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Old 02-03-2010, 12:00 PM   #15
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I think you're right. I have found a little play, say, "in-and-out" of the cup in the UJ. There is no lateral play.
The drive shaft is a Balanced system and any side to side movement in the cups will allow the shaft to be off balance.

As for slack in the carrier bearings that may effort the inclination angle of the U joint. U joints have to have a slight angle across the joint. That is what causes the needle bearings inside the joint to revolve. If this angle is too great or too small the needles will not revolve in the bearing and shorten the life of the joint.
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Old 02-11-2010, 01:13 PM   #16
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Chuckles center support bearings and carriers are available at most auto supplys here in the states even though they are found on P-30 many Chevy trucks use the same system. Pretty common part here. Since you are replacing the u-joints and rebalancing I would replace the center support bearings and carriers so all would be new just like OEM.
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Old 02-12-2010, 02:15 AM   #17
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Well I hit snag One!

I went to a Chevy dealer in the North who normally is very good at sourcing chassis bits for me.
Either my micro is out but the measurements of the UJ was different to that in the books. I measured 1.185" x 4.185" for the front UJ and the book gave a considerably smaller version (cant remember the size now - it was late and about 530 miles away!). The nearest was 1.187" x 4.187" BUT that was for the axle end.
I bought two just in case and will give it a shot this week end and see how they fit. Hopefully they are all the same size so all I need is one more.

Snag 2 was that the support bearings and running spline are not available here - yet! will keep trying others.
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Old 02-15-2010, 10:31 AM   #18
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Bummer Chuckles. Given the work that u-joints do I would wait to put all the center supports and bearings at the same time as the u-joints. FYI u-joints change speeds 4 times per revolution, so even on a good day they take a real beating. Key is to get the right guy doing the installing so that there is no built in tension (tight place) in the joint. Good lube is also paramount.
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Old 02-15-2010, 04:15 PM   #19
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It was my micro! the new UJ's fit.....

Thats one(or two) down another to follow. just waiting now for the prop to finished.

And yet another..... I have had this annoying chatter from the speedo dial, with the accompanying waver of the needle from start to about 45MPH, ever since I had the MH. I have replaced the lower cable and speed sender, and now with the GV (trans Brake) extension, I have another new lower cable and the additional speed sensor.

I removed the inner of the upper cable to the speedo itself cleaned and oiled it. No floors in it, but there was a very slight high spot somewhere. After the oiling, that seemed to go, but the clock needle still wavers, albeit a bit quieter!

Any Ideas chaps? I am thinking the waver or slack is in the head of the speedo, has anyone serviced these .... successfully?
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:17 AM   #20
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....

Any Ideas chaps? I am thinking the waver or slack is in the head of the speedo, has anyone serviced these .... successfully?

When I bought my MH, the speedo bounced erratically, then it stopped working.

I replaced it with a non-stock unit. Then I found a speedo repair shop and had the original repaired. When I asked them to add the mileage from the interim replacement to the reading of the original, they thought I was a bit odd. In any case I now have the original speedo, with the correct mileage.

If you can't find a local speedo shop, you could try http://www.speedometershop.com/
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