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Old 01-03-2003, 04:18 AM   #15
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Thanks for all of the links and suggestions. They have been a great heat help.

I ordered the 1903 last night. Well it is a factory refurb 1903 so they call it a 9973. I decided to stay with the hot air style choke as it is what I am used to. The funny thing is that the model number stamped on my carb does not have a direct match in Eldebrocks list. I spoke to there tech guy and he said that is a rare occurance.

I mostly run in Florida so I am at sea level. I would assume (Bad word) that the carb will be set up for operation from sea level to a 1000~ ft.

We have a rally we are attending on Jan 16-19th so I will need to get it installed ASAP. I am sure I will have more questions as this is my first time doing a carb replacement.
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Old 01-26-2003, 10:39 AM   #16
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Update:

The carb I initally ordered was not the right model. I ordered the hot air choke model and I needed the divorced choke model. I ended up sending it back, and getting the electric choke model. It arrived on Fri. and I have not yet had the chance to get greasy.

Looking at pre install I have two questions.

In previous posts it is mentioned to feed 12 VDC to the electric choke. Do I need to be concerned with cutting off the current to the choke feed to stop it?

The current carb has the fuel line going straight into the front of it, the new one is pointing toward the passenger side of the motor. So do I need to look for a new line to connect it or just cut the old line with a tubing cutter and mend it with gas line and clamps?

BTW I went with the 795CFM as a number of online calculators said I needed 700+ CFM for best performance.

Thanks for all of your sage advice on this.
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Old 01-26-2003, 11:25 AM   #17
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Run the 12v off ignition, the choke will only use it when it needs it. The gas line is probably double flared, about all you can do is use a short piece of rubber line and a brass barb (good time to stick one of the cheapy clear inline fuel filters in too).

John
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Old 01-26-2003, 04:08 PM   #18
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John,

My toughts exactly on the filter if I am going to reroute it with a flexible gas line.

Thanks for the reassurance, I will start on the project this week!

BTW my dear wife informed me this afternoon she wants new flooring in the MH in time for the sarasota rally! Feb 17-23rd!!!!!!!!!! I have not even figured out hw much plywood I need to replace yet!! I think I am going to thave to tell her to hold on. I will try to have it done before mystic springs.

I have to replace the water heater before sarasota as ours works on 120V Only. I ordered a new one today.
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Old 01-26-2003, 07:16 PM   #19
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One other thought for you- there are insulators you can put under the carb, about 1/4" thick that do a good job of keeping the heat out of it. You will probably need longer studs. The mainfolds on these are pretty flat, but check your clearance on the engine cover.

John
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Old 01-26-2003, 07:31 PM   #20
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This carb came packaged with some type of insulator plate. I was planning on installing it to help with heat transfer. I am also gonig to take a page out of your book and get the intake air nozzle extended to a point in front of the radiator to try to draw in cooler air.
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Old 01-26-2003, 08:41 PM   #21
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Brett, make sure that you don't need an adapter plate to mount the Edelbrock. If your mounting bolts line up, assure clearance with the intake manifold and the primary and secondary flaps on the bottom.
Which model # did you end up getting? The EDL-1906 reman?
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Old 01-26-2003, 09:30 PM   #22
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Peter,

I guess I will find out when I pull the old carb. There looks to be a thin steel adapter plate in between the current carb and the intake manifold. I purchased the reman 1904.

The install kit included the gaskets and a quarter inch thick black plate that is made out of a non metallic substance. I assume it is a gasket/insulatator. I will check to see if the current carb vs. new clearances are diffrent. I have enough space under the doghouse cover to put in whatever adapter plate or gasket I need. Now I just need to find the proper shaped crimp on spade to connect the electric choke.
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Old 02-06-2003, 06:47 PM   #23
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Thumbs up

Well. it looks like a beat Brett to the installation of a new Edelbrock. I ordered the edl-1906 and installed it last night.
Switch over was easy, no adapter plate needed. The electric choke had a strange L-shape + terminal. I drilled a small hole and used a screw and a ring connector. Fast idle solenoid did not fit linkage, so I ordered an adapter plate (EDL-1997), if it works fine, if not I will live without it.
Idle mixture needed minor adjustments, which takes a special tool. I made one from a TV antenna and fitted it before installing the carb.
Improvements:
better starting
stable and smooth idle
better choke function
beautiful throttle response
smooth transition from primary to secondary
No more gas fumes after engine shut down
No more dieseling!!!
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Old 02-06-2003, 07:58 PM   #24
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I ran out of time, so I had my mechanic install mine. Says it is running smooth, but I won't get to try it until saturday. Peter, I would be interested in hearing more regarding your adjustment to the carb.

I would have done it myself, but I have way to busy at work. I refused to let the RV place install my new water heater, so that is my weekend project. It is sitting in the garage waiting for the MH to come home. I went Gas/Electric with a standing pilot.

Besides installing the carb I am having the flex lines for the brakes replaced, and the master cylinder/booster checked and a new starter installed. Brakes seemed a bit mushy on the last trip and the starter started to act weird as well. Now I should be ready for the trek to the Sarasota rally in late feb!
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Old 02-06-2003, 09:35 PM   #25
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I don't have a motorhome but have turned a few wrenches in my time and just wanted to add my 2 cents. Wouldn't you fella's would be better off putting factory TBI or Holley Projection on your beasts? Carburetors are for the birds!!

(I know you Californians probably have your hands tied)

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Old 02-06-2003, 10:03 PM   #26
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the 1900 series Edelbrocks Q-jets are stock replacements, unlike the Edelbrock Performance series, which need adaptors and other modifications. For me its once an Edelbrock always an Edelbrock. Since you live so close, come over on a Sat/Sun and I let you run him up and down Loop 1.Let's see what ya think.
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Old 02-07-2003, 06:26 AM   #27
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Fuel injection is easily a $1000 swap and a lot of work; the sensors need to be mounted/installed, the ECM must be located (make and route a new harness), the fuel pump, distributor, and fuel lines have to be changed, adapt the throttle body to the mainfold (or swap manifolds, but there is limited clearance under the engine cover).

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Old 02-07-2003, 06:53 PM   #28
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Talking

Yeah, what John said!
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