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Old 11-21-2013, 05:58 AM   #15
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1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign , Illinois
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thanks again. i continue the work on the 310 and have been able to determine that the turbo is indeed working. now if its working at peak efficiency is another story. i did track down the vacuum line that goes to the boost gauge and everything seems to be in order. i think the gauge was just stuck and wasnt reading any boost, it now is showing up to 10lbs boost under load. i continue to find idiotic decisions that were made by previous owners though. the latest was that someone had glued carpet over the front doghouse access panel that covered the bolts to remove it. i had read and read on these forums about removing the "entire" doghouse to access the engine and since i could not see how that front panel was connected i didnt realize it comes off. duh! well, i was able to expose the mounting bolts and remove it so i could get to the upper fuel filter, which abviously had not been changed at least as far back as when the carpet was installed. i changed both fuel filters yesterday and took it out for a run on the highway to get her up to temp. big difference in her performance and now...........all the sudden......the BOOST GAUGE IS WORKING!! this is really a process! trying to get this baby ready for hitting the road on a more consistent long term basis. ive got plenty of time, my wife has another couple years before she retires and thats when we plan to spend winters in the south somewhere in the 310. i love the vehicle, but at times get a bit discouraged as every time i turn around there seems to be something else to repair. but, i realize, thats the name of the game with these classics. got to slow down on the expense side for a few months though. i must say, she is to a point right now that i feel pretty confident we could take off for a long road trip and be in pretty good shape. my next big ticket items will be to start laying in critical spare parts ie; alternator, starter, etc. for the isuzu. so far i have done front airbags, front shocks, new harmonic balancer, radiator repair and boilout with coolant flush, flush power steering, flush brake system, new fuel filters, new coolant hoses, new water pump, new belts alt., various electrical repairs, new trumpet horns, new heater control cables, new brake pads, boy i know im forgetting a few things here but i think ive got a good start on getting this rig up to spec. of course these are only the chassis repairs, ive done a great deal on the "coach side" also but those have been more wants than needs. ITS A PROCESS for sure. i am eternally greatful for this forum and those of you with such incredible experience and knowledge to help us rookies get out and enjoy these beautiful machines.
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:34 AM   #16
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1991 35' Airstream 350
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I am a bit jealous, but I believe if I were to buy a Classic motorhome, I would seek an early turbo diesel. The mechanically injected Isuzu engines are very stable.

I am not a diesel tech, but I have played around with several.

As mentioned before, diesel engines create very little vacuum. This is because, unlike gasoline engines, the air intake is not a factor in controlling engine speed. The fuel flow is.

The throttle of a diesel engine does not control an air restricting throttle plate as in a carburetor or even a fuel injected gasoline engine. It controls the metering valve at the injector pump. As such, no vacuum can be created because air flow is not being restricted.

Without a turbo charger, the engine power output is limited by the volume of air the cylinder can draw in under almost atmospheric pressure. The fuel charge supplied by the injector pump must be limited to match the air available for ignition/combustion.

A turbo charger blows air into the engine under pressure. This increases the volume of air available for combustion. So, the fuel charge can be increase substantially to take advantage increased amount of air.

More fuel+more air = better combustion and MORE power.

If the turbo charger fails, the fuel charge will be too rich and the under burned fuel will exit the tailpipe as black smoke.

So, the line from the pressurized side of the after-turbo side of the air system to the gauge on the dash is not measuring vacuum, it is measuring the positive pressure created by the turbo charger.

But, all this boost and added fuel can create a monster under high output conditions like pulling a long grade. The engine is working hard and temps can rise quickly.

These older diesels don't like water temps above about 180 degrees or exhaust temps above 1000 degrees. They will fail quickly when pushed to hard.

I would make sure my water temp gauge was working and add a pyrometer if there isn't one. When the temps start to climb, back off the throttle and enjoy the ride.

Keep fuel and air filters changed. Diesel is more oily and dirty then gasoline, and the filters begin restricting flow much more quickly then gasoline.

The Isuzu will last a long last a long time with a little care.

Sorry to get lengthy. I hope it helps.

Regards,

JD
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:11 AM   #17
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Good info!

I'm not familiar with the Isuzu but a handy addition to the Cummins is a fuel pressure gauge. They connect to the output line of the final filter that feeds the injector pump. It will let you know if you have any issues with the fuel system suck as clogged filters or a failed lift pump. On the Cummins, the P1700 injector pump can be damaged by low supply pressure or suction feeding. Air bubbled in the pump can form under low feed pressure which are very abrasive and can take out the pump in a short time. Its about a $3000 repair. Mine runs about 15 to 28 psi depending on engine load.

Another consideration is the massive air flow of these engines. The filters tend to clog quicker that you would expect. Especially in a rear engine configuration (dusty end) like mine. A filter minder is cheap and easy to install.

I've got almost 3 years of digging into mine and feel pretty comfortable knowing that there is very little that I couldn't repair on the road other that a major engine or transmission failure. Good preventative maintenance and operating practices should reduce the chance of problems.

Good luck and have fun with it.

Dave...
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:30 AM   #18
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1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign , Illinois
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oh please, i appreciate your input. i dont know much about these diesels at all. i grew up working on my own vehicles like so many out of necessity. so ive spent a fair amount of time under the hood of various old classics but they have always been gas powered. also, im an novice at best but have managed. some of the folks on this forum just blow me away with their expertise in mechanics. it scares me a bit because ill never know that much, dont know if i want to. hehe. but, my main goal is to make sure i have done ALL that i can to make the vehicle safe and reliable as i can and then let things happen as they will, enjoy the ride where ever and what ever the situation. we have found in our travels, mainly in various areas of mexico and central america, that some of the best of times have been had when things dont go exactly as planned and we are faced with making the best of the situation at hand. soooooooo, i guess i want to know enough about this monster to not be completely vulnerable when it breaks down out in some strange place, yet at the same time i dont want to constantly worry about whats gonna break next! there is some balance there...................i hope. all in due time, next up is the master cylinder and then the steering stabilizer. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh......it will end....wont it? hehehehe, maybe not, and maybe thats the beauty of the whole experience.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:54 AM   #19
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hey dakota, i just noticed that youre out in boulder. my son and daughter are both up in fort collins. we get out there from time to time, i did my internship many moons ago in longmont. we hope that our next trip out will be in the 310 next spring.
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:08 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco View Post
hey dakota, i just noticed that youre out in boulder. my son and daughter are both up in fort collins. we get out there from time to time, i did my internship many moons ago in longmont. we hope that our next trip out will be in the 310 next spring.
Definitely get in touch when you come through!
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Old 08-27-2016, 08:30 AM   #21
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1979 28' Airstream Excella 28
Albuquerque , New Mexico
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jumping into an old thread...

Mayco, I have heard that getting air in the diesel fuel lines is bad, unlike gasoline where it may sputter a bit but be ok. Did you do anything special when you replaced the fuel filter?

I also have worked a bit on gas engines, mostly small Japanese ones. This all new to me too. But, the Turbo appears to be holding pressure according to the gauge. I do seem to be leaking oil, but not enough to drip to the ground. I haven't isolated where it is coming from yet. Also, there appears to be a overflow tube from the top of the engine?

I drained the old diesel and ran 1/3 can of seafoam with 5 gallons of new diesel. Cut down on the smoke a lot, and is revving to 2000rpm at idle without cutting out before changing fuel.

I plan on sorting out the leak before changing the oil, changing the fuel filters in the short term, then get into the other fluid and belt changes Mayco listed upthread. Anything else to consider for now?

anyone have a scanned manual for the engine?

thanks
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Old 08-27-2016, 01:41 PM   #22
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1982 31' Airstream 310
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Hey there kyote,
WOW, its pretty weird reading that old post, seems like ten years ago! Anyway, youve got two fuel filters on your turbo diesel. One is in the front passenger wheel well and one on the front passenger side of the motor. The one in the wheel well on mine is a Racor filter/separator. The NAPA GOLD replacement cartridge is #3208. The filter on the motor is often referred to as the "upper" fuel filter here on the forum. Again, NAPA GOLD replacement cartridge is #3260.

Here is a video on changing out the cartridge on the Racor....
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:01 PM   #23
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This is what the little priming pump looks like on the side of the motor.

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Old 08-27-2016, 02:16 PM   #24
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I pulled this pic off the web. The priming pump has the orange colored round cap in this picture.

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If you trace the center fuel line connection from the top of the black fuel filter near the front of the motor........backwards


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Old 08-28-2016, 07:22 AM   #25
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1979 28' Airstream Excella 28
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Mike,

Thanks for the in-depth info! I'll get on it this week and let you know how it goes. Nice that you wife helps you, mine smells diesel and runs the other way

I started draining the radiator yesterday, but it is going super slowly. There are three radiators? The engine, the transmission, and I assume the GV over/under. Is it slow because of coolant running through all three, a clog, or both? The coolant still tests ok with the floating ball tester thingy, but it is cloudy.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:51 AM   #26
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1982 31' Airstream 310
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Glad to help when I can. I dont have a gearvendor so Im not sure if they have a separate cooling unit. On my '82 310, the engine coolant runs through the radiator and the heater core (when your heater control is set for heat). The heater core is located in front of the passenger seat behind the kick panel. In addition I have a tranny cooler that sits in front of the radiator but of course that is tranny fluid running through that one....

and yes indeed my wife Lynn is quite a trooper for pitching in and helping when I ask her. Shes a peach no doubt. (as smart as she is, I still manage to fool her into thinking that I know what Im doing with mechanics )
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:27 PM   #27
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It's interesting all the filter numbers. Here are the Racor filter numbers.

Replacement Filters
2 micron
10 micron
30 micron

2010SM-OR
2010TM-OR
2010PM-OR


The NAPA replacement numbers are 3796 2 micron, 3795 10 micron, and 3794 30 micron. These are plastic cartridges like the Racor.

The NAPA Gold 3208 is a 14 micron metal jacket cartridge.

The NAPA Gold 3260 is a 10 micron cartridge.

The purpose of the Racor is to remove larger particles and moisture so that the secondary filter doesn't fill up and require frequent changes. A 14 micron filter will fill up nearly as fast as a 10 micron. I believe a 30 micron Racor might better serve the system. Just something to think about.

The Gearvendor does not have water cooling. The oil sump is it. They do however offer a deep sump which holds more oil and offers more cooling.
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:50 PM   #28
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1982 31' Airstream 310
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I cant remember where I got the cross reference to the NAPA Gold filters Dan. So are you saying the recommended filters should be 30 micron in the Racor and 2 micron on the upper? (or 10 micron on the upper). Thanks for the information.

Mike
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