Is my turbo working?

[kyote]

jumping into an old thread...

Mayco, I have heard that getting air in the diesel fuel lines is bad, unlike gasoline where it may sputter a bit but be ok. Did you do anything special when you replaced the fuel filter?

I also have worked a bit on gas engines, mostly small Japanese ones. This all new to me too. But, the Turbo appears to be holding pressure according to the gauge. I do seem to be leaking oil, but not enough to drip to the ground. I haven't isolated where it is coming from yet. Also, there appears to be a overflow tube from the top of the engine?

I drained the old diesel and ran 1/3 can of seafoam with 5 gallons of new diesel. Cut down on the smoke a lot, and is revving to 2000rpm at idle without cutting out before changing fuel.

I plan on sorting out the leak before changing the oil, changing the fuel filters in the short term, then get into the other fluid and belt changes Mayco listed upthread. Anything else to consider for now?

anyone have a scanned manual for the engine?

thanks

[mayco]

Hey there kyote,
WOW, its pretty weird reading that old post, seems like ten years ago! Anyway, youve got two fuel filters on your turbo diesel. One is in the front passenger wheel well and one on the front passenger side of the motor. The one in the wheel well on mine is a Racor filter/separator. The NAPA GOLD replacement cartridge is #3208. The filter on the motor is often referred to as the "upper" fuel filter here on the forum. Again, NAPA GOLD replacement cartridge is #3260.

Here is a video on changing out the cartridge on the Racor....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoepJbqXW_0

Before I place the top back on, I try to top off the canister with fuel. Its awkward in there, I use a small solo cup to pour in as much as I can get in there. Its a bit of a messy job, I always end up with fuel dripping down my arm.

The "upper" filter is not as easy to replace. But it doesnt need replacing as often as the Racor. A second person to help hold the canister up in place when putting it back together is real helpful. Ive volunteered my wife to help with that process. She LOVES it! I try to fill the canister with fuel before lifting it up in place. I believe Brad or someone else recommended removing the whole canister from the motor and replacing the filter on the bench....Im going to try that the next filter change.

Then, you can "prime" that section of the fuel system with a the small plunger pump located inline before the upper filter. I dont think I have a picture of the little priming pump but Ill try to find one. It has a round knurled thumb turn on the top of the pump stem. You loosen that by hand, turning counter cw and it releases the pump stem. Then you can manually pump it up to inject more fuel into the filter canister. You will feel the resistance once the canister gets full.

Ive changed both filters on mine at least twice and havent had a problem with air in the fuel lines doing it this way. Some folks recommend changing the Racor filter cartridge with every oil change. Im not quite sure what the recommended interval is for the upper filter.

Ill see if I can find some pics of the priming pump.

Mike

[mayco]

This is what the little priming pump looks like on the side of the motor.




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[mayco]

I pulled this pic off the web. The priming pump has the orange colored round cap in this picture.



If you trace the center fuel line connection from the top of the black fuel filter near the front of the motor........backwards




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[kyote]

Mike,

Thanks for the in-depth info! I'll get on it this week and let you know how it goes. Nice that you wife helps you, mine smells diesel and runs the other way

I started draining the radiator yesterday, but it is going super slowly. There are three radiators? The engine, the transmission, and I assume the GV over/under. Is it slow because of coolant running through all three, a clog, or both? The coolant still tests ok with the floating ball tester thingy, but it is cloudy.

[mayco]

Glad to help when I can. I dont have a gearvendor so Im not sure if they have a separate cooling unit. On my '82 310, the engine coolant runs through the radiator and the heater core (when your heater control is set for heat). The heater core is located in front of the passenger seat behind the kick panel. In addition I have a tranny cooler that sits in front of the radiator but of course that is tranny fluid running through that one....

and yes indeed my wife Lynn is quite a trooper for pitching in and helping when I ask her. Shes a peach no doubt. (as smart as she is, I still manage to fool her into thinking that I know what Im doing with mechanics )

[Smartstream]

It's interesting all the filter numbers. Here are the Racor filter numbers.

Replacement Filters
2 micron
10 micron
30 micron

2010SM-OR

2010TM-OR

2010PM-OR

The NAPA replacement numbers are 3796 2 micron, 3795 10 micron, and 3794 30 micron. These are plastic cartridges like the Racor.

The NAPA Gold 3208 is a 14 micron metal jacket cartridge.

The NAPA Gold 3260 is a 10 micron cartridge.

The purpose of the Racor is to remove larger particles and moisture so that the secondary filter doesn't fill up and require frequent changes. A 14 micron filter will fill up nearly as fast as a 10 micron. I believe a 30 micron Racor might better serve the system. Just something to think about.

The Gearvendor does not have water cooling. The oil sump is it. They do however offer a deep sump which holds more oil and offers more cooling.

[mayco]

I cant remember where I got the cross reference to the NAPA Gold filters Dan. So are you saying the recommended filters should be 30 micron in the Racor and 2 micron on the upper? (or 10 micron on the upper). Thanks for the information.

Mike

[Smartstream]

Mike the secondary filter which is the one on the top front of the engine is kind of limited in what is available. If you do an interchange search with the factory number you get the factory spec which I believe is the 3260 which is 10 micron.

The Racor is an accessory unit sold big time in the marine industry. It is a primary filter to keep the trash and water from reaching the secondary filter and the injector pump. It is a relatively small filter that fills up fast. Like boats chances are old moho's have nasty stuff in the tank. The more pre-filters, the more stuff removed saving the final filter.

I installed a large spin on truck filter about 3.5" x 8" where the Racor used to live. I moved the Racor on top of the frame rail where it is easy to reach. The large filter is 21 micron, the Racor is 10 micron and I haven't changed the filter on the engine in ages because it only sees clean fuel. I just find changing my pre-filters easier than dealing with the beast on the front of the engine.

[mayco]

Thanks Dan. I get what you were saying in your first post now. Install a higher micron filter in the Racor. Ill see what I can find for my next filter change. Wont hurt anything to run the 14 micron, it will just clog quicker. I carry a spare too.

[Smartstream]

When I first got my coach I could only get 700 or 800 miles on a filter. The PO left several spares and after the third change I started checking part numbers, they were 2 micron filters. They were not Racor brand so I had to chase down the numbers. I had clean fuel but what a pain.

[mayco]

Hahahaha, no fun but at least it was an easy fix once you sorted it out.

[kyote]

Mayco and Smartstream.

thanks for the info on what radiators and filters are what.

I can get around a small Japanese engine, but this all new to me.

at least there is (usually) more room to work!