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Old 03-14-2002, 09:57 PM   #1
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Question Dash A/C

Soon this will be the hottest subject of the year.
Let's try to keep this thread to the point and informative.
Can the condenser unit be repaired, as in soldering a small leak?
Are their replacements available?
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Old 03-15-2002, 09:53 PM   #2
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The A/C place that is going to rebuild my pressure hose, said they could possibly work on the condenser unit as well. If it's not too far gone, he said. As in what? Corroded, plugged up?
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Old 03-18-2002, 07:32 PM   #3
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The condenser unit can be pulled out from under the front of the MH. I drove it on 2 stacked 2x12 to get extra clearance.
Just as I thought, the A/C unit is aftermarket, according to the GM dealer. No help from them.
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Old 03-21-2002, 05:30 PM   #4
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rebuilt pressure hose, condenser unit checked for leaks and flushed, system recharged. Cold A/C! Total $ spent 260.-
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Old 03-21-2002, 07:34 PM   #5
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Peter,

I would be interested to know what the difference in your MPG is when you run the dash air vs. generator and roof air.

I have heard some motor home owners say that the dash air uses more HP, therefore more fuel.

Overall fuel costs are not the only costs to be considered, regularly scheduled maintenance on the generator is also an expense to be factored in.

I must say that your parts cost seems very reasonable. Yours is the least expensive AC repair I have heard of!!
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Old 03-21-2002, 09:06 PM   #6
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Brett,
that was parts and labor to charge the system.
A/C is the biggest automotive rip-off.
Once you understand the system, you can gather all the parts and have a pro charge it.
The hottest part of the coach is the cabin, the roof A/C does not give you cooling comfort.
I even have a shut-off valve for the heater core. A lot of heat is coming from the motor alone.
This is Texas!
you got to be cool
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Old 03-21-2002, 09:18 PM   #7
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Peter,

Where did you install the heater core shut off valve? My PO just disconnected the heater core from the cooling system due to the heat.

I may need some heat on the windshield in the fall or winter so it is on my to do list to reconnect. A shut off valve sounds like the way to go.

Brett
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Old 03-21-2002, 10:39 PM   #8
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The shut-off valve is just inline.
I am still considering building a 2 way valve, so the coolant circulates, by-passing the heater core. I am not sure at this point, if I actually restrict coolant flow into the intake manifold, by shutting it off. Do the 454 waterpumps have the coolant ports, where they are mounted to the block? Anyone?

I would be careful connecting the heater core, without having it checked first. The reason for the disconnect might be heater core related.
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Old 03-22-2002, 10:27 AM   #9
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Air Conditioning

The laws of physics says nothing makes cold... We can only remove heat with the result being cold. Evaporators and condensors can both be repaired. Mostly they suffer mechanical damage. One of the most critical components, but over looked, is the receiver filter drier. The most damaging contaminate to a refer system is water. The receiver stops and trapps water and dirt. Belt tension is a very important part of maintence as well as cleaning all fins and tubes. Lots of A/C systems have been greatly improved by cleaning the evaporator with cleaner for same or water and soap. A/C tune ups are required. Checking vacum and lever positions as to door operations is critical for maximine cooling operation. Using a shut off for the heater core is not the best method of stopping heater operation. It does stop the flow of hot water, but allows water to become stagnate and may create corosion and possible core failure. The best long temp method is to connect heater hoses together and allow core to be dry and have some air circulation. The down side is more work is required and heater cannot be placed into service instantly. Using the roof a/c and the gen set is in many ways better because gen sets love lots of exercise, and the cost is less to operate. Many gen sets suffer from non use. A great way to winterize a gen set is to allow the gen set to use all fuel is system and "run out of fuel". This may be accomplished by installing a small pet cock type gas valve in the supply line at any point. Modern gas changes chemistry in about 4 months storage as additives evaporate. Diesel fuel can last years. Gas will change aroma as it ages. A/C sytems must be inspected and filters washed and cleaned. The roof units have filters inside RV.......... Frank
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Old 03-23-2002, 03:10 PM   #10
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Frank- are you saying that the Roof a/c is more efficient than using dash a/c? I would assume so, and since my dash a/c doesn't seem very effective, I had considered not charging it this season. It was charged last spring, but is weak at this time. The heater works like gangbusters ..but of course the 2 are seperate.
As this will be my first sumer of long distance travel in this MH I want to be ready for the hot weather.
I notice that the generator runs a long time on very little fuel.
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Old 03-23-2002, 03:20 PM   #11
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Once you hit 1/4 tank, the gen is going to shut off. Could get toasty in the summer, looking for the next gas station.
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Old 03-23-2002, 03:30 PM   #12
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Roof ac versus dash ac

The numbers usually given to rate ac units are 15 btu for roof and 16-18 btu for dash air. The roof air has lots of serious advantages. The compressor and evaporator are located in a position for a good heat exchange, the blower motor is of a good size and blows cool air in a very large pattern. I think the roof air will reduce interior temps faster. The dash air works better in motion but at a penalty for the RV. Some where I saw an articl that indicated that dash air used about 22 horse power in a standard automobile with no window coverings. The many variables are because of the many RV conditions and location. While in Florida one year, our dash and roof air were very ineffective...... Frank
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Old 04-16-2002, 12:20 PM   #13
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a/c condenser

The Surplus Center in Lincoln, NE has a new 15 x 36 inch Modine ac condenser in their catalog for $29.95. It is for heavy trucks and is not far from the size of the one in my '86 345. Doesn't look like it would be much work to make fit. Their phone is 800/488-3407. Call for a catalog if you like strange and wonderful mechanical things. Lots of hydraulic stuff. No connection other than happy customer. Neal
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Old 04-16-2002, 02:36 PM   #14
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Frank _ I would guess you are right on the HP usage for a/c.
I am going to run the roof a/c for awhile in the hot georgia springtime and see what happens. I also have two front mounted small fans that move air pretty well and might help the a/c circulate. Gas mileage is such a bear anyway.........thanks to the latest gas price increases, even more so.
Peter- by the way I wanted to mention that if you bypass the heater core, you could possibly run your motor hot. I have used the heater core to cool down engines that were on the verge of overheating, by putting on the heater, and watch the temp drop on the gauge until I could get to a pit stop to change a leaky hose or add a belt. You might have to bypass, run it and watch the gauge for awhile to be safe.
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