Header choices

[ALANSD]

On somewhat of a budget for new headers. I found the Hedman at Jegs for good prices depending which model. Any other suggestions? Banks or Gibson are not an option for me.
Also will I be able to use my current exhaust from the headers back? It is in pretty good shape. I should be able to do the work myself, but might opt for a pro installer...(no air tools at my house....yet)

500-69120Full Size Motorhomes,GM
Class ''A'' 1968-91,
396-454 ci.,
1-3/4'' Tubes 3'' Collector

• 16 gauge tubing
• Square port header= $129.99

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Hedman Elite= $309.Class 'A' Motorhomes 68-95
396-454
1-3/4'' Tubes, 3'' Collector Not applicable or intended for street or highway use. Legal only for racing vehicles which may never be used upon a highway.
Without smog injection or injection heads.
Modification to stock exhaust required to retain catalytic converter.
Not legal for sale or use in California on pollution controlled motor vehicles.
Must use factory big block chevy hardware & mounts.
Must use 1975 and later model clutch linkage located at rear of engine.

($328 from Summit racing Equipment)
VendorHedman HeddersProduct LineHedman Street HeddersHeader MaterialSteelHeader FinishPaintedHeader StyleFull lengthPrimary Tube Diameter (in)1 3/4Collector Diameter (in)3Equal LengthNoPrimary Tube Length (in)(Not Specified)Primary Tube Gauge16-gaugeCollector Attachment3-bolt flangeCylinder Head Port Shape(Not Specified)Flange StyleStandardFlange Thickness (in)1/4Bolts/Studs IncludedYesGaskets IncludedYesReducers IncludedYesY-pipe IncludedNoQuantitySold as a pair.Notes(Not Specified)Footnote LegendHED

[swebster]

Alan,
Go for it. That's what I put on mine. Budget Banks

I went ahead and replaced everything because my old exhaust was a PO mess. I went 3" into 2 1/4" sticks, added an H pipe just aft of the transmission. You may consider adding this H-pipe as well then connect up to your old mufflers. They don't cost much and should help with the overall "balance" of the system. No better time then now to install this.

I bought some "flexible" collector transitions which gave me enough play to line everything up using all of the old mounting points.

I would also recommend getting your hands on a cheap electric die grinder/cutoff. It'll make the job go more smoothly.

I had some real scares during the manfold removal process. This is the risky part. Once the old stuff is out the new stuff is pretty much bolt up.

[59toaster]

The flexible connection at the collector and a thick flange are the two best things to do to keep from having to replace gaskets every 6 months.

[74Argosy24MH]

Same as I used also. Start soaking everything with PB Blaster as soon as you can, it will dissolve the rust.

PAW might have a better price. They mail order but don't internet (unless you have part #s) so you will have to call. Catalogs are $5 but if you order from them they will throw one in the box. They usually beat Jegs and Summitt.

John

[Warbs]

If you're buying headers because you have a cracked or leaking manifold, you might want to try this cheap fix first. I've been told that there is often no exhaust gaskets in the 454 motors and if you put a set in it sometimes fixes the problem. Just a thought.

[swebster]

Start soaking everything with PB Blaster as soon as you can, it will dissolve the rust.

I used an entire can on my exhaust project. Great stuff and after a while I really got to like that smell. Then I would see all the pretty purple elephants.