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Old 01-15-2006, 07:13 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 74Argosy24MH
I just straighten out the run and mount it with cushion clamps inside the frame rail and use hose at either end. Hard copper was used for plumbing for years in rvs without any real problems. As long as it is not solid mounted and put under stress it shouldn't be any different.

I had a 72 SOB that was plumbed completely with copper. It was tubing instead of pipe, but I never had any problems. Main difference was it was all inside the vehicle, and mounted on the walls. No argument that I could have done what you suggest. Two reasons why I didn't - first, I wanted as few joints (potential leaks) as possible, and second, I didn't think of it . My thinking was that the original hoses were still good, so the hose system had to be acceptable, and it's fairly easy to repair should a leak develop on the road. I do appreciate your perspective, and certainly agree that copper plumbing is good stuff.

Thanks, Tim
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:18 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
My 28'er has an aux. heater but it's below the navigators seat. I've been avoiding sorting out the hose loop that I need to replace . I removed the original two cooling hoses with the bus type a/c unit that was hung 2/3 of the way back in the coach when I got it. The hose mess served the a/c unit and the large dual fan condensor that also got trashed and is now the spot where my generator sits. That was a mess of hose.
I'm gonna' get my mechanics gloves out this week and tackle it as Tim has inspired me. I've got to get the rig ready to head to Orlando a week from Monday to start my year at the PGA Merchandise Show.
Glen,

I'm not even sure I know exactly what you've got to do there ! I do remember my dad's Studebakers having their heaters under the seats. Sounds like you had quite a plumbing arrangement . Would like to hear how your sorting of the hoses comes out.

Best, Tim
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Old 01-15-2006, 07:38 AM   #17
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Another suggestion that you hopefully will never need is to go to your local auto parts emporium, and get a heater bypass kit. This consists of a piece of plastic pipe to fit inside your heater hose, and a pair of hose clamps. Thenm if you do have a hose-related failure, and feel like messing with it, you can cut the hose where the leak is, and install the kit, selaling the leak. This is more important for you folks that don't have the dual cutoffs for your heater.
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Old 01-15-2006, 08:00 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by overlander63
Another suggestion that you hopefully will never need is to go to your local auto parts emporium, and get a heater bypass kit. This consists of a piece of plastic pipe to fit inside your heater hose, and a pair of hose clamps. Thenm if you do have a hose-related failure, and feel like messing with it, you can cut the hose where the leak is, and install the kit, selaling the leak. This is more important for you folks that don't have the dual cutoffs for your heater.
I've seen those kits, and several of my traveling buddies wouldn't travel without them. I've been blessed in that I've never blown a hose while on the road, but I don't want to either . Don't they make something similar for radiator hoses? Seems to me I've seen something to quick-fix them also. And, finally, they also have some kind of temporary fan belt fix - if I remember correctly. Probably be a good idea with these somewhat "unusual" Airstream MoHos to carry that kind of stuff. I've already had to learn to tell the NAPA guys what parts I need, since they many times seem to have no idea what my vehicle parts are. Good point, I think, about the hose repair kit .

Tim
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Old 01-15-2006, 08:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noiva
I've seen those kits, and several of my traveling buddies wouldn't travel without them. I've been blessed in that I've never blown a hose while on the road, but I don't want to either . Don't they make something similar for radiator hoses? Seems to me I've seen something to quick-fix them also. And, finally, they also have some kind of temporary fan belt fix - if I remember correctly. Tim
Yes, they have a radiator hose kit that is similar, only larger. And the temporary fan belt kit consists of a rubber "belt" with a notch, and series of slots in it, so you can fit the notch into the slots and have something that may get you to a parts store. It doesn't work too well with serpentine (flat) belts, but it is better than nothing.
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Old 01-15-2006, 09:28 AM   #20
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I would say that having a hose fail UNDER the coach would be bad, but having one fail up where they connect to the heater would mean a catastrophic flood of the INSIDE of the coach!
Yes, it's...uhm...messy. And quite scary if your kids are sitting on the couch when it starts steaming and dumping boiling coolant all over the carpet.

Replacing these in the driveway is definately the place to do this kind of work.
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Old 01-19-2006, 04:31 PM   #21
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Heater Hose Replacement Update

Latest on replacing all the heater hoses in my 370: When I pulled out the auxiliary heater water control valve and valve shut-off cable it was frozen. I assumed it was the valve (which is identical to the one on the front heater, by the way), but it was the cable . Valve actually can be turned completely stop to stop by hand, but the cable has been all day oiling each end and slowly working out the rust that apparently has developed inside the cable over the years. Just about got it working like it's supposed to. Could have left it alone, since it was rusted in the open position, but that means you have hot coolant cruising through the auxiliary heater core even in the summer. (I've put shut-offs at the engine for both heaters, but it's sort of like getting rid of the heater control slide on the dash. Sometimes it can come in handy.) Anyway, just a word of caution to any of you guys with auxiliary heaters. If the shut-off to the heater won't move, check the cable first. Still don't have the hoses run from the aux. heater back to the engine, but I'm hoping for tomorrow. I'm getting tired of having this thing up on ramps and incapacitated.

Tim
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Old 01-20-2006, 08:40 PM   #22
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Talking Finished, Finally

OK, Guys, I've finally finished the hot water hose replacement for the 370. Took about 2 long days, if I had done it all at once (actually took over a week of sporadic working). Took about 60 feet of 5/8 water hose. Original clamps were fine. All straps and internal stainless springs were reused. Had to replace about 6 of the nylon holding straps, since they had to be cut to get the old hoses off. Got the auxiliary heater control cable freed up and working correctly - so now I can cut the auxiliary on and OFF. Put shut-offs at the engine for both hot water sending and return. Cost about $75 total, mostly because the shut-offs were about $17.00 each, but they're the best I could find. Now it's on to fuzzy channel, a carbon monoxide detector, and some other relatively "simple" jobs. The Gear Vendors under/overdrive is scheduled for March. I just knew everyone wanted to hear about these things .

Best, Tim
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Old 01-20-2006, 09:04 PM   #23
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So Tim, where are you planning to have the GV job done?
I wanna watch!!
In a perfect world I'd do that over any other modification ...if I had the $$$.
Right now it's looking like the rear main seal is going to have to get done sooner than later.
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:46 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
So Tim, where are you planning to have the GV job done?
I wanna watch!!
In a perfect world I'd do that over any other modification ...if I had the $$$.
Right now it's looking like the rear main seal is going to have to get done sooner than later.
Glen,

I'm having a transmission shop that has done several of these tranny modifications install the GV in March. You're welcome to watch ! I don't have the money , but I need to get it done before the "travel season" comes. It's a little cheaper to order the gear set myself and pay the tranny shop than to have it all done through GV's contracted shops. They were VERY helpful with suggestions when I talked to them on the phone. I'll keep the gang posted on the results. I've had lots of interest in this project, so I'm assuming many of the Classics could use a 4th gear - although probably not as badly as the 370s . Sorry to hear about the rear main seal, but that shouldn't be a killer, if it's like a car or light truck - I hope .

Best, Tim
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Old 01-24-2006, 05:33 PM   #25
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I'm interested in both projects....rear main seal and GV install. Sooner or later the seals need replacing and we all want just one more gear on these gassers!

I'll take pictures of my tranny rear bushing replacement if you show me yours
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:21 PM   #26
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It's been a while since I had to replace one, but I think the best way to perform this, is to remove the transmisson, and if it is a two piece seal, the oil pan will come down toward the rear. After removing the oil pan, you can remove the rear main cap, with bearing. Be careful not to get dirt in anything, of course. A main seal removal tool is available from Sears, and some auto parts stores. A dollop of STP on it will help it to slide into place. Put some STP on the bearing, and replace the bearing and cap, with the new half seal in the cap. Be sure to torque the main cap, it will probably need 110 foot-pounds, if not more. Install the oil pan with a new gasket (this is a good time to replace the oil pump, they are cheap) and refill the engine with oil. Hopefully by this time the transmission shop is done modifying your transmission for the GV drive, you can then go get it, and install the transmission. I am sure you already know the driveshaft will have to be shortened by the added length of the GV unit, so after installing your transmission, you can head over to the driveshaft shop to pick up your shortened driveshaft. Install the driveshaft, start your motorhome up, and check everything for leaks.
I am sure I made it sound easy.
If your engine has the one piece seal, you should be able to omit all the instructions about removing the oil pan and bearing caps, as the seal SHOULD pop right out the rear, sort of like the newer Ford engines, like Noivia has.
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
I'm interested in both projects....rear main seal and GV install. Sooner or later the seals need replacing and we all want just one more gear on these gassers!

I'll take pictures of my tranny rear bushing replacement if you show me yours
Steven,

You've got a deal ! I'll take pictures of the tranny as it now looks, with the air brake in its present position. (Don't forget it's a Ford C6 because I have the "Limited Edition " 370, but the similarities with other trannies are quite close). Then I'll take pictures of the GV unit when I get it in March. Finally, I'll take some of the installed unit. I hope to have this completed by the end of March or early April, at the latest. If you'll do something similar with your tranny bushing job, we can file each other's pics and comments to help us when we're each faced with the other's project . As you said, I suspect we won't be the only ones interested in these procedures.

Best, Tim
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:43 PM   #28
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(Quote)If your engine has the one piece seal, you should be able to omit all the instructions about removing the oil pan and bearing caps, as the seal SHOULD pop right out the rear, sort of like the newer Ford engines, like Noivia has.


Terry,

If I'm not mistaken, Steven is replacing the rear bushing on his tranny, not the rear main seal on his engine. At least that's what I understood. I could be wrong, of course. Sure wouldn't be the first time !

Tim
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