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ViewRVs · 07-18-2002, 09:28 PM

Brett,

I don't care what the others say about you, I like you!

You correctly diagnosed my engine's mis-fire as a bad spark plug wire. I spent $27 at Discount Auto Parts for pretty good spark plug wires (8mm silicone heat resistant) and replaced the bad wires. Two of them fell apart as I removed them. They looked like custom jobs. Not being known for my mechanical abilties (more for looks and brains than mechanical abilty), actually replaced the wires in the correct order! The engine ran well up to and back from the truck stop to top off the fuel. NO MIS-FIRES!

Thanks again Brett. You saved me a ton of capital!

thenewkid64 · 07-18-2002, 09:32 PM

Thanks Fred, you made my day!!

Glad to be of help....But I must still defer to Peter, I do not have the guts to de-skin a coach and put it back together!

ViewRVs · 07-19-2002, 06:47 AM

After Peter's riviting class, I think I may try to replace the plastic bumper trim on my 345. Most of it is gone leaving the empty track around the coach. I think I'll just go with the original black as opposed to the chrome that others have put in. It won't be soon though. Maybe this winter when it cools down.

This 345 is going to make me a mechanic yet!

ALANSD · 07-19-2002, 08:26 AM

Hey Fred just a suggestion...I carry an extra set of the spark plug wires as they are quite prone to heat damage. My wires were 2 yrs old when i got the coach and they were burnt badly. NAPA's are lifetime replacement warranty whatever the reason. Peter has the Jacob's ceramics which never burn out. They cost 159 a set though.
Also a note on the WIX filter chart- NAPA carries Wix as their own brand, the numbers didn't seem to match to the conversion, but their book lists the ONAN numbers also. That number converted exactly to a NAPA part. My ONAN now sports a new filter and Castrol SYNTECH oil. It deserves that after running so well on my two week trip.

ViewRVs · 07-19-2002, 10:25 AM

I really thought about the Jacobs but my capital can't swing it yet. Maybe in the next year now that I know how to replace them. I need to get my front air bags replaced next.

I think I'll swap the heavy air hoses for a lighter yellow coil kind and get an extra set of the spark plug wires. I do need to replenish the things like extra belts and hoses so I don't get stuck at a shop without them.

Quick update on the A/C. I had the generator and A/C on while working on the plug wires. The front A/C drained steadily and more than I have ever seen it. I am going to buy a air-hose adapter to blow the drain tube out with air instead of water like I did last time. A few blasts before each trip/use might buy me some time.

thenewkid64 · 07-19-2002, 04:32 PM

Fred,

The last time I had my home AC serviced they used a shop vac and an adapter to suck out all the gook in my drain line. I understand the blow out with air, but if there are debris in the pan that are blocking the drain holes blowing air in would just move it unitil it gets caught again???? If you have access to a smaller shop vac you could suck out the debris and that way it there is gook in the lines temselves you might remove it and solve the problem once and for all. Before trying this though I would wait on some advice from Inland Andy regarding the possible damage that the vacuming could cause! Hence my suggestion to use a small shop vac, not one of those 5HP inustrial ones that some of us have

Here that giant sucking sound..... yea that's just Brett cleaning his garage!

PeterH-350LE · 07-19-2002, 06:15 PM

I had a great spark from the plug to the exhaust manifold when I experienced repeated plug wire boot melt down. Besides the ticking sound and the misses, I tried to imagine what a lot of heat, gasoline fumes and nice fat spark could do in my engine compartment. All in a sudden $159.- didn't seem like a lot of money....
All jokes aside there are advantages running bad plug wires: You save money on Motor oil!
The unignited gasoline runs down your pistons, keeps them nice and clean and keeps your crankcase full.

thenewkid64 · 07-19-2002, 08:07 PM

Peter,

I do belive you can find the bright spot in any problem

So I guess you could say that using a little oil is a good thing, because you know that you are firing on all cylinders!

I understand the benifit of the Jacobs wires and the heat resistive qualities, but the wires on my coach have close to 10 K on them and I have seen only 1 boot that had a melted spot. At 27.00 per set you can replace alot of wires before you spend the same money. I guess it is a budget and mindset type of thing. I check my wires before each trip as part of my pretrip routine. I just figure looking everything over in the doghouse before a trip is a good idea with a 28 year old powertrain. I also check for mice, and cats, and squirrels! I do not want to have the smell with me on a long trip!

PeterH-350LE · 07-19-2002, 09:16 PM

<quote>So I guess you could say that using a little oil is a good thing, because you know that you are firing on all cylinders!/<quote>

Brett, you touched on something.
Never trust a 20+ year old engine that doesn't use some oil.
Never buy a rebuilt carburator, because it's probably worse than the one you are taking out.
I did that once, buy a rebuilt carburator for my previous MH. It ran so good, I didn't even have to add any oil all the way to Colorado. The oil started to look real black and was aweful thin and when I put my nose on it, I realized that it was mainly 89 octane.
But I made up for it, after I replaced the rebuild with an Edelbrock carb (great carbs, btw), I used twice as much oil! I replaced the engine soon after that.

thenewkid64 · 07-20-2002, 06:56 AM

Peter,

I now feel much better about the fact That my engine uses about a qt of oil per 1K miles. It is amazing how more information can completely change your perspective. I was mulling over the consumpsion issue all the way back from Dallas. I did buy and carry extra oil with me and I did check it each night afre we had been stopped for a couple of hours. But I was concerned about the usage on the way back and was thinking that I really do not want to have to repace/rebuild the engine. In your opnion what should be the critera for overhaul? You mentioned you did it in a prior MH after replacing the carb and finding out how much oil you were really burning.... Is that the first indicator?

Thanks.

PeterH-350LE · 07-20-2002, 08:29 AM

Brett,
that is what I like about this forum and the interaction we have: the collective Airstream mind.
Compression supersedes oil consumption.
Spark plugs tell it all.
Visually checking oil is only part of the equation. Touch it and smell it. Black oil is a sign of an engine running rich, either due to wrong carb adjustments, bad carb or faulty plug wires.
If you are really concerned, do a compression check. If all cylinders are within tolerance, why worry about a little oil consumption.
A real good way to speed up your engines demise, is to run it often, but never bring it up to operating temp.
I personally like the smell of a new engine, which was the main reason for replacing the one in my previous MH.

I would seriously consider budgeting a new engine with any of the following signs:
knocking (sooner or later you going to throw a rod)
blue smoke upon acceleration (not upon starting)
low compression
one or more fouled spark plugs

ALANSD · 07-20-2002, 05:48 PM

as I had said in another post, I used about 2+ quarts of oil on my 2000 mile trip in the 95 degree weather ( and uphill.....both ways)
My plugs were pretty clean when I changed them prior to the trip, although somewhat burnt, but not oily or carboned much at all. I had one bad spark plug wire, but the new set was only 30 bucks....and I carried a new set of belts- less than 5 bucks each at NAPA..I also carried a hose repair kit, hose clamps, a lot of duct tape, and an extra starter, which I considered cheap insurance at 40 dollars. I returned the starter when I got home.
I know what Fred means about the budget, as I have a lot , I mean a lot of future projects in mind, but can only do one little one at a time. Check this out-
1. Replace carpeting in bathroom, kitchen,etc. maybe all of it- tile, pergo, not sure yet.
2. Redo my wood stripe to another look.
3. Repaint the lower body grey area....maybe aluminum paint like PPG makes?
Maybe just repaint it Dupont grey as original.
4. Buy the tow bar for my Saturn which already has the tow bar mounts- the bar is $335.
5. Fill the gas tank....just kidding.
6. Change out the old Sony stereo to something that works better.
7.Put in a Fantastic vent.
8. Upgrade the exhaust system to Hedman or some such headers...
9. Jacobs electronics system.
10. Get a second mortgage to pay for the above
Enough for this coming year!!
Sure is good to have a plan, though.

PeterH-350LE · 07-20-2002, 07:39 PM

Sooo,
Brett's 454 uses 1 qt per 1000 miles
Alan's 454 uses 1 qt per 1000 miles
Peter's 454 uses 1 qt per 1000 miles
Curtis's454 uses 1 qt+per 1000 miles
I think we have a pattern. Maybe we should be collectively paranoid?

Fred's 454 uses ? qt per 1000 miles
I remember Fred mentioning that his oil is still black even after changing it. Maybe Fred is one of those 10W-octane driver. Gosh, I just love to get Fred all worked up.

Any one else wishes to report?

ViewRVs · 07-20-2002, 08:29 PM

I haven't check my oil recently but when I change it I'll get up close and personal with it just for you Peter!

I haven't been burning oil...

...which plays right into your hands!

#1..Never trust a 20 year old engine that does not burn oil.

#2..You drove all those miles and didn't burn any oil...

I will get the spark plugs changed now that I have slimmed down enough to fit behind the front wheel where the access is much better than from up top! I'll look at the plugs when I take them out. What should I look for? Any suggestions on spark plug brands or quality?

PeterH-350LE · 07-20-2002, 09:35 PM

Fred,
A brown to grayish/tan color means correct heat range and operating temperature.
Oil deposits or oily coatings would indicate problems with rings and/or valve guides.
My book says Delco R44T, not sure about your rig.
Get a small tube of anti-seize compound to put on the threads prior to installing.
Always screw plugs in by hand first. If you can not reach in there, stick a short piece of 3/8 fuel line over the plug to use it as an extension.
Cross threading is not recommended!!

ALANSD · 07-21-2002, 08:10 PM

the oil use sounds pretty normal...how about those dipsticks? The longest dipstick I have ever seen! I heard of one that had the tube cracked at the base where it went into the oil pan, the owner kept checking hs oil and thought it was too low, so he put in 3 or 4 quarts. He was lucky as he could have floated the motor...

thenewkid64 · 07-21-2002, 09:07 PM

Alan,

I have to agree on the dipstick lenght. It goes on forvever. the biggets problem I have is reinserting it afer checking the level. I have to do it "just right" or it will bind. This is not a task to be attempted in close quarters

PeterH-350LE · 07-21-2002, 09:56 PM

Just read the reports about oil usage over on the
'oil and trans fluid' thread.
Jim came in with 1 qt per 600-700 miles
Dr Joe with 1/2 qt per 800 miles on his maiden journey (with 2 plug wires crossed!)
Dip Stick: Alan, I had to cut my dip stick tube to get the right exhaust manifold out. And there was no way to put a new tube in with the motor installed.

I used a piece of fuel line and two clamps to keep the tube together, has been working fine.