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Old 11-22-2017, 05:40 AM   #57
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They would have used lead solder in the 80s

I always use lead solder, lead free is a pain.

Great work Wayne, excited to see how this turns out!!
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:01 AM   #58
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This is so impressive to watch. Amazing knowledge and work here guys.
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Old 11-26-2017, 05:02 PM   #59
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As a Boy Scout, 5 years in the Air Force, 25 years as volunteer Firefighter and HazMat tech; I learned to "Be prepared"
Sticking with that theme, I need to go in for some serious medical procedures within the next 10 daZe.
So to "Be Prepared" for less than perfect outcomes, I hustled up the design of the circuit board. The latest schematic and circuit board design is online here:
http://theouterlimits.ws/projects/ai...sorModule.html
I am hoping my rushing to design is completely uncalled for, but if it is not, at least you have something to work with.

So far, none of this is built or tested, so there may be errors, but it should be damn close.
I did start working up a parts list to buy enough parts for 8 units. That is on hold until I am back from Boston and can manage to get a prototype built.
Hope to see you on the other side
Wayne
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Old 11-26-2017, 09:00 PM   #60
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Dash sensor modules schematic

Take care, Wayne.

Rich, KE4GNK. And not a youngster either...also a former long-time Boy Scout and Cub Scout Leader and father to three grown-up Eagle Scouts. “Be Prepared” is also being a good example.
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Old 11-27-2017, 04:14 AM   #61
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Eagle scout here, take care of yourself!
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Old 11-27-2017, 10:02 AM   #62
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Wayne, hang in there and keep the faith. I'm looking forward to following the rest of this sensor module upgrade once you back and at it again

Brad
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Old 11-27-2017, 11:07 AM   #63
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Here is to your health, Cheers!
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:03 AM   #64
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A little more progress with this project:
This is the module tester box I made:


It has a 100K 10T pot shared between the fluid sensors and a 100 ohm 10T pot for the fuel level, and a fuel gauge for added glitz
I still need to add labels but as you see it is tied to the dissected module and it is somewhat working.
One thing I am confused about is that the low fuel light comes on at just above 1/2 tank (570 ohms). I dont know if that was the intent or if maybe this module was calibrated for a different sender resistance?
Most GM senders of this age were 90 to 100 ohms at full zero ohms at empty. Newer GM senders used 40 to 250 ohms:
Quote:
Ford up to 1986 - 73-10 Ohms
Ford 1987 & up - 16-158 Ohms
GM up to 1964 - 0-30 Ohms
GM 1965-1997 - 0-90 Ohms
GM 1998 & up - 40-250 Ohms
Mopar up to 1986 - 73-10 Ohms
AMC 1950-1977 - 73-10 Ohms
I think the low fuel light should come on at about 1/4 tank?
Any thoughts?
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Old 12-10-2017, 04:49 AM   #65
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Wayne,

Great progress! As I was going through the instrument cluster building process on my Argosy I found that my fuel sending unit was 90 ohm. Same for the 1986 345 that I used for parts. One thing I didn't find out is whether or not the 0-90 is linear. I'm betting it's not.

I agree the fuel level warning light should come on at 1/4 tank.

Are you planning on making and selling these boards?

Brad
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:05 AM   #66
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I know my "original" sender unit was not linear to fuel level. I assume it was so cobed up to fit the depth of the 60 gallon tank.

I could not find a reasonably priced unit so I made my own that has better linearity


The original GM gauge may also be non linear in its readout. The after market one in this tester is 100% linear with 1/4 full =22.5, ohms 1/2 = 45.0, 3/4 = 67.5, and Full = 90 ohms.

As for production, when I get the design fully worked out I will setup to make 8 units, unless there is more demand, that is all I will build.

I suppose a Argosy could be retrofitted to use the fuel level, washer and coolant levels. You would just need indicator lights and a place to mount them.

All of this ambition depends on which direction the doc's are spinning me over the next few months.
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Old 12-10-2017, 07:40 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
I know my "original" sender unit was not linear to fuel level. I assume it was so cobed up to fit the depth of the 60 gallon tank.

I could not find a reasonably priced unit so I made my own that has better linearity


The original GM gauge may also be non linear in its readout. The after market one in this tester is 100% linear with 1/4 full =22.5, ohms 1/2 = 45.0, 3/4 = 67.5, and Full = 90 ohms.

As for production, when I get the design fully worked out I will setup to make 8 units, unless there is more demand, that is all I will build.

I suppose a Argosy could be retrofitted to use the fuel level, washer and coolant levels. You would just need indicator lights and a place to mount them.
I would be interested in two. I believe the owner of my old 310 would like a working unit and it would be an interesting retrofit for my Argosy.

Quote:
All of this ambition depends on which direction the doc's are spinning me over the next few months.
Well, let's hope they spin you the right way!

Take care,

Brad
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:35 AM   #68
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I have no input on the electronics other than to me amazed, Wayne! Nice job!
Obviously, you can count me in for a unit please!

Hope that whatever is going on with you Health is resolved quickly and positively.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:50 AM   #69
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I am just as amazed as the other Steve. Please sign me up for one.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:52 AM   #70
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Looking up parts now, so far I have about $300+ for parts. Some are enough to make just 8 units most are bulk order to make many more than 8, like transistors, capacitors, resistors.
I will try and arrive at a price that is just at cost plus shipping.
This is assuming that it does not get to labor intensive and I dont need to hire some of Santa's elves
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