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05-20-2002, 07:07 PM
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#21
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Airstream Driver
1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,224
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heater core and a/c
On my recent trip I did some water temp checks.
I have no water temperature problems running my dash a/c, even when stuck in traffic. The outside temperature was around 90 degrees.
I was surprised by the different temperature running with the heater core shut-off valve open or close. With the core closed, I was running a good 15 degrees hotter (195 degrees). I guess the core acts like a small secondary radiator.
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05-21-2002, 09:49 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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It is considered a "trick of the trade" to turn your heater on, full bore if necessary, when making a loooooong climb, as well as shutting the dash air "off."
It does add additional cooling for the engine.
Better to be warm for a bit, instead of standing by the edge of the road, looking for help. Andy
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05-21-2002, 09:50 AM
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#23
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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Another concept open for opinions- I saw replacement fans at the Parts store yesterday- aluminum blades with rubber edges riveted on for max air flow, "even at low rpm". Might this be a good add on? JC Whitney has these also
Also what about using that "water wetting" agent.?
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06-03-2002, 01:15 PM
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#24
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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Well I finally broke down and had my Dash AC Fixed. All it needed was a new fill valve on the High Pressure side and an evac and fill. While they were working on the Coach I had a new fan clutch and Alternator installed as well. Best $312.00 I have spent so far.
Now for the rest of the to-do list.......... Maybe I should just go rob a bank Just kidding.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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08-03-2002, 07:38 AM
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#25
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 101
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Need help on Dash A/C.....
I know it's been a while since all you talked about the dash a/c but I need some advice. My dash a/c doesn't throw out the air worth beans....I had it checked by a mechanic. He said the motor was working fine and the 3 speed switch was working but on high the amount of air coming out is really weak. He wonders if possibly there could be a duct or hose clogged or loose. Has anyone ever run into this? If so what's the best way to check? I assume you go through the dash to check it out. Do you get a good amount of air blowing out in you MH when you have it on high?
Any advice on how to get the air pouring out (if possible) would be appreciated. As mentioned above, the roof a/c's are great for the passengers in the back but even with those on the driver seems to bake without some air up front....
Thanks
Ken
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08-03-2002, 10:02 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Ken. Check the water heater control valve. They have been known to leak, therefore adding heat into the AC duct.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
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08-03-2002, 10:14 AM
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#27
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 101
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Thanks Andy. My problem hasn't been so much the air isn't cold. There's just not any real volume blowing out. Even on high speed it seems to barely come out, like something is clogged in the vent. Should I take off the dash and start exploring around to see if anythings come loose?
Thanks
Ken
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08-03-2002, 10:50 AM
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#28
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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Ken,
The dash AC in my MH is a modified aftermarket type unit. Kind of like the ones that folks added in the 06s and 70s to a non ac car. It has a front cover that all of the AC Ducts hook on to. I would assume yours would be somewhat the same. Mine is mounted in the center of the dash over the doghouse. I have som of the same lack of blow. It has low, and med. but high is no better than med. I wonder if there is a blower motor resistor that could be bad, not allowing all of the power to get to the blower????
We are getting rain again here today, this just might be the project to work on. I will let you know if I find anything.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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08-03-2002, 04:23 PM
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#29
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Airstream Driver
1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,224
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Ken,
Both sides of the blower housing have a grill cover. You may want to check if they are clogged up with lint and debris. If you pull the driver and passenger seat, access would be possible without too much disassembling.
__________________
1994 30' Excella Front Kitchen Trailer
1990 25' Excella Travel trailer
1992 350LE Classic Touring Coach
AIR #13
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08-04-2002, 01:24 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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front cabin heat
while on this subject of heat in the cabin....has anyone done more than basic insulation around the engine area? My doghouse is well insulated, but a lot of heat still comes in at highway speeds, around it. Especially up by the driver's feet.
I insulated the small heat vent that goes directly to the riser for engine heat, to keep it from adding to the problem. I put some of that aluminum bubble insulator in the vent, and it helped some.
I am wanting to see if anyone used the mat type insulation pads you can glue in to the areas near the engine. I can keep cool at 90 degrees plus with roof air, until I hit the highway speeds and that heat seeps in. Then it is a struggle up front anyway.
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08-04-2002, 02:08 PM
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#31
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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Alan,
I have the same problem with heat. I have noticed, early in the AM when parked with AC on, if I go under the hood there is condensation on the firewall right in fromt of the drivers side. I assume there is little or no insulation there. The glue on sound deading mats should help both with heat and noise. I am considering using the lead foam when I re-do my carpeting and covering the whole drivers side floor and sidewall. Now I just need a reasonable source for it.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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08-04-2002, 03:36 PM
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#32
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Rivet Master
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,525
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let me know how that goes. Also got a source for that insulation mat? I may look at JC Whitney.
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08-10-2003, 04:39 PM
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#33
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Seattle
, WA
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 620
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Perforation?
My AC is on the blink...I took it to a guy who does AC, and he couldn't find any leak after recharging and using a hi tech sniffer. Mine has been converted to 134 two yrs. ago. Now after two weeks, it's starting to blow less cool. I've made an appt. to see an RV guy who does AC...I hope he's familiar with RV ac's!
Anyway, the first guy told me that my doghouse insulation is all falling apart. I asked if he would replace...Homie don't do dat! I wonder what kind of mechanic he is?
So i opened the doghouse today and yep, it's trashed. It's that metallic paper with some kind of sponge stuck to the wall of the DH. So I'm lookin' around and I see that on the left side (driver's) close to the hinge, there's an opening to the engine compartment from the floor. It's on the outside of the DH edge so that's why I smell exhaust at times! (I need headers). I taped it but I think I will try to have someone weld it closed, or use liquid metal.
Where can i get new insulation for the DH?
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