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Old 10-27-2006, 08:32 PM   #29
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Ouch! Well it'll never happen again
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Old 10-28-2006, 11:03 AM   #30
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Just a throught. I have experienced this kind of problem with a bad plug "wire" after you disturbed it you got continuity. It's a cheap fix and worth a try. Good luck
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:02 PM   #31
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We have an Onan NH65 that starts and runs for a minute and then starts spewing black smoke and dies. We took it in for repair, got a new choke, tuneup, fuel pump, and a head gasket on #2. It ran ok, twice for about a half hour each time, and now is back to its black smoke and dying. Two unresolved issues after the $800 plus repair by the Cummins Onan folks. was, they couldn't get a carburetor, and also they needed to replace fuel line but would have to have drained the (full) fuel tank to get at it.

They also said they found threaded stock in place of cylinder head studs on the #2 side and had to helicoil them and put in bolts,

What Mr. Auretrv is looking to do is locate a carburetor or kit that includes a float and valve, re-check compression, and replace the fuel line.

We're hoping the problem is either in the float valve or choke, and that a carb kit, fuel line will get it going again.

The Onan is 6.5 KW and could run both A/C,s at once if desired. Also we are hoping it would be repairable for significantly less than the cost of a replacement.

Any similar black smoking genset death stories would be appreciated!
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Old 02-17-2007, 06:14 PM   #32
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Black smoke usually means too rich a mixture. I agree that a compression check is in order. Not sure what you meant by "threaded stock"...did they mean studs or cheap stock from Home Depot?

Replacing the fuel line can be done when the coach reaches 1/4" tank. The generators are plumbed in at that level so you don't run the tank dry when boondocking somewhere.

I absolutely agree on the carb. Try removing it, and cleaning the jets with carb cleaner. There are only a couple of gaskets in there so sometimes a really good bench cleaning will do the trick. Also adjust the needle in to reduce the mixture.

What do your plugs look like?

Lastly, it is possible you have an ignition issue as well. Check the points, circuits, etc. I chase a lot of gremlins out of my Onan and it almost always turned out to be electrical.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:08 PM   #33
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Another (ex) pilot here. 1500 plus hours. IFR. Nearly all in a Piper Six-300. I hope to live long enough to enjoy never, ever having to fly an airplane again!

Some of you suffered, along with me, during the recent ice storm and extended power outage here in Missouri. My 19 year old generator ran great for day one, pretty good on day 2, intermittently on day 3 (running rich, fouling the plug), and had gas pouring out of the carb on day 4.

To cut to the chase, I discovered that the carburator float didn't. After a period of extended use the float was soaking up enough gas so that it sank! A new float and it runs as good as new.

Mark
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:52 PM   #34
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Well, to make a long post longer... I had no further trouble with the generator for some time and finally desided it was due for a carb overhaul. (new Carb) when the starter crapped out. The cost of the new carb was cheap enough that it seemed a good idea.
The AS dealer here locally did the work and informed me as I picked it up that the flywheel took quite a hit when the starter caved in. Why they didn't mention that when they had it apart was beyond me.
So now the Generac 40 works great, sometimes you have to hit the starter until you find a spot where the teeth happen to be but it works as it always did.
So now the bus is back in the shop getting the new Honda 6010 installed. I figured the Generac with it's 6-7000 hours might be reaching a limit of it's service life with me and the Honda was a deal.
I can't wait to have the extra power and dedicated circuit for the A/C.
The old Generac will go back onto it's original spot on the old Coachman that I hope someone will buy before the end of the month so I don't have to relicense it.

On the flying front it looks like I'm out of medical AGAIN!! Time to go visit the doc.... maybe soon I'll get a chance to go do a BFR?
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:08 AM   #35
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Hi Guys,
My Onan in my 1988 Classic stops running as soon as I release the start button. It will run fine as long as the button is held in (fortunately this has not damaged the starter). It starts up great, runs great, comes on line with AC power, but my finger gets tired pressing the start button. Oil and gas levels are full.
It seems to me that a relay is not changing state as this problem has gotten progressively worse. Some days it would start and run as it should but not anymore. I will see if I can find and bypass the oil pressure switch and the fuel level sensor switch. Any other suggestions?
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Old 06-25-2007, 06:17 PM   #36
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AccessMaster,
I know this sounds simple, but one time I was pressing the button on the genset while the switch in the cabin was in the "off" position.

Don't know if y'all remember, but last summer I gave up and took the genset to Onan and they told me I had low oil. $103 and problem fixed. Since then I've been starting her every month just to keep things going - no problems.

So I'm getting ready to make the first trip of the season and I start her up, let it warm up, then I go inside and turn on both A/C units for a test and it kills the genset. I turn everything back off, and try to re-start. Now it starts and runs for 10 sec. then cuts out. I want to check the "low oil switch" but from my past, I know that when this switch activates black smoke pours out - and this is not happening.

What I've done so far:
1. pulled jets and sprayed carb cleaner in holes.
2. pulled the fuel line to carb and sprayed gas everywhere
3. pulled both plugs to check for spark and gap. (plugs were at .015 - maual says .025 and plate on unit says .025 but someone here said .015 was right)
4. used mirror to watch throttle body and saw steady stream of gas spraying in.
5. checked points gap.
6. added more oil - just over the "full" line.
7. added more oil - .5 qt more (I'll try anything at this point)

How can just adding a heavy load to the unit cause it to go into this tailspin of operation? It was running just great for so long now.

-Kevin
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Old 06-27-2007, 12:40 AM   #37
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If you take out the main and idle fuel adjustment screws is there supposed to be an o-ring or rubber gasket under the spring?
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Old 08-10-2007, 09:37 PM   #38
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Onan Run Rich and Die Problem Solved...

OK, in my case the culprit was the carburetor float valve. Also, I discovered you can place the electric choke spring backwards and cause it to try to close instead of trying to open when the engine is started and warming up. One of those binary choice errors.

If you have an Onan 6.5 and do not have the Airstream or Onan instructions for calibrating the governor and jets, I can provide them. If the idle and main jets aren't reasonably close to correct adjustment, then adding a load will cause the unit to go down.

Now the gen runs smooth, although I haven't checked the brushes yet and the time clock died at 1140 hours before I acquired the unit. That'll be my next chore.

Thanks.
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