Leaking Hydraulic Stabilizer Line(s)

[noiva]

Just discovered I've got fluid leaking from at least one of the hydraulic stabilizer lines coming from the control unit mounted just inside the front "hood" . Appears to be at the connection fitting to the control box. How tight should these fittings be tightened? I know there are warnings about over-tightening lines at the stabilizers, so I want to be careful to stop the leaking (if loose fittings are the problem) without wrenching off a connection. Thanks.

Tim

[uwe]

See if it's loose. 1/16 of a turn won't hurt anything.
Hydraulic lines seldom leak from the fitings, though. It's usually the crimped connection.

[noiva]

Originally Posted by uwe

See if it's loose. 1/16 of a turn won't hurt anything.
Hydraulic lines seldom leak from the fittings, though. It's usually the crimped connection.

Thanks, I'll give it a try tomorrow. I was afraid it wasn't going to be as simple as tightening a line, but I'm trying that first. I'll repost, if that's not it, about where to get or how to repair the lines - since the company that made the system is out of business .

Tim

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by noiva

Thanks, I'll give it a try tomorrow. I was afraid it wasn't going to be as simple as tightening a line, but I'm trying that first. I'll repost, if that's not it, about where to get or how to repair the lines - since the company that made the system is out of business .

Tim

If the tightening doesn't work, pull off the offending line, and take it to your local hydraulic supply place. They will be able to repair the line, or fitting for you, but they will need the old one as a pattern. Be careful puilling it off. A check of your yellow pages under "hydraulic" should find someone. If not, a farm implement repair shop should have the stuff to help you. Just because the company that sold the equipment is gone, does not mean you can't get it fixed. You just need to be more resourceful in finding what you need.

[noiva]

Originally Posted by overlander63

If the tightening doesn't work, pull off the offending line, and take it to your local hydraulic supply place. They will be able to repair the line, or fitting for you, but they will need the old one as a pattern. Be careful puilling it off. A check of your yellow pages under "hydraulic" should find someone. If not, a farm implement repair shop should have the stuff to help you. Just because the company that sold the equipment is gone, does not mean you can't get it fixed. You just need to be more resourceful in finding what you need.

Again, I thank you very much! The stabilizers have been worked on before when my brother owned the coach, so I knew they could be repaired. However, Ive worked on most systems on vehicles, but have never had to deal with hydraulics before. My brother always could afford to pay to have repairs done when he owned this coach, but with very mixed (mostly bad) results. I'll check exactly which line is leaking, try tightening the hose, and if that doesn't work I'll do as you suggested. We have several hydraulic places near here. I am determined to keep this MoHo maintained, and since money is an issue, I plan to do most of it myself. Once again, the Forum folks have been invaluable. I'll let you know how this comes out.

Tim

[uwe]

Make sure that the system's pressure is bled down before removing lines.
Hydraulic fluid under pressure can severely injure you.

[noiva]

Originally Posted by uwe

Make sure that the system's pressure is bled down before removing lines.
Hydraulic fluid under pressure can severely injure you.

Thanks for the tip. I've got lots of literature on the operation of these stabilizers, and I'll check on how the pressure is released if the slight tightening doesn't fix it. I'm assuming that's a fairly simple job?

Tim

[noiva]

OK guys, I tried to tighten the leaking line at the control box, but the entire line rotates when I try to tighten it. I was assuming this fitting would rotate like a plumbing supply line does, but that didn't happen. Anyone have any ideas, or am I doing something wrong here? By the way, I tried holding the crimped side with pliers, but it still wouldn't rotate. The way it stands now, I'll have to remove the line from the stabilizer so the whole thing can rotate when I'm working up at the control box. Is that the way it's supposed to be?

Thanks, Tim

[Tinsel Loaf]

Depending on the age of the lines it sounds like it's time to replace them. Some styles of hydraulic lines will start wheeping that sometimes starts at the fittings. It's just due to pressure and age. Find your local hose shop or tractor sales repair company and they can make you a complete new set to your spects. If it is hose wheeping it is better to replace all of them at once, like worn out brake lines.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by noiva

OK guys, I tried to tighten the leaking line at the control box, but the entire line rotates when I try to tighten it. I was assuming this fitting would rotate like a plumbing supply line does, but that didn't happen. Anyone have any ideas, or am I doing something wrong here? By the way, I tried holding the crimped side with pliers, but it still wouldn't rotate. The way it stands now, I'll have to remove the line from the stabilizer so the whole thing can rotate when I'm working up at the control box. Is that the way it's supposed to be?

Thanks, Tim

Tim, they SHOULD be able to turn without turning the entire line. If it won't, chances are good that the line is corroded where the threaded part of the fitting is, and the corrosion has siezed the fitting to the line. If a little of your favorite de-rusting stuff (WD40, or whatever flavor you like) doesn't allow it to budge, you are going to have to replace the line, or at least the end.

[noiva]

Since I've only owned this coach a few months I don't know the entire history of the lines. However, I do know that several of the jacks have been rebuilt (new seals,etc.) withing the past several years. The weeping lines are apparently the only problem now. My attempts at tightening the top line only made the leaking worse.

Two further questions before I go to my local hydraulic repair shop: 1) Can I assume that the hex fastener just past the crimp should rotate? (I ask that because that fitting goes into another which goes into a third that goes into the actual control box, and the space between the crimp and hex is where the fluid is collecting. In other words, the hex appears to be the end of the hose. From there are two fittings that attach it to the control box. I hope that's clear .) 2) I discovered the leaking because every time I cut off the engine I was getting an odor of hot engine-type fluids coming up in the coach. My checking found no oil or tranny fluid, nor does the coach drip when parked. Apparently the hydraulic fluid is running down on the radiator and doing some blow-back below the engine oil pan, then heating up when the vehicle stops and the fluid has a chance to touch hot surfaces. Does this sound reasonable? Sorry to be so long, but I'm attempting to make this clear .

Thanks for the help.

Tim

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by noiva

Since I've only owned this coach a few months I don't know the entire history of the lines. However, I do know that several of the jacks have been rebuilt (new seals,etc.) withing the past several years. The weeping lines are apparently the only problem now. My attempts at tightening the top line only made the leaking worse.

Two further questions before I go to my local hydraulic repair shop: 1) Can I assume that the hex fastener just past the crimp should rotate? (I ask that because that fitting goes into another which goes into a third that goes into the actual control box, and the space between the crimp and hex is where the fluid is collecting. In other words, the hex appears to be the end of the hose. From there are two fittings that attach it to the control box. I hope that's clear .) 2) I discovered the leaking because every time I cut off the engine I was getting an odor of hot engine-type fluids coming up in the coach. My checking found no oil or tranny fluid, nor does the coach drip when parked. Apparently the hydraulic fluid is running down on the radiator and doing some blow-back below the engine oil pan, then heating up when the vehicle stops and the fluid has a chance to touch hot surfaces. Does this sound reasonable? Sorry to be so long, but I'm attempting to make this clear .

Thanks for the help.

Tim

Tim, first, loosen the first nut, then tighten the nut that goes to the stabilizer, then re-tighten the first nut. You have two fittings that adapt from the size of the line to the size of the fitting on the stabilizer. You have to loosen the outer nut slightly, so the one closest to the stabilizer will turn (and hopefully tighten).

[noiva]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Tim, first, loosen the first nut, then tighten the nut that goes to the stabilizer, then re-tighten the first nut. You have two fittings that adapt from the size of the line to the size of the fitting on the stabilizer. You have to loosen the outer nut slightly, so the one closest to the stabilizer will turn (and hopefully tighten).

Thanks so much for this insight. I knew there had to be something I wasn't doing right. There's no apparent corrosion at that fitting, so the freeze-up idea didn't seem to apply. The installation instructions call for 10 ft. lbs. of torque where the lines go into the stabilizers, but say nothing about the torque at the control box. Any idea as to how tight I should make that? The three lines below the loose one seem quite tight, but the leaking top line is very loose. Do you know if these lines have 'O' rings to seal them? Is this just a seat-of-the-pants adjustment?

Thanks again,

Tim

[Tinsel Loaf]

Usually they are flair fittings and do not use o rings. Tighten them just till they are snug then turn one flat. That should do it. Over tighten and you may damage the male threads and the flair.

[noiva]

Originally Posted by Tinsel Loaf

Usually they are flair fittings and do not use o rings. Tighten them just till they are snug then turn one flat. That should do it. Over tighten and you may damage the male threads and the flair.

I'm not sure but I think I've got it. Terry's info on how to loosen the first nut and then the hose nut seems to have done the trick. Haven't tested it yet because I'm in the middle of replacing all the hot water hoses on the engine and back to the auxiliary heater. The heater hoses are pushing 17 years old, and I don't want to fill the inside of my coach with hot coolant, nor dump all the coolant in the highway without knowing it. I'm also adding shut-offs to the send and return hoses for both the dash heat and the auxiliary. I'm putting them at the engine so I can cut them off in the warmer weather saving both unnecessary heat inside the coach, and the potential of a leak. I appreciate the info on the flair fittings. Hadn't even thought of that, but if this repair works, I'll save examining the fitting for another leak . I appreciate the advice.

Tim