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Old 06-21-2015, 08:28 PM   #15
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Oh buddy thank you for getting back so quick. Made the switch on the fuel line now need to prime the upper filter canister and I think we are good to go. Once again, friends on the forum cone through in the pinch......gratitude all over you fellas!!!!!!


Mike
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Old 06-21-2015, 08:36 PM   #16
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Took about 5 mins to swap the fuel line, got her primed with the manual plunger on the side of the motor and she fired right up. Ran great all the way home. I assumed I could bypass that Racor filter since its redundant but Ive gotten myself in too much trouble assuming things in regards to this vehicle. Anyway, thanks for the advice, sure enough it was air infiltration. The cracks in that bowl were not leaking fuel out yet they were letting air in. I tapped on the bleeder screw and saw bubbles climb up in the fuel. Tried tightening the plastic nut on the bottom of the racor and it just crunched. Took it off and their were hair line cracks all the way around the bowl. Alls well, thanks again for the advice fellas. Learn a little more every day about these diesels, fascinating stuff.

Mike
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:16 PM   #17
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Good to hear you made it home. Just another adventure!
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:44 PM   #18
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I don't know what weight my say had but glad you made it home.

Yes water is bad for diesels, but it seems (others may disagree), in the case of our old school mechanical diesels, it takes a lot of it and for quite a while before long term damage is done to injectors or pumps. In the case of the really high pressure modern systems of 20,000+ PSI, water is like cyanide or kyptonite.

I read you really have to be careful if running bio-diesel which like Ethanol attracts moisture.

Also It is a good practice NOT to run your diesel on the last quarter of a tank as water does sink and the bottom of the tank maybe just that, water. Luckily our rigs do have a drain plug on the tank.

Now Mike gets to buy a new water separator, maybe one with fuel pre-heat option . Lucky bugger.

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Old 06-21-2015, 09:54 PM   #19
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Ooooooooooooooooooh, a pre heat option, now your talkin. Never heard of such a thing but if its true, Im interested....or are you pullin my leg Mr Tony?
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Old 06-21-2015, 09:56 PM   #20
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And I ALWAYS read and respect your advice and knowledge...........and Im NOT pulling your leg.

Mike
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Old 06-21-2015, 10:09 PM   #21
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You guys put up with my remedial questions on a regular basis, I can only imagine the number of eyes rolling......but through your patience and kindness you continue to put up with me........I hope you ALL know that my "thank you's" are sincere. Cause they couldnt be more so. The knowledge here is impressive to say the least
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Old 06-21-2015, 11:35 PM   #22
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A pre heat option sounds so damn Sexy. I had diesels from 1962 (a '58 Mercedes 180 D) to about 1998 when the old '83 6.2 L Suburban Diesel went away. Racor filters were added to the Suburban which kept the old Standyne fuel system operating.

I was a hero to some radio technicians on a 7000 foot mountain top here in Idaho, once when I was able to by pass one of their leaky original Chev filters on their Suburban Diesel so they could get back home. It is hard to describe how very bad the road was, and getting anyone to come to fix it in place would have been a major deal. But, with a couple of clamps stolen from other places on the rig, and knowing how to prime the remaining filter, I got them going.

So, glad you got home too.
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:42 AM   #23
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I'm a little late to the party but I'm glad you made it home in one piece. First when you opened you filters and found them half full that is the give away that you have air in the system which will cause the engine to act up and ultimately die. Finding the source of the air is the only cure.

Next the notion that the filters are redundant is incorrect. The Racor actually acts as the trash filter. It is supposed to be a 30 micron filter to remove the larger particles (trash) from the fuel so that the Isuzu filter which is a 2 micron filter will not plug up as fast. The PO of my coach had inadvertently purchased a couple of 2 micron elements and they would last about 800 miles before plugging up. These rigs do have 30 plus years of crud in the tank.

Another thing is the fuel pick up on these tanks is at or near the bottom of the tank. It does not move and anything at the bottom of the tank will get sucked up whether the tank is full or half full or quarter full. This is another reason for a trash filter first. And yes even these old mechanical diesels do not like water in their diet. It can do serious damage to both the pump and injectors.

Parts for the Racors are still available Racor - Bowl Assembly for 500 Series There are a lot of them on boats and they are well supported.

Now that you are ready to spend some money I will tell you what I did. I run a WIX 33118 which is a large spin-on 30 micron filter. Part Details I used a generic remote filter head available through any truck parts supply.
Next in line is my Racor with a 10 micron element and then the Isuzu engine mounted 2 micron filter. The big WIX holds a lot of crud before the other filters see anything and is easy to change. The fun to change Isuzu filter has been there for about 40,000 miles on my coach with no problem.

One last thing if you want to buy a preheater get one for the crankcase. Being able to spin the engine will be more help in starting a cold engine. If you need to preheat the fuel you are in way too cold weather to be out in an Airstream. At least it's way too cold for me to be out in my Airstream.
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Old 06-22-2015, 07:12 AM   #24
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Parts for the Racors are still available Racor - Bowl Assembly for 500 Series There are a lot of them on boats and they are well supported.

That will make things easier and cheaper. I have no idea what filter system they used on the Isuzu but this is what AS chose for the Cummins. http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/r...rofit_kit.html

Parts are not available unless you are lucky enough to find some that have been squirreled away. Upgrading to modern commonly available components can save some grief on the road.

I installed a fuel pressure gauge which can give you valuable information on the condition of your filters and lift pump. Low feed pressure to the HP pump can cause damage to the pump. It will let you know when need to check out the system and keep you from changing filters prematurely.
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:00 AM   #25
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Was able to find a replacement bowl w bleed valve from Racorstore.
Racor Rk 11-1606-1 Bowl Kit-Clr 900/3Ma-1000/3Ma

Says it fits the 500fg series
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Old 06-22-2015, 09:18 AM   #26
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I'm really glad to hear you fixed it. We can be totally self sufficient as long as we have good friends....
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Old 06-22-2015, 10:06 AM   #27
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Amen to that!!! We all have different skill sets, knowledge, experience, and so forth. I can build you a house but put me in front of a diesel engine and my confidence level hovers around "0". BUT!, Im getting better and the freak outs are getting less all due to the help of folks right here. I have five brothers and all but 1 chose the trades as their vocation. My father was a union electrician. So I grew up in the building environment. No friends or relatives with much knowledge or experience in engines. We were of very modest means and I always did my own maintenance on whatever I was driving, but always gassers and limited to tune ups and an occasional brake job. Never tore into a rebuild or rear end and such.

Incredible knowledge base here. I hope that we have started a tradition with the first Classic Motorhome Get Together back in April. Though there wasnt a whole lot of nuts and bolts discussion, it sure was nice to put some faces to the names here on the forums. (Maybe a little osmosis took place also)
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Old 06-22-2015, 12:19 PM   #28
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That will make things easier and cheaper. I have no idea what filter system they used on the Isuzu but this is what AS chose for the Cummins. Racor RK12963 Retrofit Kit

Parts are not available unless you are lucky enough to find some that have been squirreled away. Upgrading to modern commonly available components can save some grief on the road.

I installed a fuel pressure gauge which can give you valuable information on the condition of your filters and lift pump. Low feed pressure to the HP pump can cause damage to the pump. It will let you know when need to check out the system and keep you from changing filters prematurely.
That's a pretty exotic filter for our old Isuzu's. The original filter Airstream installed is the Racor 500 series. It is very popular in the marine world and is still manufactured today. The Isuzu also has a priming pump as part of the mechanical lift pump on the engine so an additional pump on the filter is not necessary. Also the Racor 500 series filter and the RK-12963 are mounted on the suction side of the pump and Racor recommends a vacuum gauge to determine when a replacement element is needed. As you mentioned a pressure gauge will monitor lift pump and filter condition but it will not tell you which is the problem.

The filter industry is massive as are the choices. I was running Racor filters on my boat before Airstream put a diesel in a motorhome. The important thing is that your engine only ingests clean fuel. How you do that isn't important as long as long as your engine gets as much clean fuel as it wants. The same can be said about the air it ingests.
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