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Old 05-15-2003, 06:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by 74Argosy24MH
12v won't shock you, too much resistance in the body.........

John
it will melt your wrench or permanently weld it to your exhaust, if you touch ground while unscrewing the nuts. It may even burn out your battery isolator, if you get really lucky.
Disconnect the motor battery before removing wires on the starter!!
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Old 05-15-2003, 06:49 PM   #16
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I agree disconnect the battery before pulling the starter, but you need it connected to test and it will not shock you. It also will not burn out the isolator if properly wired. The isolator is between the alternator and batteries, there should be nothing but a cable between the batteries and starter.

John
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Old 05-15-2003, 09:25 PM   #17
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Only cable between.....

On an 87 345 (Iknow this for sure), starting at the engine battery positive post, a 1' cable connects to the "jumper solenoid", a solenoid that allows you to jump the coach batteries to the engine battery with a momentary switch found in the glove compartment next the the fuse panel. From the Solenoid post a 4' cable is suspended from the battery drawer to the frame of the chassis. Here is located a master breaker. On the "downstream" side of the breaker there are 4 goodsized wires. One goes to the starter, one to the hydraulic system, one to the alternator, and one to to a solenoid on the top of the engine to further distribute 12 volts.

Almost all of the wire end terminals exhibited some dirt and minor corrossion, so it well may be a cumulative effect.

ON the other hand, after all of the work I went through last week with the starter and electric system, I am now in the same situation as Fred, sometimes the starter kicks in....and sometimes it does not. As discussed, I feel there are two possibilities, Neutral/Park safety switch, or the ignition switch.

Like Rosanna Roseanna Dana's momma said.....It's always sumpin'.
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Old 05-16-2003, 11:48 AM   #18
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my starter did the same thing the first time I replaced it. It would sometimes not start,

It turned out to be a wire from the splitter box above the engine, one of the smaller ones, that had almost but not quite burnt thru.

I replaced it and all was well for awhile, then the solenoid burnt from exhaust heat in July. Replaced it again with the new heat proof deal, and rewired, covering all the smaller wiring in heat wrap (thermo-tec).
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Old 05-16-2003, 03:34 PM   #19
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starter stuff

I also had starter problems mine had been replaced with a gm remanufactured starter but that was about it. The solenoid was
in the process of melting from manifold heat. I replaced with a cheap reman from auto zone and it started eating starters
broke the nose off of two of them. I bought a nose peice from a race shop that builds starters and alt for race cars and purchased
a nose peice made of cast iron. GM makes a heat shield for the
starter on a 454 which is about 10 bucks it's just a peice of
steel that has arm to hold it into place and it is held in place by a
solenoid screw and the long threaded stud on the back ind of the starter. the flat peice resides inbetween the manifold and the solenoid no more heat problems and I didn't spend 300 bucks
for a starter I got about 110 bucks in the whole deal. the reason I was breaking the noses off of those cheap jobs is because
they are made cheaply and I was adv some on my timeing which I was unaware of at the time. forgot to say that while it was breaking noses off starters it also broke a couple of teeth off the flywheel. I was already missing one then after breaking the nose it took off a couple more. So then you get to replace the flywheel
and it ain't fun but now I have new flywheel and starter no problems and I have checked it out after several trips everything
is doing fine. I can be done right for less than 110 bucks
The cast iron nose peice I got because the origional end support bracket was missing and the one I got to replace it did not fit
so these iron jobs are used to turn over these dragster 454's
that have 14 to 1 compression ratio (no breaky) it was 60 bucks
the starter was 30 bucks and the heat shield was aabout 12 bucks. if you count the flywheel 45 bucks it's still less than 150 bucks for everything. just my 150 buck worth !
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Old 05-19-2003, 05:10 PM   #20
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Fred,

Does your boost switch start it for you?

I am having the same trouble from my trip to Willamsburg, and when the engine is hot I have to use the boost switch ocassionaly to get it to start. I turn the key and nothing happens. Like the battery is tottaly dead. i know it is not because if the engine is coal it fires right up??
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Old 05-19-2003, 05:24 PM   #21
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Is there potential to do any long term damage using the boost switch?

Many times it does work better with the generator on. Other times, it makes no difference.

Welcome Back Brett! Hope your trip was grand!
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Old 05-20-2003, 08:54 AM   #22
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solenoid

Check your starter for the heat shield betwween the manifold and the solenoid. Extream heat can cause those kinds of symptoms.
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Old 02-23-2004, 08:01 AM   #23
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Intermediate Solenoid

I think this thread pretty well says it all about the starting system, except for one solenoid previously undiscussed. -- The intermediate solenoid.

At least on the mid to late '80's MH's, there is a solenoid mounted under the dog house, towards the forward right hand corner, bolted to the oil dipstick tube.

The purpose of this solenoid is to insure a full 12 volt signal gets to the starter solenoid. The theory being that miscelaneous losses amount to almost 2 volts up to the ignition switch, and, for the current required by the starter solenoid, another 2 volts is lost at the switch.

Since I installed the new 9800 series High Torque mini starter (the 9000 gave up the ghost after a very short time, traded the old 9000 in on warranty for the 9800), I hadn't experienced starting problems, until recently. I am not ready to tear out the old dash and replace it with a new one yet, so I was investigating alternatives to replacing the $25 dollar ignition switch I had suspected of causing the gremlin. With the dog house off, I could tell the intermediate solenoid appeared to be working, because of the loud "click" when attempting to activate the starter, but the starter was not engaging. Hmmm.....

Turns out the intermediate solenoid was not making internal contact, and a new one was had for less than ten bucks. Caution when replacing a "NAPA" brand, the small contacts are not for the same useage as the original GM and a replacement "Autozone" (Ford type). I lost more than a few minutes figuring out that one of the terminals on the "NAPA" replacement was not used, the one I thought was to be grounded was actually for the "hot" lead from the ignition switch, and that the stud diameters were different sizes (had to drill out the crimp type terminal connection to make it fit). This solenoid could contribute to the "hot start" difficulties, since it is subject to heat soaking up under the doghouse.

This is the same type of solenoid that the "hot jumper" (jumps the coach batteries to the chassis battery with a switch in the glove box) uses. The "Hot Jumper" solenoid is located behind the battery drawer. Add this solenoid to the list of recommended "spares".

This solenoid is used at least at two separate points on the coach, possibly three, if your Generator is equipped with a simple contact type starter solenoid.
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Old 02-27-2004, 08:58 PM   #24
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starter

Like it was stated earlier, disconnect the battery cable before working on the starter!!!
Many years ago my teenage son was putting a starter on his manual shift car in front of the garage door, well he "knew it all" and didn't bother to disconnect the battery lead at the battery.
Well we got a new garage door out of that deal( and he got a new pair of shorts!!)Ha.LOL! luckly he managed to get in and stop it before it went out the back of the garage.
$50.00 car, $250.00 door, one smelly pair of shorts= lesson learned
ol'George
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