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Old 04-20-2002, 08:46 PM   #1
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Question inside light lens' how to remove to clean

I have spent several hours, at times looking at the lights under the gallie storage and kitchen storage bins. How do you get the lens out to clean in there with out bending the sides or cracking the lens itself?
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Old 04-21-2002, 10:00 AM   #2
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Paul,

I too was perplexed by those same lights! The only way to clean inside or replace bulbs is to bend and flex the plastic lens until it comes out. I was VERY concerned about breaking the plastic. After I removed the plastic, I investigated a better way and there is none. The fixture itself does not come out. There is no side that can be unscrewed for the lens to slide out. It's a crazy design! Be careful taking it out. Be advised, bad words formed in my head about the designer but I made every effort to exhaust only grunts and groans! I wonder if there is a replacement unit that is better designed? I bought enough bulbs to replace all six (3 high and 3 low). When that lens comes off, 6 new bulbs go in!

FYI. The bulbs are 1141 for high and 67 for low. That information is from a sticker on the inside of the fixture itself. The manual indicates something different.
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Old 04-21-2002, 02:00 PM   #3
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And the older your MH is the harder they are to flex. I used duct tape to attach a small hose to my shop vac hose and carefully pushed the small hose through openings from inside the cabinet to vacuum the bugs out.
Replacing bulbs will be another story.
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Old 04-21-2002, 02:10 PM   #4
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the main trick here is to put the lights on for a time to warm the lens and then remove it. I carefully pried one end after the warming for a few minutes, then took out all the lenses,shut the lights while i washed the lenses in the sink, and replaced bulbs as needed. Be sure to turn on the lights on both high and low settings as there are different bulbs in use for each.
The automotive type bulbs reuqire you to push in and turn as you remove them.
I found the hardest one to be the stairway light- one of the floor lights. It kept moving back when I tried to push in and turn..I finally had to reach underneath the coach and hold it from the back, then replace the bulb. I had to recaulk the bulb holder on the outside also.
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Old 04-21-2002, 04:45 PM   #5
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I took out two of them today. The fixture is riveted to the gally bin. Pinch the middle and pull it down, remove one end, remove the other. I used a flat head screwdrive to assist in getting them back on. I did it cold. I'll try warming it up next time. Then again, it was 90+ degrees today in Florida. I did replace all of the bulbs while I had them off.
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Old 04-24-2002, 09:34 PM   #6
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I felt brave tonight and actually got two of the light covers out. No squeezing the middle on mine. I had to use 2 screwdrivers and carefully pry them out. I used a belt sander to shave about 1/16 of each side and of the ends. They are now easier to R&R.
Fred, if two instead three of the 1141's in each fixture give you enough light, I would bet that your blinking problem will go away.
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Old 04-24-2002, 09:53 PM   #7
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Fuse-1 Peter-0

I could not resist!
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Old 04-24-2002, 11:35 PM   #8
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Fred, I actually agree with you.
The fuse wins!
This is deal, if someone is interested.
There are 12 bulbs (the 1141's) in four light fixtures, which run on a 20 AMP fuse, in my case a glass fuse, in Fred's case one of those square breaker fuses.
My fuse connectors get very hot, when I have the switch on high, almost worrysome hot, but the fuse does not blow.
Fred's fuse drops to 0 Volt after having the lights on high for a few minutes, but resets itself after turning the switch off.
I first thought that Fred should replace his fuse (which still may help), but now I think that due to having 12 bulbs, plus old wiring, the resistance is too much. Thats why I suggested to Fred only using 2 of the 3 1141's per fixture.
You may want to try it, put those 4 light fixture on high, open your 12V fuse panel and feel your fuses.
You will know which one is the fuse for those lights!
Any other suggestions?
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Old 04-25-2002, 12:35 AM   #9
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Fix the wiring? Seems to me that you mention "old wiring" as if it is part of the problem . . .

Just a suggestion (my husband is an electrical contractor).
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Old 04-25-2002, 09:16 PM   #10
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Emily, I think it would be way to complicated to gain access to replace the wiring.
I followed my own suggestion and replaced the 1141's, but only left 2 instead of 3 in each of the fixtures. Still plenty of light and the temperature at the fuse is modest.
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Old 04-25-2002, 10:33 PM   #11
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C'mon, Peter! It can't be more complicated than what you did with the exterior of your MH!

I mean, isn't the wiring just behind the insulation? If it is wired like a house, then the wiring is just inside the "walls" beneath the insulation - right?

What happens if the wiring gets "older" - reduce the bulbs again?

Not trying to be difficult, just curious . . .

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Old 04-25-2002, 11:05 PM   #12
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Emily,
I am not even sure, if it is the wiring getting old or corroded. After seeing Fred's fuse getting just as burning hot as mine, I think that they put too many bulbs on one 20 amp fuse. Since I first discovered that, I always was worried about leaving the lights on high for a long time. But thats probably just me being paranoid.
Since I do know, where those wires are running, I rather enjoy a beautiful evening camped out at the lake with 8 bulbs
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Old 04-25-2002, 11:51 PM   #13
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Fair enough!
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