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Old 12-12-2012, 05:30 AM   #1
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Dip Stick/Oil filler options for motorhomes

Since I'm having to reconstruct from scratch the engine compartment of my 74 Argosy I'm wondering what options might be worth looking into for eliminating the front access dip stick and oil filler pipe.

I have none of the original components for the dip stick or the filler pipe but I do have these components from the 345 I dismantled. One difference is the 345 had the horizontal radiator and the Argosy used the Vertical radiator. However from measurements I've taken it appears the tops of the radiators are at about the same height because the original Argosy radiators sit down between the frame rails.

So the question is if you had the chance to eliminate the front dip stick and oil filler tube what would you use in their place?

One other tidbit. I will be replacing the original steel Argosy doghouse cover with the fiberglass unit (and framework) I salvaged from the 345 so engine access should be a little easier.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:23 PM   #2
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I like the front access. I just wish my Transmission dip-stick was up there too. That's the only engine thing I need to pull the engine cover for.
BTW, I added a couple of 1/4 turn ball valves in the heater hoses. Now if I have a leak problem in that system on the road, I can just close them and continue on. They kill all coolant flow to the dash heater, Aux heater, and Water heater. (Along with the 40 some feet of heater hose)
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:26 AM   #3
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Good idea about adding the ball valves. I've wondered about that myself.
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:37 AM   #4
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Rob, do you have problems getting the dipstick to slide down the tube? On a SOB motorhome that we had the dipstick was a real bear to get back down into the tube. Our 310 is better but can be finicky at times.

Part of my problem is I'm not sure the 345 dipstick & filler assembly will work with the Argosy radiator. The Argosy dipstick was originally on the drivers side of the radiator and the fill tube on the passenger side. I guess once I get the radiator installed I'll know what will or won't work

I have seen reference from other members about eliminating the filler and dipstick and am curious as to what they are doing.

Quote:
BTW, I added a couple of 1/4 turn ball valves in the heater hoses. Now if I have a leak problem in that system on the road, I can just close them and continue on. They kill all coolant flow to the dash heater, Aux heater, and Water heater. (Along with the 40 some feet of heater hose)
On our 310 I eliminated the heater hose feed to the hot water heater and the aux heater under the couch. Didn't like the idea of having a potential coolant leak inside the coach. The Argosy doesn't have any of those fancy features, just the dash heater so I don't have to worry about any of those hoses.

Good idea on the ball valves and will probably install them on the 310 and the Argosy.

Brad
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:02 PM   #5
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Brad.
I plan to remove the oil filler for sure, but may leave the dipstick.

Our Dodge Van has an aftermarket Oil Level Gauge, that replaced the dipstick..
I have never seen one before, but it works great and you can see teh oil level from the drivers seat...
I will take some pics of it and see if I can see an manufacturer name...
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:18 PM   #6
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Steve,

Never heard of anything like that before. Be interesting to see what it looks like.

Brad
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:44 PM   #7
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I have never had any problem with the dip stick. It's pretty long, but no problems.
I have had some concern with the many feet of heater hose in the coach. That's why I have it on a mandatory replacement schedule of I believe every 5 years.
I love the Aux Heater. We use it a lot.
Rob
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:00 PM   #8
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Rob,

Replacing the hose every 5 years is a good plan. When I removed the old hose it was so hard I couldn't cut it with a razor knife. I'm sure it was the original hose. I guess for 23 year old hose that was probably to be expected.

Brad
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Old 12-13-2012, 07:35 PM   #9
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Cant tell you much about it Brad... Never seen anything like it before..
The original owner and builder was in a wheelchair and a Boeing Engineer.
He obviously found it difficult to pull the dipstick.

There is a tube that goes down the dipstick tube, and under the dash there is a pull out cap... and when you do that there is a colored wedge shaped reader, that rotates to tell you the oil level..
I looked thru my photos and this is all I could find today...
That is the "Cap" below the speedo with a split ring on the end...
And no, I was not doing 65 with the door open when I took this pic... the speedo needle is stuck!
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Old 12-14-2012, 02:05 PM   #10
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Interesting. I've never seen or heard of anything like it. It's amazing how many different little gizmos are out there waiting to be discovered

Thanks for sharing!

Brad
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Old 12-15-2012, 10:32 AM   #11
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Ok Brad... here it is as promised!
I was shown it and how it works by the PO...

I found this sticker on the underside of the unit..
It is called a "E-Z Oil CheckTM, Remote Idicating Dipstick, Motorgistics INC.
An iternet search provided nothing except a mension in Boat Magazine in 1992 saying it was $74.99...


There is a hollow dipstick with a small hole about an inch from the end that replaces the normal engine dipstick.


Head of dipstick unit pulled out.
There is a soft rubber tube that connects this to the reader under the dash.


Reader unit.
The red is showing because the dipstick is out, but somehow the red area rotates to expose a green wedge..
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Old 12-15-2012, 02:43 PM   #12
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Amazing. It would appear it wasn't a huge seller when it hit the market. I've never heard or seen anything like it
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Old 12-15-2012, 03:46 PM   #13
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Yup...
I was kinda jazzed when I spotted the sticker...
This was all I could find on it...

Motogistics, Inc. E-Z Oil Check

Article Abstract:
The Motogistics E-Z Oil Check ($74.95) is a remote indicating dipstick that tells when a boat's engine is low on oil. The device is easy to install and to use.
Author: Fedorko, Bill
Publisher: Hachette Filipacchi Magazines, Inc.
Publication Name: Boating
Subject: Sports and fitness
ISSN: 0006-5374
Year: 1992

Motogistics E-Z Oil Check (Boating equipment)

Read more: No keys, please. Motogistics, Inc. E-Z Oil Check. Must-see TV: what's the best antenna for your boat?
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Old 12-31-2012, 05:07 AM   #14
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1/4 turn valve locations

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robfike View Post
BTW, I added a couple of 1/4 turn ball valves in the heater hoses. Now if I have a leak problem in that system on the road, I can just close them and continue on. They kill all coolant flow to the dash heater, Aux heater, and Water heater. (Along with the 40 some feet of heater hose)
This and the 5 year replacement for the hoses seems like a good idea. Any pics of the 1/4 turns and there location? I am adding both these to the "to do" list.

Thanks!
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:25 PM   #15
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Just an FYI on the heater valve issue...

I was skimming the P30 Chassis Manual, and in Section 7B, it specifically states that there should be no valve placed in the heater hose line...
Not being super familiar with teh coolant flow on teh MH, I dont know, but I suggest its looked at!
http://www.bdub.net/manuals/P30/P30.pdf
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Old 01-06-2013, 12:21 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Do you have problems getting the dipstick to slide down the tube? On a SOB motorhome that we had the dipstick was a real bear to get back down into the tube. Our 310 is better but can be finicky at times.

Brad
Hi, with vehicles that I have worked on, I found it was much easier to re-install the dip sticks by giving them a slight twist as you push them in. Just pushing on them, is almost impossible to make the dip sticks go all the way in.
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Old 01-06-2013, 07:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Just an FYI on the heater valve issue...

I was skimming the P30 Chassis Manual, and in Section 7B, it specifically states that there should be no valve placed in the heater hose line...
Not being super familiar with teh coolant flow on teh MH, I dont know, but I suggest its looked at!
http://www.bdub.net/manuals/P30/P30.pdf
I didn't see where it said no valve should be installed, I only saw reference to the H valve which is what I've bought for the Argosy. Found one on ebay for $48 delivered. The number mentioned in the manual doesn't appear to be available anymore.

Brad
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:25 PM   #18
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As I said Brad, I really have not looked hard at the cooling system yet, but if you look at the top rh side of page 7-16, you will see the statement I saw.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I didn't see where it said no valve should be installed, I only saw reference to the H valve which is what I've bought for the Argosy. Found one on ebay for $48 delivered. The number mentioned in the manual doesn't appear to be available anymore.

Brad
Just was looking through the manual, here is the section.

RADIATOR/HEATER AND ENGINE
DEAERATION SYSTEM (After 1983 Model)
Heavy-duty cooling equipment is required when air conditioning
or auxiliary belt-driven equipment is 'installed.
Continuous coolant flow is necessary from the heater connection
on the engine to the heater connection on the
radiator to control oil temperatures during closed thermostat
(warm-up) operation. Shutting off this flow may
result in premature engine or transmission failure.
If a heater unit is not installed in the vehicle or a heater
shut-off valve is required, a line connecting the heater
connection on the engine to the heater connection on the
radiator must be installed . When
a shut-off valve is required
in the heating system, it must be "tee'd" into the
system in such a manner as to maintain a continuous flow
between the engine heater connection and the radiator
heater connection at all times.

ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
7-1 6
NOTE: The heater hose routing should not be altered
from the standard system. If an auxiliary heater
is added, it should be routed similarly to the RPO
(C36) rear heater. Where the heater water return
is routed to the radiator outlet tank, a shut-off
valve should not be placed in the heater circuit .
A nipple has been provided in the radiator outlet tank for
heater return water (Figure 7-18). The temporary rubber
shipping cap should be removed, and the heater return
(suction) hose should be attached to the radiator nipple
using the clamp supplied with the shipping cap.
Figure 7-18 - Radiator Outlet Tank - Heater Return
Water.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
As I said Brad, I really have not looked hard at the cooling system yet, but if you look at the top rh side of page 7-16, you will see the statement I saw.
Interesting. I only did a quick scan of the heater system and noted the information on page 1-8. I haven't had time to sit down and read through the whole manual as yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream View Post
Just was looking through the manual, here is the section.

RADIATOR/HEATER AND ENGINE
DEAERATION SYSTEM (After 1983 Model)
Heavy-duty cooling equipment is required when air conditioning
or auxiliary belt-driven equipment is 'installed.
Continuous coolant flow is necessary from the heater connection
on the engine to the heater connection on the
radiator to control oil temperatures during closed thermostat
(warm-up) operation. Shutting off this flow may
result in premature engine or transmission failure.
If a heater unit is not installed in the vehicle or a heater
shut-off valve is required, a line connecting the heater
connection on the engine to the heater connection on the
radiator must be installed . When
a shut-off valve is required
in the heating system, it must be "tee'd" into the
system in such a manner as to maintain a continuous flow
between the engine heater connection and the radiator
heater connection at all times.

ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM
7-1 6
NOTE: The heater hose routing should not be altered
from the standard system. If an auxiliary heater
is added, it should be routed similarly to the RPO
(C36) rear heater. Where the heater water return
is routed to the radiator outlet tank, a shut-off
valve should not be placed in the heater circuit .
A nipple has been provided in the radiator outlet tank for
heater return water (Figure 7-18). The temporary rubber
shipping cap should be removed, and the heater return
(suction) hose should be attached to the radiator nipple
using the clamp supplied with the shipping cap.
Figure 7-18 - Radiator Outlet Tank - Heater Return
Water.
I find it interesting that GM added a heater hose port on the radiator. This is something my 74 chassis does not have. I also noticed that this version of the P30 chassis manual has a LOT more information than my 74 version does.

I do want to add cooling fans in the front and I noticed this manual has a lot of information on the subject. I'm going to have to print the whole manual and do some late night reading

Thanks for the info!

Brad
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