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Old 06-22-2015, 12:50 PM   #29
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MAYCO, broke down on the road need advice

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Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
That's a pretty exotic filter for our old Isuzu's. The original filter Airstream installed is the Racor 500 series. It is very popular in the marine world and is still manufactured today. The Isuzu also has a priming pump as part of the mechanical lift pump on the engine so an additional pump on the filter is not necessary. Also the Racor 500 series filter and the RK-12963 are mounted on the suction side of the pump and Racor recommends a vacuum gauge to determine when a replacement element is needed. As you mentioned a pressure gauge will monitor lift pump and filter condition but it will not tell you which is the problem.

The filter industry is massive as are the choices. I was running Racor filters on my boat before Airstream put a diesel in a motorhome. The important thing is that your engine only ingests clean fuel. How you do that isn't important as long as long as your engine gets as much clean fuel as it wants. The same can be said about the air it ingests.

The Cummins engines have a primer on the lift pump also. But it's a bitch to get at.

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The Racor is a really nice system for about $185. It will fill the filters and purge the entire system after a change reducing the chance of inducing crap while pre filling filters. It also has a water detection system. The original Winn/Racor system did the same but as I mentioned, is no longer supported.

The pressure gauge measures the pressure of the fuel being delivered to the HP pump. That's really the only thing that's important. If the pressure starts dropping off its time to replace the filters. If the pressure goes to 0 or gets erratic, the lift pump is probably shot. Low supply pressure or suction feeding will tear up a HP pump if you run it for an extended time.

The pump on the Racor is rated for continuous duty and can run if the lift pump fails to get you home.
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Old 06-22-2015, 04:37 PM   #30
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What are you driving?
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:09 PM   #31
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If you're asking me its an Airstream 310 with an Isuzu 6bd1A and an after market BAE turbo charger, 1982. Chevy p30 series chassis.
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Old 06-22-2015, 06:24 PM   #32
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I was thinking today that Ive read enough posts regarding the plastic bowl cracking on the OEM Racor 500fg, that it would probably a good idea for those who purchase an Airstream classic DIESEL MH to go ahead and replace the bowl just as you replace all the belts, hoses, etc.. If its the original bowl, that plastic is brittle and deteriorated. It could really shut you down on the road and its going to take a few days to get one delivered. Just like replacing as many rubber parts as you can when you purchase. I was lucky to be so close to home when it happened so the filter bypass was no big deal but sure wouldn't want to run it very long without the large particle filter and water separator. I remember someone here on the forum last fall had it happen in Florida while trying to get back to Texas. He jumped through all kinds of hoops trying to figure out how to deal with the cracked bowl. I think he ended up using some epoxy or something to patch it up. Anyway, might be good advice to someone who recently bought one of the turbo diesels. $50 for the replacement bowl with the bleeder included.

And thats my thought for today......

Mike
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:45 PM   #33
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Good advice! I've been wrenchin on things that fly float and run down the road for too many years. The best approach is to isolate the different systems and approach them one at a time. They are all really quite simple and manageable. Together they can seem overwhelming.

Take the fuel system for example. Start out making sure the tank is solid and clean. Next check the fuel lines, connections, couplers... Then the filters. Pumps... Most just chase problems as they manifest themselves.

Work on the greasy stuff first and the purdy stuff as time permits.

Sitting on that new dinette waiting for the tow truck just sucks!
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:03 PM   #34
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Just to reiterate as I may have raised the hackles of the diesel lovers in the bunch.....I did state that water is bad for diesels but 45 miles probably wouldn't kill it. Relax people.

Dan is right about the intial filtering being kinda a trash or pre filter. I've also heard that using an upper filter as a first filter will just give you trouble in the end and you'll be chainging it all the time as it clogs up.

Yes they do make preheat fuel filters and water separators as up north (way north) at -50C even the diesel antigell additives may not be enough. Dan is also right, camping in those temps maybe a tad uncomfortable.

Cheers
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I don't have the Racor in mine.....I have some bad a$$ water separator filter thats 8+" long in a totally steel housing with a steel bleed screw in the bottom. I forget the NAPA number.

Oh and you can imagine my shock when I went to change my front engine filter and only found two studs. It turned a PO had taken off the filter and relocated it to the lower frame rails where it's easy to access.
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Old 06-23-2015, 06:47 PM   #35
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When you have a chance Tony I'd (we) would love to see a picture of where he put that and the fuel lines. I was mentioning that to my wife as she helped me change that upper filter. Trooper she is. A second set of hands was helpful holding up on the canister to get the bolt started. I had changed it once before.

Here is a chuckle, after I had changed it the first time, I was trying to come up with some idea to make it easier to change. I had her give me one of her old bras, was gonna cut a whole in the cup for the head of the bolt, then slip it under the canister, grab both ends and pull up on it to hold the canister to get the bolt started..... havent had a chance to try that out yet!!! Thought you might enjoy some hillbilly engineering. Might work?

Mike
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:27 PM   #36
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Mike give your wife her bra back and just take the filter housing off and change the cartridge on your workbench. Trying to get the canister installed on the front of the engine after three tries and still leaking was quickly reaching the definition of insanity.
A couple of good pre filters placed in an easy to change location will fix the problem. If you get the crud out first that little Isuzu will be happy for lots of miles.
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Old 06-24-2015, 04:39 AM   #37
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So, its ok to undo the fuel lines on the top of the canister? I guess they arent under high pressure. For some readon I was thinking those shouldnt be removed but I get it now. Duh, well that would make the job much easier. Thanks for the tip and thats what Ill do next time. Hopefully many miles from now.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:19 AM   #38
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MAYCO, broke down on the road need advice

If the lines are to or from the canister they would be on the low pressure side. About 30 psi max. The only high pressure lines should be the lines from the HP pump to the injectors. Shouldn't be any significant residual pressures when the engine is not running.

Be careful not to get any dirt in the connections. A grain of sand can damage the pump or plug an injector.

Makes a good argument for pre filtering and using the engine mounted filter as a safety filter that you may never have to replace with the use these rigs see.

IMO, a fuel pressure gauge is useful for troubleshooting and monitoring your filter performance. Just like the filter minder on the air cleaner. They can pay for themselves by avoiding just one premature filter change.

http://www.steinertractor.com/IHS532...uOOhoCwPzw_wcB

You can install it on the engine as long as you can check it with the engine running. It installs at the outlet of the final filter.

You can get more elaborate and install one that incorporates a transducer with a gauge on the dash.
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Old 06-24-2015, 08:58 AM   #39
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You can install it on the engine as long as you can check it with the engine running. It installs at the outlet of the final filter. Make sure the range it compatible with your engine. That one is 0-80 psi. It might show "change" at normal high idle pressure. I use 0-50 on the Cummins. It shows about 18 at low idle and 28 at speed. When I installed it I was seeing a fluctuating 0-15 leading to replacement of the lift pump.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:17 AM   #40
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Thanks Kota, that explains it very well. I wasnt sure about high pressure / low pressure sides and where I had to be careful cracking the line open.
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Old 06-24-2015, 02:11 PM   #41
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Here is what Racor sells for use on our turbine series fuel filters.


Engineering Bulletin
RK23284
(500, 900 and 1000 Turbine Series Stainless Steel T-handle/Vacuum Gauge Kit)
Beginning July 2013, Racor will introduce our redesigned Turbine Series T-handle /vacuum gauge kit. The new T-handle will be made of 304 stainless steel and can be removed or installed without tools. Previously, the ‘T-handle’ adapter was made from 3/4" hexagonal brass stock which required a wrench during servicing.
This new design fits all 500, 900 and 1000 Turbine Series fuel filter/water separators. The T-handle has a top 1/4" NPT port to accept our #11-1676 vacuum gage.
Additionally, this kit has been accepted for use on our Underwriters Laboratories Marine Listed turbine series (MA versions).
To use this kit, simply install the supplied vacuum gage into the provided T-handle. Next, remove the existing Racor filter T-handle (brass or stainless steel) and install your new T-handle/Vacuum Gage. It’s that easy!
In use, the vacuum gage shows what the fuel system restriction is. With the resettable ‘tell-tail’ pointer, the engine does not have to be running to see the restriction; the gauge pointer follows the active needle and rests at the highest reading all the time. As the tell-tail pointer enters higher restriction levels (yellow zone or about 10 inHg.) you can easily see that the element is getting plugged with contaminants. Servicing the filter before the needle reads much higher virtually eliminates problems such as hard starting, stalling or a loss of engine power. This also gets the most life from your filter cartridge (always keep a spare new cartridge with you).
Features/Benefits
• No tools required
• 304 stainless steel
• Superior corrosion
resistance
• Reverse compatable toolder models
• UL approved for use on marine listed models
Contact Information
Parker Hannifin Corporation
Racor Division
P.O. Box 3208
3400 Finch Road
Modesto, CA 95353
Phone 800 344 3286 209 521 7860
Fax 209 529 3278
Email racor@parker.com
Web parker.com/racor
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:53 PM   #42
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Great info guys! I went and took a look at my fuel filter. Looks industrial with a clear bowl on the bottom that can be drained. Can you see water vs diesel if there is some in the bowl?Click image for larger version

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