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Old 12-15-2007, 10:18 PM   #15
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Possible bad ignition switch. Check for power to ignition primary in the run position and start postion, wiggle the key/ignition switch as you check for power. If the power is intermittent, you have a bad/worn ignition switch, old age. I would not use the Bosch relay you had in the above picture for the starter relay, the cureent draw of the starter solenoid windings both pull-in and hold-in windings are close to 20amps. Get a new relay like the original or the Cole Hersee above. Good Luck again.
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Old 12-16-2007, 07:51 AM   #16
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Possible bad ignition switch, or fusible link at the starteer solenoid (lots of fun to check). If your rig has no fuel injection, and no ecm, you can hot wire it so you can get out of there by hooking a wire directly from the battery + to the batt connection on the distributo cap.
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Old 12-16-2007, 10:05 AM   #17
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Quick question, should the ignition primary (which by the way has the power to the fuel pump directly attached) be supplied via a relay?

If so, any ideas of what it would look like / where it would be located?

The wiring in my rig is a real butch job and certainly not stock but a starting point might help me sort it out.

I'm pretty sure it's not the ignition switch since no amount of wiggling gets any power to the distributor, no power in the start position, and SOME accessories get power when I turn the key to the ON position. I'll still check.
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:14 PM   #18
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The fuel pump could use a relay much like the starter relay. What brand of chassis is your motorhome built on? I maybe able to get some info to answer your questions, if I know the chassis brand. If you have no power to the distributor during cranking the unit won't start, I am confused, you must have a real wiring mess. You may need to get a wiring diagram for the chassis and start tracing each circuit on the unit and see what has been done to mess it up.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBSarfari28
The fuel pump could use a relay much like the starter relay. What brand of chassis is your motorhome built on? I maybe able to get some info to answer your questions, if I know the chassis brand. If you have no power to the distributor during cranking the unit won't start, I am confused, you must have a real wiring mess. You may need to get a wiring diagram for the chassis and start tracing each circuit on the unit and see what has been done to mess it up.
It's a 1984 Chevy P-30 chassis. You are right, the wiring has been butched to a fare thee well. If I knew a shop who could do a good job I would have the entire chassis re-wired as Chaplain Kent did.
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Possible bad ignition switch, or fusible link at the starteer solenoid (lots of fun to check). If your rig has no fuel injection, and no ecm, you can hot wire it so you can get out of there by hooking a wire directly from the battery + to the batt connection on the distributo cap.
I was just under the rig, couldn't access the starter wiring from there. Do you access it from the top?
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Old 12-16-2007, 05:55 PM   #21
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I have the ability to look up a wiring diagram for your chassis, I will do that in the morning at my job. Once I have it, I can look it over and see how it was wired when new. Hope it's not to messed up now. Hopefully this will help you, straighten out enough problems to make your trip a little more enjoyable.
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:03 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBSarfari28
I have the ability to look up a wiring diagram for your chassis, I will do that in the morning at my job. Once I have it, I can look it over and see how it was wired when new. Hope it's not to messed up now. Hopefully this will help you, straighten out enough problems to make your trip a little more enjoyable.
Thank you very much.

Guy
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Old 12-16-2007, 06:47 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBSarfari28
I have the ability to look up a wiring diagram for your chassis, I will do that in the morning at my job. Once I have it, I can look it over and see how it was wired when new. Hope it's not to messed up now. Hopefully this will help you, straighten out enough problems to make your trip a little more enjoyable.
If it would be possible I would like a copy of the wiring for the 84 chevy chassis as well. I'm in the same boat as Guy99 in that I don't have any diagram of the chassis and that makes for a real pain to troubleshoot.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:45 PM   #24
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Guy99
Sent you an email regarding the diagrams, reply and I will send them to you.
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Old 12-17-2007, 08:50 PM   #25
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Try unplugging/wiggling the chassis wiring plug on the side of the distributor cap...i had troubles like you explain...replaced the chassis wiring plug and distributor cap to solve the problem (for now!, as we all know)
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Old 12-19-2007, 08:50 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBSarfari28
Guy99
Sent you an email regarding the diagrams, reply and I will send them to you.
Tom,

It appears that the diagrams for the Parcel Delivery Trucks are the correct ones for my 84 310 Motorhome. Its nice to finally have some accurate diagrams to work from.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 12-19-2007, 09:45 PM   #27
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Brad,
Glad to hear that they will work for you.
Tom
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Old 12-20-2007, 02:23 PM   #28
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Here's the update. I couldn't find the source of my dead ignition and the amount of work I can do in the RV Park we're staying in is limited. So, I decided to take it to the Chevy dealer in Hermosillo. Drove in on Monday (hour and a half) to locate the dealership and make an appointment. Made an appointment for 8 AM Wednesday. Left the RV Park at 7 AM heading for the appointment. It was cool, so I turned on the dash heater, in a few minutes it had warmed up nicely and suddenly my oil pressure light came on and the gauge dropped to zero. Shut down the engine and stopped. I had added oil before we left so I knew I had oil. I then remembered an occasion on which the rig had been parked facing the sun with the curtains open in the summer, when I got in (it was 130 degrees inside) and started it, the oil light came on and the gauge read zero. When I returned after the rig had been in the shade for a while, the engine started and the oil pressure read normal.

So, I started the engine, listened carefully, checked engine and oil temperatures, everything seemed normal. So we headed down the road. I shut down the heater and switched to vented air on the cool setting, after a while the oil light went out and the pressure gauge came up to normal.

So we made it to the appointment where I showed them that I had to hot wire the rig to get it to run and I showed them where someone had run a wire from the distributor battery terminal directly to the rear fuel pump. I asked them to clean it all up and make it right. I gave them copies of the diagrams Tom sent me, which they used as models of how this were supposed to be.

We waited all day and finally around 6:30 PM they called me over. The showed me where they had done a real nice job of fixing up the wiring and installing a relay to power the fuel pump. BUT they say, the ignition switch is failing intermittently and that is the source of my ignition problem, and OBTW, the fuel between the tank and the rear pump is cracked and may be leaking. They tell me I really should get that fixed but they can't do it until tomorrow. Also, GM parts distribution is shut down for Christmas and they wouldn't be able to order the part until after New Years.

Since Marian and Luc are homeless in the RV Park, I decide that I have to head home. Between the engine stalling and stopping for repairs (hot wired it again, messing up the nice repair they had made to my last hack job) it took an HOUR to cover the first 2 miles of the return .

And, BTW, my toad brake is totally inoperative. We made it back to the park about 9:15 to the great relief of the wives.

After a drink to unwind and some dinner, went to bed. Woke at 4 AM ans was sick as a dog (details skipped) . Turns out, Dave, the fellow who went with me, was also sick all night. We both incapacitated today. We ate lunch in an upscale bar/night spot near the Chevy dealer and must have gotten food poisoning there since neither of the wives are feeling bad.

Any suggestions about how I should proceed?

Clearly, I need to fix or have the fuel line fixed.

Should I just leave the engine hot wired? Or, try to get an after market switch?

Does anyone know, or have the ability to look up, a part number or what else this switch might fit?

Should I delve into the oil pressure indicators or not worry about it until I get home?
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