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chiefair · 12-16-2015, 06:23 PM

Brad, I have considered those for my Jeep Wrangler to replace the sealed beams.

mayco · 12-16-2015, 06:47 PM

Nice work!! Very clean and neat. I think thats the way to go regardless of which bulb type. Great information, thanks so much.

PeterH-350LE · 12-16-2015, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

not to forget a trip to the Isolator first, which is not included in that diagram.
The diagram shows the charge wire to be 12 gauge. Mine is a 10 gauge from the isolator back to the junction block.

Replaced the 10ga wire from the Isolator to the junction block (starter relay) on top of the engine with 8ga and my voltage fluctuations are gone. It may just have been some poor connections...

bkahler · 12-17-2015, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chiefair

Brad, I have considered those for my Jeep Wrangler to replace the sealed beams.

The way it's going other than the dash gauge light bulbs every other bulb in the entire Argosy might just be LED by the time I'm done. One of these days I'll look at the dash gauges but I'm not sure I'll be able to find an LED that will work properly in that application. We'll see...

Brad

Keyair · 12-26-2015, 11:12 AM

Based on what I am seeing behind/under my dash, I will need to start with rewiring the "Extras" and mods done by PO's and shops.
I have some serious concerns about some things... Found loose wires, cut wires, and disconnected wires everywhere I look. There is one yellow wire taht is probably 10gauge or bigger just floating free, with 12v live, and just a bit of tape on the end that was old and crispy. The power feed for the rearview camera was red at the monitor, changed to blue under the steering column, and then green to the front of the chevy fusebox, where it was piggybacked onto a red wire, which was disconnected(probably by me).

This is how it looks... No idea what the black wire with a fuseholder on it does, but the red and grey wire are conned together at a burnt/melted looking male spade, which again, I have no clue about...

So, with that in mind, I want to begin to trace everything and plan a safer/tidier update for the additional stuff that has been added, but leave the original stuff alone for now.
I was thinking to add a secondary fusebox/fuseboxes/distribution system and run 3 separate feeds to it:
1/ House battery feed.
2/ Motor Battery feed.
3/ Motor Battery Ignition switched feed.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for components and wires?
Thoughts?

Also, I looked at these preprinted wires... and found out that K-Sun make a label maker that can print on shrink wrap! So you can print whatever you want on shrink wrap and then mark your cables, which is very cool!

PeterH-350LE · 12-26-2015, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

....
Also, I looked at these preprinted wires... and found out that K-Sun make a label maker that can print on shrink wrap! So you can print whatever you want on shrink wrap and then mark your cables, which is very cool!

After spending the christmas holidays behind my dash, I came to the conclusion that it looks worse than it is.
If I would post a picture of the Jensen/amp wiring I just concluded, I would probably be banned permanently from this site.

The biggest issue clearly is the amount of wires. Your suggestion to find a labeling system is probably the best way to start this. I use just a simple label maker and label every wire I add and every wire I take out of service.
All the speaker wires are labeled now and the power sources.
I have seen labeled heat shrink, but didn't know how to achieve that. I would think the shrinking would distort the printing?

mayco · 12-26-2015, 11:51 AM

Boy does that sound and look familiar. Its a bit overwhelming to even get started. From what others have said though, we are all in the same boat. Some worse than others depending on mods by POs but even the oem wiring was pretty shabby it seems. BUT, we all have to deal with it so no sense in my complaining.
If you search for "chaplain Kent", in one of his threads, he did a complete rewire behind the dash........I question if I have the ambition to tackle that job.
I think this thread is a good start though, so we can share how we've approached our rigs.

So far for me, Ive just tried to tackle each problem as they arrise but thats not a very good philosophy when it comes to preventative measures. Better to catch things in your driveway than out on the road.

bkahler · 12-26-2015, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

So, with that in mind, I want to begin to trace everything and plan a safer/tidier update for the additional stuff that has been added, but leave the original stuff alone for now.

I wouldn't necessarily consider the original stuff any better than the later add on's. Yesterday I finished stripping the gauges and misc stuff off the 345 dash and all sorts of stuff was attached in various places using Hot Melt

Maybe that's ok by some standards but not mine. There were a half dozen or more little lights, a buzzer and a Dana timer module that were hanging loose because they had broken free of the hot melt. Same with the speedometer and tachometer, held in with Hot Melt and of course broken free

Quote:

I was thinking to add a secondary fusebox/fuseboxes/distribution system and run 3 separate feeds to it:
1/ House battery feed.
2/ Motor Battery feed.
3/ Motor Battery Ignition switched feed.

Can you explain a little more what you're wanting to do with the three different feeds?

Quote:

Can anyone point me in the right direction for components and wires?
Thoughts?

It seems like any more if I want something I first search using google images to see if I can find something that looks like what I need and then I search for it on ebay.

Quote:

Also, I looked at these preprinted wires... and found out that K-Sun make a label maker that can print on shrink wrap! So you can print whatever you want on shrink wrap and then mark your cables, which is very cool!

That could be interesting. Being able to identify wires is SO helpful!

Since I'm starting from scratch on my Argosy dash I hope to a decent job of wiring it the first time around

Brad

Keyair · 12-26-2015, 02:16 PM

Brad, I hear you on the "Hot Melt"...
All of my dash switches and warning lights are held in by that stuff...

Also, what is a "Dana Timing Module" and what does it do???

Would it be this thing???

Is it me or is the Forum search function NOT working?
Seems like no matter what I type in, it brings up loads of nothing related....

PeterH-350LE · 12-26-2015, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Brad, I hear you on the "Hot Melt"...
All of my dash switches and warning lights are held in by that stuff...

..

That is PO stuff. Someone didn't know how to pull the switches, broke them and then glued them back in. Only the generator on/off switch had some goo on my dash, all the rest were clean. I would look for replacement switches.
And, yes the search function sucks. You better off using google and look for forum links

Keyair · 12-26-2015, 06:40 PM

Any clue on where to find switches?

PeterH-350LE · 12-26-2015, 06:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Any clue on where to find switches?

if you measure the cutout, I will look too. I think it is 1"x 3/8", but could be 7/16

bkahler · 12-26-2015, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

That is PO stuff. Someone didn't know how to pull the switches, broke them and then glued them back in. Only the generator on/off switch had some goo on my dash, all the rest were clean. I would look for replacement switches.
And, yes the search function sucks. You better off using google and look for forum links

Interesting. My old 84 310 and the 86 345 both had a bunch of the brown hot melt. To use it on the dash would have required the dash to be mostly if not completely removed. I'll have to take some pictures of the 345 dash tomorrow.

Check out a company called Digikey for switches.

PeterH-350LE · 12-26-2015, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkahler

Interesting. My old 84 310 and the 86 345 both had a bunch of the brown hot melt. To use it on the dash would have required the dash to be mostly if not completely removed. I'll have to take some pictures of the 345 dash tomorrow.

Check out a company called Digikey for switches.

Best picture I have with no hot melt or glue

bkahler · 12-26-2015, 07:24 PM

I wonder if Airstream was suffering from having things being jarred loose from the dash and one of the attempted fixes was hot melt.

PeterH-350LE · 12-26-2015, 07:51 PM

closest batch I found on the link Brad provided, but have to verify cut out.
These are 27.20mm x 12.10mm

Rocker Switches | Switches | DigiKey

PeterH-350LE · 12-26-2015, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

closest batch I found on the link Brad provided, but have to verify cut out.
These are 27.20mm x 12.10mm

Rocker Switches | Switches | DigiKey

tried to measure cut out by pulling a switch. best I can get is 26.50mm x 12.30mm. Can you confirm on yours, Steve?

bkahler · 12-26-2015, 08:34 PM

Also check out Mouser for more switches.

PeterH-350LE · 12-27-2015, 07:21 PM

I ordered 1 of these rocker switches. Closest match I could find. Its only a on/off with no markings.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...905&DPU=submit

PeterH-350LE · 12-30-2015, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

I ordered 1 of these rocker switches. Closest match I could find. Its only a on/off with no markings.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea...905&DPU=submit

Got the above rocker switch today and yes it fits, but its not the best choice.
Profile of the switch is different. It snaps in , but could be a little tighter.
So I recommend this switch for on/off (it is 1 mm wider, which should make it snap in tighter)
RSC241D1B2R E-Switch | Switches | DigiKey

EDIT: this may have to be ON/MOM, not sure really
and this for Off/MOM for ICC Blink
RSC244D112FEED E-Switch | Switches | DigiKey

I have not been able to find a 3 way switch of that size.
If you want to look, this is a good opening size 27.20 mm x 12.10 mm

Here is the profile difference of the one I received today