/rear/water heater water line shutoffs, I have the following questions:
Did you place the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse between the Engine water heater outlets and the "Y" where the water lines seperate for the front heater and the rear/water heater?
Or did you locate the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse after the "Y" and only shutoff the rear/water heater?
Or what other alternatives did you come up with?
For all situations what shutoffs did you purchase, size and where did you locate them? Do you shut them off in the summer to keep the coach cooler and how did that affect Engine temperature?
Thanks for your replies,

PeterH-350LE · 03-31-2006, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunner

.......
For all situations what shutoffs did you purchase, size and where did you locate them? Do you shut them off in the summer to keep the coach cooler and how did that affect Engine temperature?
Thanks for your replies,

No rear heater in my coach, but for my front heater, i used a shutoff easy available at any plumbing supply store and its easy to operate (does not freeze up).
Yes, driving in the hot summer month with the heater cores closed will cause the engine to run hotter.

gunner · 03-31-2006, 04:49 PM

My assumption is you just wanted to keep the heat out of the interior during the summer or shut it off if you had a hose burst on the road but for that you would need two shutoffs. Thanks for your reply, I am still hoping for a reply from all of the 345 owners that have the rear heater and water heater using the engine heater hoses and installed shutoffs to provide me guidance.

One other question I have what is the Warn: (0%) under my profile? I did have two rivets at one time but I had to reregister since the system did not recognize me anymore and I am now listed as a new member.

swebster · 03-31-2006, 05:36 PM

Gunner,
Welcome back. The "warn" is new and something only you see for your profile. There is a thread somewhere around here about how it works...but basically 0% mean you have no warnings so don't worry about it.

I have a 345 with the rear heater. I completely removed the line to this heater after they burst. I would consider adding it back in but would plan independant shutoff valves for the front heater and the rear.

You are correct about the "why" - to completelty disconnect the heaters in summer (it makes a big difference) and to isolate these vulnerable systems in the event of a hose bursting while enroute.

GlenCoombe · 03-31-2006, 05:58 PM

If you're concerned about higher engine temps in summer with the shutoffs closed "Y" not install a cooler thermostat? Makes all the difference in the world.

noiva · 03-31-2006, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunner

For those of you that have installed the front/rear/water heater water line shutoffs, I have the following questions:
Did you place the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse between the Engine water heater outlets and the "Y" where the water lines separate for the front heater and the rear/water heater?
Or did you locate the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse after the "Y" and only shutoff the rear/water heater?
Or what other alternatives did you come up with?
For all situations what shutoffs did you purchase, size and where did you locate them? Do you shut them off in the summer to keep the coach cooler and how did that affect Engine temperature?
Thanks for your replies,

I put shutoffs on my 370 about 2 months ago when I replaced all the water hoses to both front and rear heaters. I put them in the hoses before the "Y" in the sending and return lines under the doghouse close to the engine. That was to be able to completely shut off the water to both just in case either decided to spring a leak. I purchased my shutoffs at a NAPA store. They have a screw type wing fitting that turns to a complete stop. They were rather pricey, but I feel so much better now about potential leaks. I haven't tried running the coach yet with the valves off, but I will soon just to see if things run hotter. I've already put a lower temp thermostat that has really helped bring the temps down about 20-25 degrees. I like PeterH's valves a little better than mine because they're simple and easy to operate (cheaper too

). I wish I had thought of those

, but it's not critical. I did put grease on the shutoff threads so they wouldn't rust open (or shut). I can send you pics or part numbers if you would like, but I think PeterH's pic just about shows what you probably were looking for.
Hope this helps.

Best,

gunner · 04-01-2006, 06:38 AM

Thanks for all of the replies. I like Peter's shutoffs, just a quarter turn shuts it off. I did look at the catalogs and was somewhat surprised by the max temperature of 160 F that even some of the brass valves are rated for. I need to make sure I purchase Brass valves with a higher allowable temperature rating. I assume Peter purchased barb fittings that screw into the valves for the hoses. Normally in the automotive world one of the hoses is 5/8" and the other 3/4". Is this the case with the motorhomes? I have already installed a lower rating thermostat.

noiva · 04-01-2006, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunner

Thanks for all of the replies. I like Peter's shutoffs, just a quarter turn shuts it off. I did look at the catalogs and was somewhat surprised by the max temperature of 160 F that even some of the brass valves are rated for. I need to make sure I purchase Brass valves with a higher allowable temperature rating. I assume Peter purchased barb fittings that screw into the valves for the hoses. Normally in the automotive world one of the hoses is 5/8" and the other 3/4". Is this the case with the motorhomes? I have already installed a lower rating thermostat.

I can't speak to the size of the hoses in the Chevy 454, but the Ford 460 in my 370 MoHo had all 5/8". I wasn't aware of the temperature ratings on Peter's valves, if that's true; but I do know the valves I purchased at NAPA were for big trucks, and automotive by design. If you have any concerns about temps, you may be better off spending that extra money. Of course, since Peter apparently hasn't had any temp problems with his valves, that may not be a concern.

Best,

gunner · 04-01-2006, 03:53 PM

The brass valves according to the catalog meet different temperatures based on costs and internal mechanical components. I am sure Peter's valves meet the requirements, I just didn't realize that I had to make sure of the temperature rating. I thought all brass valves would meet the Engine temperature requirements.

str8strm · 07-16-2006, 05:45 PM

We are going to put shut offs in our 345 what did you use and what was the source? It was a future project til we developed a small leak on the way home today. Didn't someone say it takes about 50 feet of the 5/8 hose. I did a search but can't find that thread? Debbie

noiva · 07-16-2006, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by str8strm

We are going to put shut offs in our 345 what did you use and what was the source? It was a future project til we developed a small leak on the way home today. Didn't someone say it takes about 50 feet of the 5/8 hose. I did a search but can't find that thread? Debbie

Debbie,

Here's the thread I started after I did the shut-offs. http://www.airforums.com/forum...ent-20141.html I think my first post may be helpful with some of your questions, but if you need any further info., please let me know. Your 345 has just about the same heater setup as the 370, so the items and methods should be very similar. Don't forget to change to a 160 degree thermostat if you have ANY concerns about your present running temps

. Glen Coombe can attest to the benefits also. It's the best heat control I've done to my unit. Just got back today from almost 300 miles with outdoor temps in the mid 90s. Averaged about 200 degrees in the engine running just about 60 mph with the dash AC providing all the cooling in the coach. Gear Vendors under/overdrive is waiting in the garage for installation (hopefully

) this week. My rear axle is a 5.29, so I need to slow this rpm down.

Best,

str8strm · 07-17-2006, 12:53 PM

Thanks we got our gear vendor going about 4 months ago. Its about 600 rpm less and really rolls---too easy to look down and be going 75!!

noiva · 07-17-2006, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by str8strm

Thanks we got our gear vendor going about 4 months ago. Its about 600 rpm less and really rolls---too easy to look down and be going 75!!

Glad to hear about your experience with the gear vendors. I don't really need to do 75

, but 65 would be nice. Did that link work for you? I just clicked it and went right back to the main Forum page.

Timotreous · 05-21-2013, 09:01 PM

Hey friends, in my search for cab AC answers I came across this thread and the "valve" question. I also have a valve there that I was unsure about. Mine is just a twist knob like you might see on a outside spigot. From what I have read, my cab AC might blow colder if I close this?? (which I will try in the morning) And at the same time it might (will) raise my engine temp?

There have been several mentions about installing a cooler thermostat to help lower the engine temp. I'm not a big engine components type of guy but can figure things out when I have great mentors...and instructions! Could someone explain to me (pics?) how a thermostat actually cools the engine and where it is located. I would totally replace mine if its a job I can do and does the trick. Which one would you recommend. Does it just turn the fan on more often?

92landyacht · 05-22-2013, 08:07 AM

Simply put, the thermostat is a valve that controls the flow of coolant to the radiator based on the temperature of the coolant. Once the water reaches a set threshold temp. the thermostat opens up and allows the coolant to flow. If the temperature drops too low the thermostat begins to close and restrict flow. The thermostat on a 454 Chevy is located under water neck that connects the upper radiator hose to the engine. Here's a video that may help:

How to replace your thermostat

Timotreous · 05-22-2013, 05:10 PM

Great! Thanks 92Landyacht! That helps a ton. I guess I will go with the 160 degree unit from autozone then.

Failsafe/Thermostat (7200-160) | 1981 Chevrolet P30 Van 8 Cylinders W 7.4L 4BL | AutoZone.com

Are there any disandvantages to using a lower temp unit?

92landyacht · 05-24-2013, 06:55 AM

No issues on an early model carbureted engine.

Timotreous · 05-25-2013, 12:56 PM

Hey Thanks for your help. I replaced the thermostat like a few of you suggested for a 160 temp one. The learning curve for someone who doesn't know much about engines is STEEP. I found its home and did the replacement with the cheap gasket and found that when replacing this part you have to clean clean clean the two metal pieces that go bolt back together. I had to do this 3 three times before being leak free. I also upgraded to the premium rubber gasket and thermostat gasket sealant. Leak free and in working order. Thanks for the explanation and video link too. It helped!