Dumping Air

[ALANSD]

When I have cjecked the pressure at the moisture valve on the bottom of the tank it reads zero too. I will try to use the line off that tank though and see what happens.

If I can get a reading on a tire gauge, maybe I can install a permanent one there. The tank is still in the circuit although the compressor is out.

[swebster]

Alan,
The Grainger suggestion was right on time! Got a brass inline check valve with a teflon poppet rated to 250 psi for $6.87.

Thanks!

[87MH]

Alan:

Use a little caution here. It is not outside the realm of possibility that your schrader valve is plugged with rust.

Best way to deal with it (IMHO) is to make SURE the volume tank is empty, back out the schrader and bottom fitting, and inject some air into the tank from your Storage Bin air access valve. This would ensure you have a free path.

While the schrader fitting is out you could reroute with some tubing to a much more convenient location as Steven suggested.

Good Luck!

[ALANSD]

any reason I should keep the tank in the setup? I have replaced the compressor with an input valve- (schrader)

[87MH]

Absolutely, keep the tank!

As the suspension "works", inflating and deflating the bags as necessary, the Volume Tank will offer a "cushion" to store a certain amount of cubic feet of air so you would not have to add air to the bags as ofter.

Even if you have the outlets of the air bags capped off (not allowing any automatic adjustments of the air pressure in the bag), the larger volume of air in the tank (and in the overall air suspension) would allow for a more constant (and reliable) pressure to the bags.

If my bags totally deflate, the leaf springs are knocking against the frame, so it is imperative that the bags have a good source of pressurized air.

Alan, I speak only from 345 suspension experience, and I don't know how much of that is transferable to other suspension designs. I sure don't want to mislead you if your bag suspension reacts differently than mine.

[swebster]

Brett, Jeff, zamboni, Dennis, Ray - I promise to listen next time:

The replacement check valve was the ticket. Trip to Grainger at lunch, five minutes to install and she holds air.

Actually, I think a good cleaning would have done it but I noticed a hairline crack in the body of the old valve. Just a matter of time before it dumped air in an "unplanned fashion"

I would highly recommend sticking to the service interval recommendations and blowing out the air/moisture from the tank at every oil change. I would also recommend removing and cleaning the check valve yearly. And...keep an extra valve in the toolbox. $10 part vs new tag axles - Yikes!