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Old 12-11-2015, 06:51 AM   #29
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Peter, I'm not an alternator expert but that sure doesn't sound right. You might take the alternator in and have it tested.

I thought you were adding an amp gauge, not a voltage gauge?
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Old 12-11-2015, 07:14 AM   #30
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Peter, I'm not an alternator expert but that sure doesn't sound right. You might take the alternator in and have it tested.

I thought you were adding an amp gauge, not a voltage gauge?
I added 3 gauges, amp, coach volt and Trans temp.
I assumed that the gauge "jumping" I see was cause by bad grounds, but now I suspect the new alt. What's the biggest amp alternator I could safely use. You know I just dying to buy more new stuff...
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Old 12-11-2015, 07:46 AM   #31
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Peter, on my Argosy I've installed a GM CS-144 alternator typically found in Cadillac's and many other GM vehicles. I salvaged one out of a you-pick-it in Pasadena that is a 140 amp unit. Only minor changes to the mounts and it's a direct bolt on.

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I had to enlarge a hole in the top mounting plate and it took a little fiddling with the AC support brace but eventually I got everything to line up as it should.

I believe the CS alternators originally came with ribbed pulleys for serpentine belts but it's an easy swap to install a standard v-belt pulley.

If you want I can provide more info on what I had to do for the install.

Brad
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Old 12-11-2015, 10:51 AM   #32
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I have no idea what the total loads are for your MH, but here is a guide to help you figure out what size alternator to use.

How to Choose an Alternator - OnAllCylinders

Brad has let us know that a CS144 type alternator is a direct replacement for your coach. These start at 140 amp and go up from there to 350 amp. Here is a link to a site that sells these.

https://alternatorparts.com/extreme-...-144-type.html

I am not endorsing these people, but you may want to give them a call to get the right housing and more information. (They were just the first site to come up on a google search.) If you go with a bigger unit make sure and increase the size of the output wire to match the alternator.
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Old 12-11-2015, 05:58 PM   #33
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Dave, it's not a 100% direct fit but it's pretty darn close.

I had to enlarge a mounting hole on the top bracket where it bolts to the intake manifold. However that might not be necessary on a stock manifold. I have an Edelbrock Performer 2.0 intake manifold and if I remember correctly it's a little taller in that area than a stock intake. I believe that's why I also had to modify slightly the AC support brace.

All things considered its almost a drop in replacement

Brad
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Old 12-11-2015, 07:37 PM   #34
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Brad, from what I have seen of this group it should be no problem getting it installed then. Just another day at the office.
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Old 12-12-2015, 07:48 AM   #35
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There certainly are some creative and resourceful people on this list aren't there
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Old 12-12-2015, 08:10 AM   #36
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There certainly are some creative and resourceful people on this list aren't there
Do we have a choice
Thanks for the input, guys. I will get that alt once I get her back in stable. Enjoying the fruits of my labor at the moment, having a great campout.
It will be a great opportunity to upgrade that 10 gauge alt wire running to the isolator now.
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:21 AM   #37
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Peter,

I went back and checked my notes about the alternator I installed and this is what I documented:

Alternator - 1989 Cadillac DeVille (19152090), with a 4.5L V8 - GAS

I can vouch for it fitting on my 454 with only slight mods done to the upper bracket (as previously mentioned you might not need to modify yours). I also know when I had the engine running on my test stand the voltage gauge indicated it was charging the battery.

You will also need an 10SI to CS144 adapter cable with resistor. After a lot of research this cable is what I determined was needed to get the alternator to work in my Argosy.
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:12 AM   #38
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That is a monster alternator Brad!
Aside from the physical fitment, what mods are needed to go from what I have, which is an Alternator(no idea on what ) with separate voltage regulator?
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:21 AM   #39
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So there are a number of different brands of 4x6 LED sealed beam headlights available on Amazon. Since we are discussing 12v improvements and have identified the headlight switch as being one of the most potentially problematic chassis 12v systems, are these LED headlights worth pursuing? If Im understanding correctly, this GM switch is questionable in its ability to handle the amperage draw in our Classics. Once we have changed out our running lights to LED, is the next logical step to change out our headlights to LED?

There is a thread here somewhere about someone who did this but I cant seem to find it right now. At face value it seems that this would be on our lists of improvements but am I missing something about changing the headlights out to LEDs? Are there associated wiring difficulties in doing it? I assume the connectors at the lights may need changing, are there other considerations? I am thinking that once you change the running lights and headlights to LEDs that it would help solve the light switch issue.

Some questions I have are 1. How to insure youre buying a quality, long lasting light. 2. Why There is such a wide difference in price range for the LED headlights? 3. How to determine the correct bulbs for high and low beams? I dont see them listed this way, some have wattage but I dont have a clue what the wattage SHOULD be for low or high beam.
4. Is there some standard connector that was used during that time period or did it vary according to make n model? Would we want a GM compatable connector or is there such a thing?

Ive got to be missing something because this seems too easy at face value. Please school me if youre willing.

Mike
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Old 12-14-2015, 11:42 AM   #40
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All good questions Mayco.

I have not pulled the trigger yet, but here is my 0.02c.

As far as headlamps go, it seems taking the heavy lifting off the GM switch is the priority.
LED's are great for markers and blinkers, but I am leaning toward HID for the headlamps. It is a mass produced, and proven technology, and also consumes some 30% less power, I read. The way they are set up with a separate harness for the powered ballasts is helpful for bypassing the headlamp switch too.


On this similar subject, what is the deal on the LED clearance lights?
someone bought some recently, but I cant find it...
I know they are "Double Bulls eye" style, but what are the best ones?
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:05 PM   #41
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Quote:
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That is a monster alternator Brad!
Aside from the physical fitment, what mods are needed to go from what I have, which is an Alternator(no idea on what ) with separate voltage regulator?
First thing would be to remove the voltage regulator and toss it

Below is the information I used while building the test stand. Keep in mind my Argosy would have had a 10SI style of alternator and I converted to the CS144 alternator.

Brad

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
In 1986 GM introduced the completely new, 105-amp, CS130 Delcotron alternator (CS130 = Charging System with 130mm diameter stator) because the SI alternators could not keep up with the increased electrical demand and because overdrive transmissions were lowering engine and alternator rpms. The CS130 weighs less, is smaller in diameter (but uses the same 6.6" mounting-hole, center-to-center distance photo 3), uses less internal parts, has a better voltage regulator system, has increased durability and is less noisy (audibly and electrically) than the SI alternator it replaced. There is also a 120-amp, CS144 version if you need more output because you're running large amounts of electrical equipment in your vehicle such as high-powered stereos.

NOTE: This conversion is designed for cars with internally regulated alternators. If your car has an externally regulated alternator you will need to convert it first. Use this diagram
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and go to Alex Bilan's Alternator Conversion webpage for more information on converting to an internally regulated alternator.

Most of the connectors for the CS alternators are four wire but will only use two of them and the wiring is the same as the SI.
S = a heavy gauge wire to the battery supply (horn relay)
F = not used
L = a small gauge wire that comes from the idiot light and energizes the alternator
P = not used
You need to purchase a conversion adapter that is just 2 short wires and 2 connectors. One is a CS connector to plug into the alternator, the other is a female connector to accept the SI plug from your original harness. There are two different types of conversion adapters. One is a non-resistor and the other has some resistance built-in it. The "L" wire that energizes the alternator needs some resistance (35 ohms or more) in it otherwise it will cause the alternator to fail. If you have a warning light in the dash then that bulb serves as the needed resistance and you should use the non-resistor adapter. If you don't have that bulb or have less than 35 ohms resistance in the "L" wire then you will need the adapter with resistance built in. If the "L" wire has more than 350 ohms then there is a problem with that wire and it will need to be fixed.

Non-resistor adapters:
- AC Delco: 8077
- Haywire: 2110
- Painless Wiring: 30707

Resistor adapters:
- AC Delco: 8078

Steps:
Turn key to run position verify charging system warning light comes on
Remove negative battery cable
Disconnect the 2-wire plug from the side of the SI alternator
Disconnect the heavy battery wire from the BATT terminal on the back of the SI alternator
Remove belt
Remove SI alternator
Install pulley from SI alternator to CS alternator
Remove alternator mounting bracket from SI alternator
Modify alternator mounting bracket (see pic below)
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Install alternator mounting bracket and 2 washers to the CS alternator
Measure the resistance in the "L" wire
Connect CS wiring adapter to the CS alternator
Connect the heavy battery wire to the BATT terminal on the back of the CS alternator
Connect the wiring adapter to the original SI connector
Mount the CS alternator to the engine
Install belt and tighten
Check all of your connections
Connect the negative battery cable
If you don't have an installed voltmeter, connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals
Start the car
The charging system warning light should go out and there should be 14v at the battery. If there is not, check all connections
NOTE: the alternator supply line that connects to the BATT post on the back of the alternator is usually a 10- or 12-gauge wire. For a CS conversion, I suggest using at least an 4-ga or larger charge wire.
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Old 12-14-2015, 12:10 PM   #42
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ds-132969.html

These are the clearance lights that several of us bought. They were on sale at the time. I installed mine earlier this year and have been very happy with them. Well......as happy as one can get over some lights
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