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Old 04-14-2004, 08:36 AM   #15
Rivet Master
LOST , Hawaii
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OBD1 is pretty primitive, software is nice but you really don't need it. The only real benefit is you can watch in real time as opposed to after the fact, watch individual sensors, etc. I didn't get software until OBD2 came out, you can't get codes with it thru the check engine light like OBD1. The software is user friendly, not a bitstream, there are various screens, mostly what I have used are the code screens which relate to faults. You also can't clear OBD2 faults by unhooking the battery, it must be done thru software. If you are only going to use it for the mh, I would stick with a jumper and save the money for $1.78 a gallon gas.

You posted the codes, doesn't make sense for me to duplicate.


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Old 04-14-2004, 10:23 AM   #16
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Atlanta , Georgia
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Originally Posted by smily
I have laptop.
I read that cable assembly is 37 dollars, no biggy.
But when I read about the data stream provided by software, i was intimidated because disclaimer says, interpretation is on the owner. I was expecting software with nice easy graphical interface. What software have you seen and what was the enviroment like? Was it easy to use like a windows enviroment or just lots of bitstream info?

It's not bad. You have screens that you can skip though and it gives you tables of the readings. Stuff like the O2 your going to have a mid point reading and it will give you the actual reading. Once you know the "Normal" reading then it's easy to see a problem. I have also seen a version of simular softwear that will give you a analog looking reading on a dial for stull like RPM and the speed reading off the VSS (this reads ground speed at either the speedometer cruse control pick up or if new enough it will have a electronic speedometer and the VSS will be where the spedometer cable use to be). Readings like Temp are going to beconverted to a close to actual reading. Some stuff is just going to be a on and off indications. The version I veiwed showed the O2 reading always. Then it had a indicator to show if it was closed or open loop.

It's not really that intimidating once your realise you just looking at what individual readings for each sensor. Stuff like TPS unless your looking for a problem your not going to care about 99% of the time. The only time you would need that info is when setting it up. From there the failure would be loss of signal so very easy to spot.

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1988 R20 454 Suburban.
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Old 04-14-2004, 05:53 PM   #17
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1994 36' Classic 36
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Well, came home, cleared codes by removing negative cable of Battery.
( I wish I had not), I started engine and let it run for half hour.
No noticeable problems. I wish I ahd checked codes before clearing, maybe the MAP sensor code or whatever the problem was would have shown up in codes. Now, codes are good because corrected problem

turned off engine and did code check, I get 12 three times, four times, five times, etc.............. I get 12 continuosly.

So I took for test drive, hard test drive, pedal to metal kinda test drive for 15 miles. Runs great! No hesitation, no cut off at stops, perfect.

I am hoping that discovering MAP sensor connection was fix to problem.

Of course Murphys law may prevail and get me about 300 miles from home
But I hope not. The problem did come on kinda suddenly. I did not have any problems on any prior trips. I did change some plug wires and check fluids etc.. before hitting road this time, maybe I knocked connection loose and did not know it.

Crossing fingers,
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Old 04-14-2004, 06:49 PM   #18
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Sounds like it is fixed to me. If you don't clear the old codes you can chase problems that aren't there. If it is running strong and there isn't a code I'd cruise on down the road.


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