I had power when I first started to investage the problem. I've not had a chance to look it over today but will this afternoon. There are two connections on the oil sending unit. I assume one of them is for the pump, same color white. does'nt seem to be any power to the unit. I'll check the fuse box also. should be in the glove box.
Have a good weekend. lobsters are soft shell this month .
One quick thought, although you may have already verified this. The oil pressure safety switch is there for a reason. If the engine has low oil pressure, the safety switch won't allow the pump to deliver fuel. There's supposed to be a start bypass terminal, but on some older switches, if the oil level is too low, the switch won't open and the fuel pump will never run. Have you checked your engines oil level?
John-Boy
__________________ Sarchasm (n): The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.
1975 31' Sovereign
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 'Laramie', HEMI
I just need to figure out how to wire the electric pump!
If you can tell me the brand or model of pump (or color, red=Holley #12-801, blue= Holley #12-802 and so on), I can probably tell you how to wire it. If you're purchasing a new pump, make sure it's a 'rotary vane' type, not diaghram, and spend the extra bucks for a fuel pump relay, you and the pump will be much happier.
John-Boy
__________________ Sarchasm (n): The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.
1975 31' Sovereign
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 'Laramie', HEMI
What would you recommend for a rear electrical fuel pump? It seems it will requiere a 15lbs pressure capacity from what I understand.
Thank you for the help!
Francois.
I would recommend the Carter # P4070, or similar. It's 72 GPH @ 4-6 psi. A carbureted engine only needs 2-3 pounds at constant loads. Even a Holey Red or Blue pump would be fine though. The Holley Blue pump is a very common pump on an RV, and delivers 110 GPH @ 15psi. It's capable of pushing fuel the entire length of the coach. Holley has been having some quality control issues lately though, so it's not my first choice right now. The maximum working pressure for any carb would be 7lbs, after that the pressure holds the needle and seat open and floods the carb. It's a good idea to keep the fuel pump pressure at or near the maximum though because under a heavy sustained load, the 2-3 pounds can drop to zero.
Most RV's that have an electric fuel pump usually maintain a mechanical pump mounted to the engine. This precludes the need to run a regulator, and is the reason you need to run a rotary vane style pump, which is pretty much all you'll find on RVs. The mechanical pump (which can pull the fuel from the tank) 'is' the regulator for the system. The electric pump, which can push fuel, but is lousy at pulling it, is used to keep the mechanical pump supplied. The mechanical pump will not allow over 6 psi to go passed it. The rotary vane style pumps are not only internally bypassing, allowing the extra pressure to bleed off, but can allow (some) fuel to pass through the vanes, drawn by the mechanical pump, even if the electric pump isn't working.
I hope this helps,
John-Boy
__________________ Sarchasm (n): The gulf between the author of sarcastic wit and the person who doesn't get it.
1975 31' Sovereign
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 'Laramie', HEMI
Found my fuel filter. It was inside the frame rail behind the battery-starter cable line and other stuff, no wonder I could not see it. Used my big drop light to shed some on the subject.
Replaced it and the carb filter, then spent two hours playing with the filler neck hose on the radiator. Had to remove the filler neck to get the hose replaced, the 3/8 screw that hold the neck on was tough to get to.
Next- flush and redo coolant, oil&filter,and ready to go again.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
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