Has anyone ever removed their air conditioning from engine compartment

[Mr. D]

I am currently going through my entire cooling system on my '88 345 at home. I have taken out the radiators, which include oil, trans, air conditioning, and engine. I have replaced the thermostat, water pump, fan clutch, all hoses, belts, and even the fuel pump for good measure. My question is that I am planning on leaving my engine air conditioning disconnected. I plan to leave the air conditioning radiator off and disconnect and plug the hoses to the compressor. I also plan to install the electric fans back in place(minus the a/c radiator) so that I can turn them on if the need for extra cooling ever occurs. Has anyone ever done these things? and if so, are there any concerns I should address while doing this? Hope to hear from someone soon. I am in the process of painting compartment parts and putting everything back together. Thanks, Mr. D.

P.S. on another issue, does anyone no where I can get replacement wood grain tape for the exterior of my '88 345. I am restoring my grill and hood door while I have it apart. Some of the wood grain tape has chipped away.

[lewster]

D,

From a technical standpoint, you should be OK with removing the A/C radiator. In fact, it should enhance the air flow to your engine radiator in the process and increase it's efficiency.

As far as the wood grained tape, try your local sign shop. They should be able to get you a simulated wood grain vinyl tape from their suppliers that would do the job nicely.

[guy99]

If you're going to take out you AC condenser coils (radiator), why not also remove the compressor, you'd be reducing weight and another source of failure. You'd have to work out new belt routing.

[klattu]

Sounds like a good idea...so many do not work.
About 150 lbs off the front end too.

[Chaplain Kent]

Originally Posted by Mr. D

I also plan to install the electric fans back in place(minus the a/c radiator) so that I can turn them on if the need for extra cooling ever occurs.

Does the 345 have an external vent for fresh air? I was never able to replace my dash AC after the dash job due to a broken fan blade which can not be replaced. Chummy is stuffy when we drive and needs air. I was wondering how to put in s fresh air vent or get fresh air into the cab without opening the windows.

[overlander63]

Kent, I have seen vents to the outside that blow on your feet. These are small square aluminum vent covers with a screen to keep the six-legged beasties out while it's open. It is hinged on the rear of the vent door, and a friction lever holds it open or closed. You should be able to get one for the co-pilot as well as yourself.

[Chaplain Kent]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Kent, I have seen vents to the outside that blow on your feet. These are small square aluminum vent covers with a screen to keep the six-legged beasties out while it's open. It is hinged on the rear of the vent door, and a friction lever holds it open or closed. You should be able to get one for the co-pilot as well as yourself.

Maybe this should be a new thread; however, without a dash AC and even with a fan blowing the interior gets stuffy so this is something to consider. I thought about putting holes in the floor for vents but that will also lead to the possibility of exhaust coming in. What I need to do is channel some kind of vent to the front. That is why I wondered if the 345 has an outside fresh air vent.

[Mr. D]

Kent...the only air supply on my '88 345 is from the dash mounted vent button. This simply uses the same air as the heating system and is not truly a direct fresh air source as I think you are asking. On another note...I have put my entire rig back together and still I run around 205 to 215 degrees. What a disappointment. I replaced all my belts, hose, water pump, therostate, fan clutch, had the radiator flushed, removed the air conditioning radiator, increased the size of both the oil and tranny coolers, I really thought I was going to be ready for desert and mountain driving. I also rewired the electric fans to run in front of the radiators! Does anyone have an idea? Mr. D.

[bobchevy89]

Hello,
Don't forget that when you remove the A/C from operation , to get the fans to work you have to turn on the A/C control on,( like if the A/C was still on and running.) the fans run off the ac controls...
Bob

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent

Maybe this should be a new thread; however, without a dash AC and even with a fan blowing the interior gets stuffy so this is something to consider. I thought about putting holes in the floor for vents but that will also lead to the possibility of exhaust coming in. What I need to do is channel some kind of vent to the front. That is why I wondered if the 345 has an outside fresh air vent.

These vents mount on the outside skin, just above floor level.

[Chuckles]

You are all treading the same path I intend to go shortly.

The AC on our 310 has never worked (Not connected) since a rebuild by a previous owner in 1987 following an engine fire.

My thoughts are to fabricate a damper/vent similar to those found in 1940's & 50's cars, fixed to the front panel behind the grill, more or less at foot level, and using flaps, direct air through the existing plenum for air distribution. The main obstacle as I see it, is making it weatherproof to combat driving rain, and simple and efficient control.

I intend to remove the AC compressor complete with the heat exchanger and all ancillaries; Bring the main radiator forward as far as possible, and move the oil coolers to each side. Each heat exchanger/radiator to have its own thermostatically controlled fan - removing the engine fan will also improve fuel consumption by 10-12% -. By moving the Rads forward and sideways, that will allow more air to flow in and around the engine.

We recently had some very hot weather here (yes it does happen in the UK!) and during a trip to London on the hottest day Mary and I survived - only just! But it would have been a lot more comfortable with a good flow of fresh air, which the 310 doesn't have. There is absolutely no fresh air vents in the front all.

So I will keep a close watch on this thread, and hopefully with an exchange of ideas, it will work!

[Chuckles]

Originally Posted by Mr. D

........... I really thought I was going to be ready for desert and mountain driving. I also rewired the electric fans to run in front of the radiators! Does anyone have an idea? Mr. D.

Watch what type of fan you are using - there are "pullers" and "pushers" describing the air flow in relation to the heat exchanger.

Can you obtain the Kenlowe Fan in the USA. These are very high volume "Pusher" fans specifically designed to cool radiators and oil coolers. They also come with a thermostatic control, therefor the engine temperature is controlled by the engine thermostat, and the radiator cooled by its own 'stat.

If you need more info I will contact them, for information.

[silver buffalo]

Mr D
How much of the wood grain decal do you need? I was going to replace all of it on my 310 but have decided to do something different so I have a 100' roll of decal that comes very close to matching the original. Depending on how much sun fade and weathering yours has, it should be pretty close.

[Pat370]

Rick Hill, thats a very common name for a 310 owner. I have a good freind that owns a 1984 310 MH from Minn.
His name is also Rick Hill.

Have a great day,

Pat 370

[silver buffalo]

Pat - I have been telling my wife all along that it was destiny we ended up with the 310.
I wonder what that makes the percentage, "Rick Hill's that own 310's"? Let's see, if there are 50 on the road today, that would be 4% that are owned by Rick Hill's.
That's got to be the highest ratio of something somewhere to someone???

[Chaplain Kent]

I had taken my dash air out when I was unable to replace the "squirrel cage" fan blades. However, I have now found a perfect replacement in the paint department of my local Tru Valu. Sold as a paint stirrer was my squirrel cage fan blade mounted to the end of a metal rod. I bought one and took it off of the metal rod and then put it on the motor for the AC, perfect fit and can not tell the difference from the original, other than it is not broken. I will drill a hole for a set screw so this one does not get warped like the last one. Now I have a winter project, replacing my AC.

[zamboni]

try this for a air intake scoop, www.summitracing.com.
search air intake scoop.

[choctawmel]

I have a fresh air inlet behind the right headlight on my '86 345.
I would kill anyone who took my dash air out! It does get hot in Oklahoma.
The engine runs about 200-210 whether I run the a/c or not.
I put a flex-a-lite thermostat controlled electric fan engine oil cooler under the front bumper, then I put my trany cooler in front of that. Works great! The fan only comes on when I traffic, unless I count the time I (didn't know)ran into bunch of bugs and it stopped it up. The trany gauge went up like a rocket!
choctawmel

[Mr. D]

Hey Rick...I only need enough to do my front engine compartment hatch..I would guess about six feet would cover my needs...the rest of the coach is in good shape...Mr. D

[klattu]

There is a outside opening somewhere on my '89
It must be close to the engine as I found out coming back from Topsail back in January...
Had a large backfire starting off from a red light that produced a puff of smoke from under the 'hood'
Miliseconds later , the smoke was coming out the AC vents inside.
Was very tense for a few moments.

Cause was a blocked exhaust crossover valve.
Intake got very hot, and when I hit the gas starting off, it hit the hot surface of intake and puffed.

I'm going to keep mine in place until it gives trouble, or cost too much to fix.