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Old 12-14-2015, 12:19 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by mayco View Post
So there are a number of different brands of 4x6 LED sealed beam headlights available on Amazon. Since we are discussing 12v improvements and have identified the headlight switch as being one of the most potentially problematic chassis 12v systems, are these LED headlights worth pursuing? If Im understanding correctly, this GM switch is questionable in its ability to handle the amperage draw in our Classics. Once we have changed out our running lights to LED, is the next logical step to change out our headlights to LED?
To me the next logical step would be to add headlight relays. LED headlights would be nice and would definitely draw less current but I would still use relays.

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There is a thread here somewhere about someone who did this but I cant seem to find it right now. At face value it seems that this would be on our lists of improvements but am I missing something about changing the headlights out to LEDs? Are there associated wiring difficulties in doing it? I assume the connectors at the lights may need changing, are there other considerations? I am thinking that once you change the running lights and headlights to LEDs that it would help solve the light switch issue.
I am unaware of any wiring/connector difficulties but then again I haven't made the conversion myself as yet. I will however definitely be adding relays no matter if I use halogen, LEDs or candles for headlights

Quote:
Some questions I have are 1. How to insure youre buying a quality, long lasting light. 2. Why There is such a wide difference in price range for the LED headlights? 3. How to determine the correct bulbs for high and low beams? I dont see them listed this way, some have wattage but I dont have a clue what the wattage SHOULD be for low or high beam.
4. Is there some standard connector that was used during that time period or did it vary according to make n model? Would we want a GM compatable connector or is there such a thing?
When you come up with that information I'd like to hear about it!

Quote:
Ive got to be missing something because this seems too easy at face value. Please school me if youre willing.

Mike
I'm actually hoping it is as easy as plugging new LED bulbs in and turning on the switch

Brad
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:26 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
On this similar subject, what is the deal on the LED clearance lights?
someone bought some recently, but I cant find it...
I know they are "Double Bulls eye" style, but what are the best ones?
I bought all of my marker and tail lights from Dan at LEDs 4 RVs

Dan even developed a special combination marker/blinker light for me to use for the side marker lights.

Brad
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Old 12-14-2015, 01:47 PM   #45
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sounds like a good research project for me over the winter.
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Old 12-14-2015, 06:21 PM   #46
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Digging deeper into the alt wiring.
According to the previous owner, this alternator is a 100 amp, was replaced just before he sold it and is supposed to have a sense wire that normally would attach to a 4 post isolator.
I have a heavy gauge (I would guess 6 gauge) wire, labeled 2C with a fusible link that goes directly to the isolator.
Then I have a plug with a small gauge Brown wire, labeled 25, which appears to go to the fuse panel and a 10 or 12 gauge red wire, labeled 2G, which according to the wire diagram below connects back with the main heavy gauge wire down the line.
Can someone confirm that this alt does not have a sense wire and explain to me in simple terms what the 2 plug wires do ?
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Old 12-14-2015, 07:32 PM   #47
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Large wire is B+ output, that's the one that carries the big current, you want to upgrade from the stock 6 or 8 gauge wire to the largest wire that doesn't pose a problem due to weight, bend radius, or stress on the alternator terminal. Some aftermarket alternators have oversized output posts to deal with that.

Don't lose sight of the ground, that carries just as much current as the B+, best to add a ground wire of the same gauge as the B+ wire from the alternator frame to the - terminal on the batteries. Don't rely on engine/chassis ground for this if you are trying to get the most from your alternator.

Sense wire should attach to the + battery cable as close to the batteries as possible. The stock location is chosen for ease of assembly, not performance. Connecting it to one of the battery terminals on the isolator is a fine way to do it.

The remaining wire serves two purposes. It provides field power to the alternator, and also operates the charging system malfunction light. Traditionally it is connected to a 12v incandescent lamp that has its other terminal connected to the "ignition on" terminal of the key switch. If the idiot light isn't needed a resistor can be used instead. For some models of alternator you can leave out the lamp and connect it straight to +12v switched, but not all alternators will tolerate this.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:43 PM   #48
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thanks Jammer.
Armed with your info, this is what the wiring looks like on my alternator:
B+ 6 gauge wire (i think it is 6 gauge) to Isolator center post
B- NO WIRE present, I can only see a bolt that is not tightened down
red 10 gauge sense wire appears to be going to the starter bat+ terminal
brown 16 gauge going to idiot light via fuse box

Isolator:
Top wire (6 gauge) going to coach batteries
Center wire (6 gauge) going to Alternator B+
Bottom wire (8 Gauge) going to starter relay Bat+ on top of engine

Before considering replacing this alternator I think I should:
1. Add a ground B- of equal gauge as B+ to the Alternator
2. Replace Isolator bottom 8 gauge with 6 gauge or better and run directly to motor battery?
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Old 12-15-2015, 03:59 PM   #49
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Peter, I added a little clarification to your diagram. The route the alternator takes to get to your battery is pretty amazing!

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Old 12-15-2015, 06:24 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter, I added a little clarification to your diagram. The route the alternator takes to get to your battery is pretty amazing!

Attachment 253894
not to forget a trip to the Isolator first, which is not included in that diagram.
The diagram shows the charge wire to be 12 gauge. Mine is a 10 gauge from the isolator back to the junction block.
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Old 12-15-2015, 06:35 PM   #51
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As far as alternator mounting bracket mods go for the CS-144 I think these are the two things I had to do to the top mount, enlarge the hole where it bolts to the intake manifold and bend the ear due to the angle change. The angle change is required due to the larger diameter of the CS-144 alternator.

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I did this mod several years ago and my plans are to weld in some filler material to strengthen the ear. Since the engine has to be stripped down of all ancillary equipment prior to installation I'll do that once I pull the engine from the test stand in preparation for installing it in the chassis. That will allow me to do the welding and painting on the bracket.

Brad
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:31 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco View Post
Some questions I have are 1. How to insure youre buying a quality, long lasting light. 2. Why There is such a wide difference in price range for the LED headlights? 3. How to determine the correct bulbs for high and low beams? I dont see them listed this way, some have wattage but I dont have a clue what the wattage SHOULD be for low or high beam.
4. Is there some standard connector that was used during that time period or did it vary according to make n model? Would we want a GM compatable connector or is there such a thing?

Ive got to be missing something because this seems too easy at face value. Please school me if youre willing.

Mike
I installed LED headlights. My sealed beams were horrible, the right low beam barely lit - a sickly yellow glow.

I installed a Daniel Stern relay upgrade Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply. I completely rewired my headlight circuit with heavier gauge wire; 10 ga. for the feeds and 12 ga. for the light wires and grounds. My LED lights came from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I am gambling on their longevity and quality, they were not expensive compared to some LED headlights.

The lights I purchased are both high & low beam. They have a pigtail with a 3 wire headlight connector that I had to re-pin to make the connections match the GM standard configuration for headlights. I set my upper lights up as both low and high beams and my lower lights just as high beams, like the factory wiring.

I was surprised after I installed them that on low beam, only the top 1/3 of the lights are on. The LEDs are in three rows. They look odd during the day but at night the light fills all of the reflectors and looks normal from the front when you get back about 30 feet. Up close you can see that just the top strip is on. When driving; the light is good on low beam, nice white light, not bright enough to be offensive to others. You could wire all four for low beam operation, but I suspect it would annoy other drivers. They would probably assume since 4 lights are on that you have not dimmed your lights. On high beam all three rows of LEDs are on. You can also add an additional relay and a switch so you have 3 modes; 2 low beams, 4 low beams and high beams. I felt that was an unnecessary complication.

The light on low beam is probably comparable to what my sealed beams should have been only whiter light than a sealed beam.

The high beams are like daylight! They are remarkably bright, lighting well of the shoulders of the road. I am very happy with them.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:49 AM   #53
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Just tried the link and it's not working!
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:11 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Just tried the link and it's not working!
Try this, I think these are the same. http://www.amazon.com/Octane-Lightin...adlights+4+x+6
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Old 12-16-2015, 12:53 PM   #55
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I forgot you have the rectangular double bulb arrangement so those won't work for my Argosy.

I'll probably give something like these and these a try.

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I have a pair of the bulbs for my TR6 but haven't installed them as yet. However they seem to be well made.

Brad
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:12 PM   #56
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Thank you Chief for that great information. When you say you completely rewired your headlight circuit, did you go all the way to the switch? Was that relay kit specific to GM or a universal kit?
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