I had power when I first started to investage the problem. I've not had a chance to look it over today but will this afternoon. There are two connections on the oil sending unit. I assume one of them is for the pump, same color white. does'nt seem to be any power to the unit. I'll check the fuse box also. should be in the glove box.
Have a good weekend. lobsters are soft shell this month .
AIR IS NOW OUT OF THE LINE. As I stated, I installed a water separator to remove any large chuncks of rust from the tank so as not to be replacing filters each day. It worked very well and the rust problem is to much better. I also ran a line off the separator to feed the GEN. knowing I could run out of gas running it from the same pick up line in the tank .
However As the pumps are working, and pulling fuel I was pulling air from the Gen line into the separator ,point of least reisitance, and on to the electric pump. I have installed a flow check valve in the GEN. line to prevent the back flow . When I pull the tank this fall I will repair and replace all lines in and out of the tank and go back to OEM design.
Still not getting power to the electric fuel pump. Checked the sending unit on the block, hot wired the line and still nothing. I'm running another line from the fues pannel to a swich and will manualy turn it on and off again till the fall.
Thanks again to each of you for your input and help.
Hello ,
Where did you get your flow check valve?
I have a simular problem with my fuel running back to the tank, causing long crank times on my generator.
Thanks,
George
I am having similar problems. I checked for a rear electrical fuel pump, there is none that I found. I will then replace the mechanical one for now. I have never touched a fuel pump before. (I did two cooling systems before on other vehicles) It seems pretty straight forward, but is there anything I should be aware of? Like draining oil first...?
ALL the fuel filters and lines seem new and in perfect shape. However I found the "secret" fuel filter that Steven talked about, the one in the carb, but from what I read there should be one more, where?
Last, what electrical fuel pump would you recomend for the rear?
As a general PM, all the fuel lines should be replaced every 10 years or so.
Certainly, a fuel line that is almost 20 years old, especially when a large flow is required, is almost gauranteed to have cracks that will leak air, but only on high demand.
Most 345's had the electric fuel pumps. It too should be replaced or overhauled every 10 years or so.
PM is always the name of the game. Push it to the limits and it will reward you with failure.
Also the 345 fuel pickup can only be reached by dropping the tank.
Replace the other gaskets as well when the tank is down.
The mechanical pump runs off a pushrod that is driven by a lobe on the cam. The only problem will be holding the pushrod up when trying to reinstall. There should be a pipe plug behind the pump, pull this and the push rod will come out. Put a dab of grease on the end of the pushrod (cold engine or the grease will melt) and push it against the cam (long screw driver, small extension), it will hold so you can get the arm beneath it.
I think these lines must have been replaced not too long ago because they look really good and firm. I have to check the paperwork to see when.
Thanks John,
I will follow your direction. From the look of it, it seems that I don't need to remove the tire. I will be ordering the Chassis manual next month but I still want to take care of this before.
What would you recommend for a rear electrical fuel pump? It seems it will requiere a 15lbs pressure capacity from what I understand.
I crawled around under my 280 and looked for a rear fuel filter, did not see one. Anyone else have one on their smaller than a 345 unit? I plan to add one and will do so this winter.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
One on the frame rail inside the pass side front tire. A second one in the carb. I carry spares of both. I know that peter added a marine style screw on cartridge filter right at the output of his tank. I am considering the same thing. The little frame rail filters seem to clog up really fast on mine
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan
Wise men talk because they have someting to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
In politics, absurdity is not a handicap— Napoleon
I did not follow the line all the way to the front, figured any other than at the carb woudl be in back.
I will look again, thanks.
I have seen a the screw on type at Jeg's. Guess I will invest in one of those.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
What would you recommend for a rear electrical fuel pump? It seems it will requiere a 15lbs pressure capacity from what I understand.
15 lbs. is too high, it will hold the needle off the seat and flood the engine. 5 or 6 lbs. will do it. You need volume more than pressure, it is a long way through small lines from the carb to the tank.
I looked again for the fuel filters, and I think there are only two of them:
-1 in the frame behind the battery compartiment
-1 in the carb.
John says volume is more important than pressure, which should be then at around 8lbs, but what is a good volume? It seems some of them go pretty high, 150gpH?
....John says volume is more important than pressure, which should be then at around 8lbs, but what is a good volume? It seems some of them go pretty high, 150gpH?
Francois:
8 psi should be OK. If you have a carbureted engine, you just have to push the gasoline to the mechanical fuel pump......most 454's have a regulator built into the mechanical fuel pump which sends the "excess" volume of gasoline back to the fuel tank (this decreases the pressure to the float in the carb). This is not the case in newer fuel injection systems - they do not have a mechanical fuel pump.
150 gph should be fine - I have recorded a low of 4 mpg at cruise - figure 60 mph - this works out to 15 gph - I would not go too much less than 150 gph - at full throttle (taking off from a stop or pulling a steep grade) the 4 bbl carb is going to suck a LOT of go juice.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Quick Links
air in line
Linear Mode
