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Old 11-08-2017, 12:07 PM   #29
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Itís going in the mail today.
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:52 PM   #30
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Mailed. Will be with you Friday.
Will pm you the tracking #.

FYI, the one wire with the connector on it in this pic was not connected to anything and the connector was not crimped on the other side, never had been, so my guess would be thatís the Water in Fuel feed!
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Old 11-09-2017, 12:40 AM   #31
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Yes, the gray wire is for the water in fuel sensor that is not installed in the gas engine version. I assume it could be used for some other sensor if needed.
When it gets here, I will bring it to work to start operating on it, see what makes it tick and clone it.
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:25 AM   #32
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Awesome!
I, for one would love to see photographs and a description of the process.

Will you just post the schematic or actually make them for others?
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Old 11-09-2017, 10:51 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Awesome!
I, for one would love to see photographs and a description of the process.

Will you just post the schematic or actually make them for others?
I will try and do both. I dont expect it to be too complicated or expensive to reproduce. I dont think I will see surface mount or exotic components or multi layer circuit boards, but this is 80's gear, sometimes there can be surprises.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:32 PM   #34
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It just arrived. The wires look the same colors of mine, it looks like the potting cup is a bit larger than what they use on mine, I expect all the functions to be the same.
I will bring it to work Sunday or Monday for a closer look. I will also bring my camera for some photos
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:52 PM   #35
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Sweet!
As stated, I broke a section on the frame.
Next time I am over, I will try to locate the pressure module!
Could it be the unit I posted originally?
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Old 11-13-2017, 12:09 PM   #36
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To avoid filling up my attachment space I started a temp webpage for that:

http://theouterlimits.ws/projects/ai...sorModule.html

I only had a few hours to work on it today but it looks like it will be a easy disassembly.
I used a bandsaw to remove the plastic shell. I was happy to find the epoxy did not cover the bottom of the circuit board due to a air pocket.


I also found that this epoxy degrades and crystallizes at a very low temperature using a low heat torch, so scraping the epoxy off is easy, but it will be time consuming going around the components.

By the looks of the circuit board, there are at least 2 IC's on it, and they have similar connections, so I am guessing there are 2 sensor circuits on each IC.
There are 10 large round connections, I assume they are for the 10 wires.

Before I get much farther with epoxy removal, I am going to design a build a tester to simulate the operation in the MH. I will be out of town for a few days and I will start that later this week.
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Old 11-13-2017, 04:49 PM   #37
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Great stuff!
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Old 11-16-2017, 02:05 PM   #38
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A little more progress today from home. Since I am getting close to components that I dont want to burn, I am using hot water to remove the epoxy. It is slower, but it works.
I dip the board into water that is just below boiling point for 10 to 15 seconds, pull it out and start chipping epoxy.
They did not make it easy, the poured some granules, similar to fine aquarium gravel, on the circuit board. That makes it harder to chip out the epoxy from around the parts.
I worked on it for about 3 hours today and this is how far I got:


I am also working up a schematic and circuit board layout as shown here:


I found the IC's are TTL inverters that I think they are using in a oscillator circuit that is similar to other fluid sensors I found online. I need to get the rest of the components ID'd before I know for sure.
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Old 11-16-2017, 02:50 PM   #39
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Wow!
If there was a Nobel Prize for Airstream Electronics, Iíd be voting for you!
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Old 11-16-2017, 03:58 PM   #40
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Home now, but still amazed at your update!
In addition...
I have some history in resins, GRP, and molding work.
Back in this time period, it was not unusual to use sawdust, wood chips, wool flock, gravel, pebbles, rags, and whatever else that was cheap and to hand, as a filler in resin, to save materials, and therefore $.
This has been replaced with micro spheres and dedicated fillers for resin.
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:46 AM   #41
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This is as far as I can get from home. I need some test gear and a good stereo microscope at work to get component values I cant read.
So this is the board cleaned well enough to get stated on cloning it.

This is a almost complete component layout

This is a preliminary schematic


Any other electronic folks out there who would like to add a circuit function description, I understand the basics, but I am not good at putting it into words. I still need to get some diode types and values and some caps need to be pulled for values. If the components did not die giving them a bath in hot water, I will hook it up and see what frequency the oscillators run at.
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Old 11-18-2017, 11:02 AM   #42
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Very, VERY cool!
But, I am no help on this stuff!
Edit:
The one thing I do find interesting is that your diagram shows the fuel low light...
That was one of the only lights that didnt come on!

I wondered how that worked when there was no obvious low fuel circuit on the tank sender.... My Alfa Romeo has an extra wire, and on the sender there is a brass strip right at the bottom of the windings that trigger the light.
I wondered if the sender in my tank was wrong, but I found only a + and ground.
That explains it. I assume, it reads the resistance fed to/from the fuel gauge, and triggers the light when it reached a preset value.
Very educational!
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