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Old 10-17-2015, 04:30 PM   #41
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Let's quit messing around. This is what we need:

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Old 10-17-2015, 04:33 PM   #42
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Hehehe
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Old 10-17-2015, 04:34 PM   #43
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Quote:
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Let's quit messing around. This is what we need:

Attachment 250550

That did it, Now I will go and put some air vents on the trailer
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Old 10-17-2015, 04:35 PM   #44
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No, never seen a duct connected to one of the vents. More stuff I have to learn about these?
Maybe I am being obtuse Peter. It's just that you wrote:

I have 2, one for trans fluid, the other for engine oil

.... and I wondered how you figure that.But I guess you mean figuratively and not literally? We're easily confused up here, because we are so close to the North Pole. That is the origin of the expression to be up the Pole.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:17 PM   #45
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My '82 280 454 runs at a consistent 180 on the gauge with the dash A/C running. I replaced the sensor a couple yrs back with a quality part but don't know if the gauge is accurate. But all is relative. Even if it is actually running at 190, that is fine with me.

There are times on a down hill side that the temp will drop to 165-170 on the dash gauge. It will get up to 200 when I'm back at the ranch, engine idling and backing into space and taking time to level MH on blocks. This is understandable with no real air flow at this time.

Up in Redding CA in the summer the outside temps get over 110. Last summer as we headed to Burning Man, it was over 110 and mostly mountain driving from Redding to the Nevada boarder. The fan clutch engaged a lot but engine mostly ran between 180-190 with the dash A/C running.

I think the trick for me was the radiator recore about 3 yrs back, a stock new water pump, 195 degree thermostat and a new AC Delco OE fan clutch. I went through an Autozone and a Napa fan clutch before I smacked myself with a bat and spent the money on an AC Delco unit. I also was running a 160 thermostat. The first two fan clutches either ran all the time or when it should never have been running.

After reading some research from leading engine cooling experts, I learned that the chinese made fan clutch's engagement temp was lowered to come on at a lower air flow temp...this was probably one of the reasons the Autozone unit ran almost constantly. I also concluded from the research that it is not advisable to run a lower degree thermostat since the cooling components are matched to work together for the most efficient cooling and engine performance. Since it is such a pain in the ass to drain the coolant and change the thermostat, I'm leaving in the 195 degree thermostat and won't be running any more "tests" and what the heck, I'm not looking to compete in the 1/4 mile.
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Old 10-17-2015, 05:25 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punch View Post
Let's quit messing around. This is what we need:

Attachment 250550
OOOOoooo Where can I get a set of those? I wonder if the louvers off a late 70's, early 80's Trans Am would work?

Cheers
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Old 10-17-2015, 06:15 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Punch View Post
Maybe I am being obtuse Peter. It's just that you wrote:

I have 2, one for trans fluid, the other for engine oil

.... and I wondered how you figure that.But I guess you mean figuratively and not literally? We're easily confused up here, because we are so close to the North Pole. That is the origin of the expression to be up the Pole.
dry humor, man... Richard decribed his working by transfluid leaking out the vent, since I have 2 I took it to the next level of "the vents are working"
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Old 10-17-2015, 08:07 PM   #48
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dry humor, man... Richard decribed his working by transfluid leaking out the vent, since I have 2 I took it to the next level of "the vents are working"
Oh, now I get it..... I've always been pretty quick on the cupcake, or something like that 
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Old 10-18-2015, 06:52 AM   #49
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Yeah Dean, I agree with you...last winter when I had the 325's nose off for all the work I replaced the Napa fan clutch unit with an AC Delco. Also new Gates water pump all hoses clamps etc. I had filled the radiator with CLR while I was doing the work, but what I should have done was re-cored the radiator.....this winter I have to remove it again. I think I am going to upgrade the three row to a four row and I was able to score a factory seven blade fan to replace the five blade. It took me a long time but I was able to score a factory 192 degree thermostat. It is a high flow designed for the added hose for the under couch heater core and the added hot water heater DSI unit. This summer I had a few uphill climbs where the guage showed 240 plus and the red "HOT" light came on. Since I want to tow my chevy cruze next year it is mandatory that the cooling system is as perfect as can be.
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Old 10-18-2015, 06:58 AM   #50
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Bob, that made me realise that I have never seen my warning light come on. Are those set for a specific temperature? I suppose if that's not coming on, I shouldn't worry about the gauge.

Reading the fan clutch discussion: do your units not have electric fans then?
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