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Old 03-31-2006, 08:37 AM   #1
Gunter
 
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Motorhome Heater Line Shutoffs

For those of you that have installed the front/rear/water heater water line shutoffs, I have the following questions:
Did you place the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse between the Engine water heater outlets and the "Y" where the water lines seperate for the front heater and the rear/water heater?
Or did you locate the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse after the "Y" and only shutoff the rear/water heater?
Or what other alternatives did you come up with?
For all situations what shutoffs did you purchase, size and where did you locate them? Do you shut them off in the summer to keep the coach cooler and how did that affect Engine temperature?
Thanks for your replies,
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Old 03-31-2006, 08:48 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner
.......
For all situations what shutoffs did you purchase, size and where did you locate them? Do you shut them off in the summer to keep the coach cooler and how did that affect Engine temperature?
Thanks for your replies,

No rear heater in my coach, but for my front heater, i used a shutoff easy available at any plumbing supply store and its easy to operate (does not freeze up).
Yes, driving in the hot summer month with the heater cores closed will cause the engine to run hotter.
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Old 03-31-2006, 05:49 PM   #3
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My assumption is you just wanted to keep the heat out of the interior during the summer or shut it off if you had a hose burst on the road but for that you would need two shutoffs. Thanks for your reply, I am still hoping for a reply from all of the 345 owners that have the rear heater and water heater using the engine heater hoses and installed shutoffs to provide me guidance.

One other question I have what is the Warn: (0%) under my profile? I did have two rivets at one time but I had to reregister since the system did not recognize me anymore and I am now listed as a new member.
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Old 03-31-2006, 06:36 PM   #4
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Gunner,
Welcome back. The "warn" is new and something only you see for your profile. There is a thread somewhere around here about how it works...but basically 0% mean you have no warnings so don't worry about it.

I have a 345 with the rear heater. I completely removed the line to this heater after they burst. I would consider adding it back in but would plan independant shutoff valves for the front heater and the rear.

You are correct about the "why" - to completelty disconnect the heaters in summer (it makes a big difference) and to isolate these vulnerable systems in the event of a hose bursting while enroute.
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Old 03-31-2006, 06:58 PM   #5
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If you're concerned about higher engine temps in summer with the shutoffs closed "Y" not install a cooler thermostat? Makes all the difference in the world.
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Old 03-31-2006, 07:32 PM   #6
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shutoffs

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner
For those of you that have installed the front/rear/water heater water line shutoffs, I have the following questions:
Did you place the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse between the Engine water heater outlets and the "Y" where the water lines separate for the front heater and the rear/water heater?
Or did you locate the shutoffs under the Engine doghouse after the "Y" and only shutoff the rear/water heater?
Or what other alternatives did you come up with?
For all situations what shutoffs did you purchase, size and where did you locate them? Do you shut them off in the summer to keep the coach cooler and how did that affect Engine temperature?
Thanks for your replies,
I put shutoffs on my 370 about 2 months ago when I replaced all the water hoses to both front and rear heaters. I put them in the hoses before the "Y" in the sending and return lines under the doghouse close to the engine. That was to be able to completely shut off the water to both just in case either decided to spring a leak. I purchased my shutoffs at a NAPA store. They have a screw type wing fitting that turns to a complete stop. They were rather pricey, but I feel so much better now about potential leaks. I haven't tried running the coach yet with the valves off, but I will soon just to see if things run hotter. I've already put a lower temp thermostat that has really helped bring the temps down about 20-25 degrees. I like PeterH's valves a little better than mine because they're simple and easy to operate (cheaper too ). I wish I had thought of those , but it's not critical. I did put grease on the shutoff threads so they wouldn't rust open (or shut). I can send you pics or part numbers if you would like, but I think PeterH's pic just about shows what you probably were looking for.
Hope this helps.

Best,
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Old 04-01-2006, 07:38 AM   #7
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Thanks for all of the replies. I like Peter's shutoffs, just a quarter turn shuts it off. I did look at the catalogs and was somewhat surprised by the max temperature of 160 F that even some of the brass valves are rated for. I need to make sure I purchase Brass valves with a higher allowable temperature rating. I assume Peter purchased barb fittings that screw into the valves for the hoses. Normally in the automotive world one of the hoses is 5/8" and the other 3/4". Is this the case with the motorhomes? I have already installed a lower rating thermostat.
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Old 04-01-2006, 07:56 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner
Thanks for all of the replies. I like Peter's shutoffs, just a quarter turn shuts it off. I did look at the catalogs and was somewhat surprised by the max temperature of 160 F that even some of the brass valves are rated for. I need to make sure I purchase Brass valves with a higher allowable temperature rating. I assume Peter purchased barb fittings that screw into the valves for the hoses. Normally in the automotive world one of the hoses is 5/8" and the other 3/4". Is this the case with the motorhomes? I have already installed a lower rating thermostat.
I can't speak to the size of the hoses in the Chevy 454, but the Ford 460 in my 370 MoHo had all 5/8". I wasn't aware of the temperature ratings on Peter's valves, if that's true; but I do know the valves I purchased at NAPA were for big trucks, and automotive by design. If you have any concerns about temps, you may be better off spending that extra money. Of course, since Peter apparently hasn't had any temp problems with his valves, that may not be a concern.

Best,
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Old 04-01-2006, 04:53 PM   #9
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The brass valves according to the catalog meet different temperatures based on costs and internal mechanical components. I am sure Peter's valves meet the requirements, I just didn't realize that I had to make sure of the temperature rating. I thought all brass valves would meet the Engine temperature requirements.
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Old 07-16-2006, 06:45 PM   #10
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What did you end up using?

We are going to put shut offs in our 345 what did you use and what was the source? It was a future project til we developed a small leak on the way home today. Didn't someone say it takes about 50 feet of the 5/8 hose. I did a search but can't find that thread? Debbie
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Old 07-16-2006, 09:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by str8strm
We are going to put shut offs in our 345 what did you use and what was the source? It was a future project til we developed a small leak on the way home today. Didn't someone say it takes about 50 feet of the 5/8 hose. I did a search but can't find that thread? Debbie
Debbie,

Here's the thread I started after I did the shut-offs. http://www.airforums.com/forum...ent-20141.html I think my first post may be helpful with some of your questions, but if you need any further info., please let me know. Your 345 has just about the same heater setup as the 370, so the items and methods should be very similar. Don't forget to change to a 160 degree thermostat if you have ANY concerns about your present running temps . Glen Coombe can attest to the benefits also. It's the best heat control I've done to my unit. Just got back today from almost 300 miles with outdoor temps in the mid 90s. Averaged about 200 degrees in the engine running just about 60 mph with the dash AC providing all the cooling in the coach. Gear Vendors under/overdrive is waiting in the garage for installation (hopefully ) this week. My rear axle is a 5.29, so I need to slow this rpm down.

Best,
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Old 07-17-2006, 01:53 PM   #12
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Thanks we got our gear vendor going about 4 months ago. Its about 600 rpm less and really rolls---too easy to look down and be going 75!!
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Old 07-17-2006, 02:22 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by str8strm
Thanks we got our gear vendor going about 4 months ago. Its about 600 rpm less and really rolls---too easy to look down and be going 75!!
Glad to hear about your experience with the gear vendors. I don't really need to do 75 , but 65 would be nice. Did that link work for you? I just clicked it and went right back to the main Forum page.
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:01 PM   #14
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Hey friends, in my search for cab AC answers I came across this thread and the "valve" question. I also have a valve there that I was unsure about. Mine is just a twist knob like you might see on a outside spigot. From what I have read, my cab AC might blow colder if I close this?? (which I will try in the morning) And at the same time it might (will) raise my engine temp?

There have been several mentions about installing a cooler thermostat to help lower the engine temp. I'm not a big engine components type of guy but can figure things out when I have great mentors...and instructions! Could someone explain to me (pics?) how a thermostat actually cools the engine and where it is located. I would totally replace mine if its a job I can do and does the trick. Which one would you recommend. Does it just turn the fan on more often?
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