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Old 12-20-2007, 05:56 PM   #29
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Guy,
I would fix the fuel leak asap, if you were to have a fire out in the middle of no where, you could loose the motor home.
I would leave the hot wired ignition circuits, until you can find a correct switch. Most good auto parts stores would have the GM type switch, or a GM dealer. Your oil pressure gauge problem is most likey caused by the bad ignition switch. Check your oil level each day. If I understand correctly you have driven some distance with out the gauges working, and have had no indications of engine problems, then you should be OK.
Good Luck again, boy you need it.
Tom
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Old 12-21-2007, 08:06 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBSarfari28
Guy,
I would fix the fuel leak asap, if you were to have a fire out in the middle of no where, you could loose the motor home.
....
Tom
Roger that. I won't be moving the rig again until this is taken care of. I felt I HAD to get it back to the RV Park some my wife would have a place to sleep.

Believe it or not, this hasn't stressed me out too bad ... Except trying to drive in rush hour traffic with a rig that was dying all the time (several times per block).

Oh, and the food poisoning - that stressed me out big time.

Thanks for all your help on this.
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Old 12-21-2007, 09:45 AM   #31
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It's beginning to look like:
FELIZ NAVIDAD
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Old 12-31-2007, 10:15 AM   #32
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How is it going?

any luck with the diagnosing and repairs?
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:02 PM   #33
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The short version

We are back in the USA (Quartzsite, AZ).

Kino Bay (Bahia Keno) is great.

It was the ignition switch. A member of the family who owns the RV park in Kino has a shop. He does most of the work on the local boats (as well as vehicles). He came to look at the rig, tried to get the ignition switch out, then set a couple of his 'young guys' over to do the job.

They had a devil of a time getting the switch out - it turns out someone had put red locktite on it. Once they got it out we could see that the hot terminals in the connector to the switch were burned and the connector was melted (I can post a picture later). So they got a new switch and salvaged a connector from an old truck (new one not available within 100 miles). Installed new switch and connector, everything works fine now. They also replaced the cracked fuel line. (It WASN'T leaking, just old and cracked).

When they were done, we dove into the nonoperative toad brake system. Discovered that, for no reason I understand, the guys at the Chevy Dealer had cut the control wire between the controller in the MH and the connector for the umbilical between the MH and the toad. I know it was the Chevy guys since the brakes worked when I drove the rig in to them in Hermosillo but didn't when I drove back to Kino.

Once that was repaired, the toad brake works fine.

One symptom of the ignition switch failure was that (for at least a couple of years) the dash board and accessories (toad brake, tire monitor, satellite radio) would sometimes 'reset' when I hit a big bump. I'm now sure that the ignition switch was shutting off monetarily when this happened. OBTW, I have only two keys and a small fob on my key ring with the ignition key. I have it this way because I know that a heavy rig of keys dangling from the lock can cause it to fail.

Thanks to you all for your help and concern and special thanks to Terry
and Rob for helping sort through the possibilities.
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:56 PM   #34
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Dang, maybe that's why my engine cuts out on big bumps in the road. But the cruise don't quit. Would think the cruise wouldn't keep working, but maybe it's not off long enough to cancel the cruise. Guess I'm going to replace the ignition switch next.
mel
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:51 PM   #35
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Guy, glad to hear you got the problem resolved and made it home safely.

Interesting comment on the weight of to many keys on the key ring. I'll have to keep that one in mind.

Now the question is do we need to think about carrying a spare ignition switch with us when we travel?!

Brad
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:21 PM   #36
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Brad,
I would think that if you travel to out of the way spots with difficult access to parts it would be a good idea.

Another recommendation I would make is to pull the ignition switch and inspect the connector and the terminals on the switch. Based on the melted connector and burned terminals, I feel lucky I didn't have a fire.

Another thing to consider would be spare starter and fuel pump relays.
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:26 PM   #37
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Guy, I'm guessing just being away from major population centers means you're going to have a difficult time finding parts.

I had already put relays on my list after reading your earlier posts in this thread. I'm not to bad at trouble shooting and if I have the parts I can generally get to where I'm going. So it looks like I'm going to add an ignition switch AND connector to the list of parts to carry along. At least they are small parts.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:54 PM   #38
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Guy and Brad
Your ignition switch most likely failed because of old age. A connector with loose terminals causing high resistance will burn the connector body, terminals and wires. Internal switch contact wear, and terminal/rivet looseness on the back of the switch causes high resistance(heat). Which will burn the terminals mounted to the back of the switch, the connector and the ternimals within the connector. All signs of old age.
Guy in your case, because of all the wiring problems etc., I would check the current draw of the circuits connected to the back of the ignition switch, just be sure. As you stated above, you are glad you didn't have a fire. If some component is drawing to much current. The current draw could be high enough to burn connectors, terminals etc. but not to high to blow the fuse.
This is an easy check, and can give you piece of mind. I have seen many vehicles burned to the ground because of some small electrical problem.
Just my thoughts. Tom
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Old 01-06-2008, 09:05 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBSarfari28
Guy and Brad
...
Guy in your case, because of all the wiring problems etc., I would check the current draw of the circuits connected to the back of the ignition switch, just be sure. ...
Just my thoughts. Tom
Good point Tom. I don't remember if I described how my rear electric fuel pump was being powered by a wire running directly from the ignition primary on the distributor back to the fuel pump? This was corrected at the Chevy dealer in Hermosillo. I suspect this was causing too much current to flow through the ignition switch.
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Old 02-11-2008, 05:20 PM   #40
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Picture of burned connector

I had said I would post a picture of the burned ignition connector.

I took the old ignition switch apart and it looked fine inside but the contacts for the battery connection on the outside were burned.
Click image for larger version

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Click image for larger version

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I suspect (but don't know for sure) that my problem was caused by a PO (or his mechanic) running a wire directly from the distributor primary to the read fuel pump!

I'm very lucky I didn't have a fire.
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Old 02-15-2008, 12:08 AM   #41
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Guy,
WOW! You are very lucky you didn't have an electrical fire. I would suggest that you keep an eye on the replacement ignition switch connector. Just feel it during future trips, if it's getting hot, have it checked out. You may have high current draw through some circuits, or a loose terminal within the connector. Didn't you replace the connector with a used one? There could be loose terminals on the used connector. How is the rear fuel fuel pump powered now?
Tom
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Old 02-15-2008, 04:05 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBSarfari28
Guy,
WOW! You are very lucky you didn't have an electrical fire. I would suggest that you keep an eye on the replacement ignition switch connector. Just feel it during future trips, if it's getting hot, have it checked out. You may have high current draw through some circuits, or a loose terminal within the connector. Didn't you replace the connector with a used one? There could be loose terminals on the used connector. How is the rear fuel fuel pump powered now?
Tom
Good advice. I have checked and so far it's staying cool. The Chevy dealer in Hermosillo put in a relay to power the rear fuel pump so the ignition provides the power to trip the relay, there is dedicated power to the relay which is sent to the fuel pump when the ignition is on.
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