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Old 04-12-2004, 03:54 PM   #43
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dinoburb,
Thanks. I called them and would be looking at $275 and a three week turnaround for a Stage II rebuild on my own carb. $410 if they grab one off the shelf. Certainly a good option instead of replacement.
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Old 04-12-2004, 04:00 PM   #44
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Don't discount the spread bore Holleys, they are very good carbs and available in different cfm ratings. The only problem rebuilding a Quadrajet is getting the metering rods back in, other than that is is just cleaning and gaskets.

John
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Old 04-12-2004, 04:10 PM   #45
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John,
Thanks. I had not considered a Holley. Was going for a "bolt in and go" solution - but I'll look again.

I'm looking forward to this book I ordered but everything I've read so far talks about how simple a rebuild it is. There seem to be three possible serious (but correctable) issues; play/leaks around the butterfly shafts (which you can drill out and install bushings to correct - beyond my capabilities), leak down at the casting plugs (which can be expoxied) and a warped deck. So if you inspect your carb and don't have these issues then it seems pretty straightforward. I figure one book and a $30 kit might be worth the experience. My bailout is a replacement carb.
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Old 04-12-2004, 04:16 PM   #46
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Steven,

Dumb question........

Have you checked that the bolts that hold the carb to the intake manifold are snug? It could be a vacuum leak below the carb that is causing this issue of starvation. Might be worth a turn of the wrench. Be careful not to over tighten as you can cause more problems. But they should be kinda tight.
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Old 04-12-2004, 07:40 PM   #47
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Along Brett's line, have you checked vacuum? It will eliminate a lot of cracked, loose hoses, carb and manifold leaks.

John
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Old 04-13-2004, 07:42 AM   #48
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I replaced all the vacuum hoses already and i did a simple "leak test" by spraying some starting fluid at the base of the carb and around the manifold while everything was bolted up (air cleaner, etc). I learned this trick in aviation in that the engine will increase RPM as it sucks the starting fluid into the leak. No change on mine, but the manifold and gaskets do look horrible (rust, scale and there was evidence of a mouse house in there when I bought it).

My plan is as follows once I get the book and educate myself:

1. Perform all tests, checks, and tuning outlines in the manual
2. In no change, remove carb and inspect mounting gasket
3. If no change, rebuild existing carb and re-install
4. If no change, send donor carb for Stage II rebuild
5. If no change - well - that would not be funny

(Can you tell I'm an IT guy?)

I also want to double check my ignition at speed - just to be sure befire I start on all of this.
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Old 04-13-2004, 08:21 AM   #49
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IT it

I too am IT type guy but have plenty of fix it skills.

While traveling this past weekend, my fuel delivery problems reared its ugly head again but intermittently.

While we were woking on it last week, I referenced the manual and it says that the fuel pump should be able to fill a pint contanier in 15 seconds, mine could fill it in less than 7 seconds I am sure. I just have a hard time believing it is a fuel pump.

So I have been looking into fuel pressure regulators and throttle sensors, Electronic Control Modules, oxygen sensors etc.....

I have found that you can buy the whole TBI on Ebay for under 300 dollars, NOS, with all new sensors, injectors and regulators.

My problem comes and goes, it does not actually cut off but I can feel it while running. It hesitates every now and then.

I am going to price out sensors and regulators. If they are pricy, I am going to go with whole replacement TBI.

It sucks not having confidence in the engine.

Smily
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Old 04-13-2004, 08:44 AM   #50
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Smily

Have you tried to see if there are any codes set in the ECM? Intermittent is a pain to find, if it is sensor or ECM related maybe there will be a code to start on.

Steve

If you pull the carb you might as well rebuild it. You are going to have to use a new base gasket to reinstall, get one of the thicker spacer ones. It will keep some of the engine heat out of the carb.

John
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Old 04-13-2004, 08:48 AM   #51
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ECM location

Good question!

I sure would like to know where the ECM is located on my 1990 LY.
I guess a call to MFR is in order. Does anyone know a good source for P-30 info?

If I call AS, they tell me they are not Chassis type people, just above the chassis info available.

Smily
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Old 04-13-2004, 08:57 AM   #52
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There is a GM Motorhome Chassis manual that often appears on EBAY for sale, and is offered through some other internet service manual sources. If you put Motorhome Chassis manual in the search you might come up with a good deal on one.
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Old 04-13-2004, 09:10 AM   #53
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I can't tell you on an AS, but I also have a 1990 HR. The ALDL connector is screwed to the floor behind the steering column, just to the left of the offset for the column. It is a black female 2 row connector with only contacts for one row and mounted vertically.
To check for codes, pull the chassis positive cable for 10 minutes to clear the codes. Run the engine until it gives you a problem. Make a short jumper wire that can go across 2 of the terminals on the ALDL. The ones you need to short are the 2 rh ones (mounting orientation comes into play here, on the HR they are actually the bottom 2). When you do this and turn the key to ignition the check engine light should flash 1 time then 2 times (12). It will do this 3 times then flash any set codes as flashes for the individual digits in the codes, eventually going back to 12.

John
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Old 04-13-2004, 12:19 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smily
I too am IT type guy but have plenty of fix it skills.

While traveling this past weekend, my fuel delivery problems reared its ugly head again but intermittently.

While we were woking on it last week, I referenced the manual and it says that the fuel pump should be able to fill a pint contanier in 15 seconds, mine could fill it in less than 7 seconds I am sure. I just have a hard time believing it is a fuel pump.

So I have been looking into fuel pressure regulators and throttle sensors, Electronic Control Modules, oxygen sensors etc.....

I have found that you can buy the whole TBI on Ebay for under 300 dollars, NOS, with all new sensors, injectors and regulators.

My problem comes and goes, it does not actually cut off but I can feel it while running. It hesitates every now and then.

I am going to price out sensors and regulators. If they are pricy, I am going to go with whole replacement TBI.

It sucks not having confidence in the engine.

Smily
There are a LOT of things that will cause issues like that. Throwing parts at it is just going to hurt your wallet.
Be carefull on the TBI's you see. There are SEVERAL different varients. The throttle body for a 350 has smaller injectors and bores then a 454.
http://www.customefis.com that site has a good libray of info.
there is alos a link to some share ware that you can down load and interface a laptop to the system.
www.ck5.com. If you got the forums then go into the 73-91 section there is a link post at the top that I have about a dozen or more EFI links. The 3rd Gen one is good. I have firewall at work that will not let me access that site so no direct link...sorry.

First thing I would replace is the O2 sensor and get a real AC delco for a Chevy dealer. O2 sensore are a replace at 60k item.

ANother thing these EFI enges were prone to is failing gaskets at the base of the TBI. EGR problems as well and thos plastic vac lines are brittle with age...replace them all.
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Old 04-13-2004, 01:46 PM   #55
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O2

Is the O2 sensor you reference on the TBI?
I am under impression there are more than one O2 sensors in the system.

Smily
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Old 04-13-2004, 02:20 PM   #56
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Steven,

When I rebuilt my quadrajet, I bought TWO books on how to do it right because, while I have "rebuilt carbs all my life", the most exotic 4-stroke carb I ever touched was a two barrel progressive. One book would have been sufficient

The one book I got the most out of indicated in the opening paragraph that 99% of all repairs could be done without removing the carb from the manifold. But, as I am funny about everything being shiny clean, I removed the carb anyway.

After the rebuild was completed, I found they were right - there was no reason to remove the carb. Everything could have been done in place.

Ken
I hear you about your fuel pump's ability to deliver gas into a pail, but keep delivery pressure in mind: Pumping gas into pail at zero psig is not the same as pumping gas at pressure to your injectors. Your pump may be failing under load. The only way to verify it is to hook a pressure gauge up to it. It would be great if you could get one and leave it hooked up during your next trip.

Just some thoughts,
Tom
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