Heater Hoses Replacement

[noiva]

Latest on replacing all the heater hoses in my 370: When I pulled out the auxiliary heater water control valve and valve shut-off cable it was frozen. I assumed it was the valve (which is identical to the one on the front heater, by the way), but it was the cable . Valve actually can be turned completely stop to stop by hand, but the cable has been all day oiling each end and slowly working out the rust that apparently has developed inside the cable over the years. Just about got it working like it's supposed to. Could have left it alone, since it was rusted in the open position, but that means you have hot coolant cruising through the auxiliary heater core even in the summer. (I've put shut-offs at the engine for both heaters, but it's sort of like getting rid of the heater control slide on the dash. Sometimes it can come in handy.) Anyway, just a word of caution to any of you guys with auxiliary heaters. If the shut-off to the heater won't move, check the cable first. Still don't have the hoses run from the aux. heater back to the engine, but I'm hoping for tomorrow. I'm getting tired of having this thing up on ramps and incapacitated.

Tim

[noiva]

OK, Guys, I've finally finished the hot water hose replacement for the 370. Took about 2 long days, if I had done it all at once (actually took over a week of sporadic working). Took about 60 feet of 5/8 water hose. Original clamps were fine. All straps and internal stainless springs were reused. Had to replace about 6 of the nylon holding straps, since they had to be cut to get the old hoses off. Got the auxiliary heater control cable freed up and working correctly - so now I can cut the auxiliary on and OFF. Put shut-offs at the engine for both hot water sending and return. Cost about $75 total, mostly because the shut-offs were about $17.00 each, but they're the best I could find. Now it's on to fuzzy channel, a carbon monoxide detector, and some other relatively "simple" jobs. The Gear Vendors under/overdrive is scheduled for March. I just knew everyone wanted to hear about these things .

Best, Tim

[GlenCoombe]

So Tim, where are you planning to have the GV job done?
I wanna watch!!
In a perfect world I'd do that over any other modification ...if I had the $$$.
Right now it's looking like the rear main seal is going to have to get done sooner than later.

[noiva]

Originally Posted by GlenCoombe

So Tim, where are you planning to have the GV job done?
I wanna watch!!
In a perfect world I'd do that over any other modification ...if I had the $$$.
Right now it's looking like the rear main seal is going to have to get done sooner than later.

Glen,

I'm having a transmission shop that has done several of these tranny modifications install the GV in March. You're welcome to watch ! I don't have the money , but I need to get it done before the "travel season" comes. It's a little cheaper to order the gear set myself and pay the tranny shop than to have it all done through GV's contracted shops. They were VERY helpful with suggestions when I talked to them on the phone. I'll keep the gang posted on the results. I've had lots of interest in this project, so I'm assuming many of the Classics could use a 4th gear - although probably not as badly as the 370s . Sorry to hear about the rear main seal, but that shouldn't be a killer, if it's like a car or light truck - I hope .

Best, Tim

[swebster]

I'm interested in both projects....rear main seal and GV install. Sooner or later the seals need replacing and we all want just one more gear on these gassers!

I'll take pictures of my tranny rear bushing replacement if you show me yours

[overlander63]

It's been a while since I had to replace one, but I think the best way to perform this, is to remove the transmisson, and if it is a two piece seal, the oil pan will come down toward the rear. After removing the oil pan, you can remove the rear main cap, with bearing. Be careful not to get dirt in anything, of course. A main seal removal tool is available from Sears, and some auto parts stores. A dollop of STP on it will help it to slide into place. Put some STP on the bearing, and replace the bearing and cap, with the new half seal in the cap. Be sure to torque the main cap, it will probably need 110 foot-pounds, if not more. Install the oil pan with a new gasket (this is a good time to replace the oil pump, they are cheap) and refill the engine with oil. Hopefully by this time the transmission shop is done modifying your transmission for the GV drive, you can then go get it, and install the transmission. I am sure you already know the driveshaft will have to be shortened by the added length of the GV unit, so after installing your transmission, you can head over to the driveshaft shop to pick up your shortened driveshaft. Install the driveshaft, start your motorhome up, and check everything for leaks.
I am sure I made it sound easy.
If your engine has the one piece seal, you should be able to omit all the instructions about removing the oil pan and bearing caps, as the seal SHOULD pop right out the rear, sort of like the newer Ford engines, like Noivia has.

[noiva]

Originally Posted by swebster

I'm interested in both projects....rear main seal and GV install. Sooner or later the seals need replacing and we all want just one more gear on these gassers!

I'll take pictures of my tranny rear bushing replacement if you show me yours

Steven,

You've got a deal ! I'll take pictures of the tranny as it now looks, with the air brake in its present position. (Don't forget it's a Ford C6 because I have the "Limited Edition " 370, but the similarities with other trannies are quite close). Then I'll take pictures of the GV unit when I get it in March. Finally, I'll take some of the installed unit. I hope to have this completed by the end of March or early April, at the latest. If you'll do something similar with your tranny bushing job, we can file each other's pics and comments to help us when we're each faced with the other's project . As you said, I suspect we won't be the only ones interested in these procedures.

Best, Tim

[noiva]

(Quote)If your engine has the one piece seal, you should be able to omit all the instructions about removing the oil pan and bearing caps, as the seal SHOULD pop right out the rear, sort of like the newer Ford engines, like Noivia has.


Terry,

If I'm not mistaken, Steven is replacing the rear bushing on his tranny, not the rear main seal on his engine. At least that's what I understood. I could be wrong, of course. Sure wouldn't be the first time !

Tim

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by noiva

Terry,

If I'm not mistaken, Steven is replacing the rear bushing on his tranny, not the rear main seal on his engine. At least that's what I understood. I could be wrong, of course. Sure wouldn't be the first time !

Tim

Glenn is replacing his rear main seal.

[noiva]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Glenn is replacing his rear main seal.

Like I said, it sure wouldn't be the first time ! I thought you were commenting on the proposal by Steven for the exchange of pictures. Sorry .

Tim

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by noiva

Like I said, it sure wouldn't be the first time ! I thought you were commenting on the proposal by Steven for the exchange of pictures. Sorry .

Tim

At least it shows someone reads my posts...

[noiva]

Took the 370 out today for its monthly "exercise" and to test all the hose connections from the replacement of all 60 feet of heater hoses on this beast. Good news...not a single leak . I checked every connection at the engine, front heater, and auxiliary rear heater, and not a drop of coolant . I know this sounds insignificant, but since my shoulders are still recovering from all the twisting and contorting I did to get that job done, I was a little concerned something had to leak. Also, it appears the replacement of the air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve, breather element, and some degreasing of spots where there was a little hydraulic "weeping" and tranny gasket "weeping" (but no dripping) has eliminated a rather constant smell of "engine odors" I had been experiencing. I also worked on the fit and gasket of the dog house cover to seal it off a little better. Only engine smells were when I finally parked. That appeared to be just normal exhaust smells, since it quickly dissipated when I cut the engine off. Do any of you experience "engine odors" (not gasoline) when parking a hot engine MoHo? Is that normal, or should I go looking for a source. The engine is clean, with no oil drips or runs of any kind. I don't want to go looking for a "problem" that may not exist .

Tim

[noiva]

Originally Posted by noiva

Took the 370 out today for its monthly "exercise" and to test all the hose connections from the replacement of all 60 feet of heater hoses on this beast. Good news...not a single leak . I checked every connection at the engine, front heater, and auxiliary rear heater, and not a drop of coolant . I know this sounds insignificant, but since my shoulders are still recovering from all the twisting and contorting I did to get that job done, I was a little concerned something had to leak. Also, it appears the replacement of the air filter, fuel filter, pcv valve, breather element, and some degreasing of spots where there was a little hydraulic "weeping" and tranny gasket "weeping" (but no dripping) has eliminated a rather constant smell of "engine odors" I had been experiencing. I also worked on the fit and gasket of the dog house cover to seal it off a little better. Only engine smells were when I finally parked. That appeared to be just normal exhaust smells, since it quickly dissipated when I cut the engine off. Do any of you experience "engine odors" (not gasoline) when parking a hot engine MoHo? Is that normal, or should I go looking for a source. The engine is clean, with no oil drips or runs of any kind. I don't want to go looking for a "problem" that may not exist .

Tim

Anyone have any observations on the engine odors? I'm afraid this post may have gotten buried at the end of this thread.

Thanks,

Tim

[swebster]

Yes, we can smell a "hot engine" smell sometimes when we shutdown.