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Old 05-19-2006, 07:09 PM   #15
Well Preserved

1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 20,368
Originally Posted by outofcontrol
Your list is spot on. I'm going to cruise down it until I find the problem. Are the "Lower Control Arm Bushings" the same as what I would call the "sway-bar bushings"? I'm not a truck/car guy. Motorcycles are my forte.

Thanks again!

Kevin, the lower control arm bushings are the part that goes from the lower conrtol arm to the frame of the chassis. They are held in place by a pair of nuts on a threaded rod/shaft assembly. The lower control arm, for the not-so-truck-oriented guys, is the piece the bottom of the shock absorber hooks to. A quick (although no foolproof) way to tell if the bushings are bad, is to look straight on at the threaded rod/shaft, and see if the washers inside the nuts are in line with the bushings. If they are, chances are very good the bushings are okay, if the bushings seem to be sitting where you can see part of the bushing past the washer, the bushings are probably bad.

Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
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Old 05-19-2006, 09:50 PM   #16
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1996 28' Excella
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 316
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Problem fixed!!!

Thanks all of you!!!

I got the new rubber lines on, bled out the lines, checked for leaks, made a few test stops in the driveway, then took her out on the street. Two more tests at slow speed, then I took her up to 25mph.

Amazing. Not only does she not pull, but she stopps much better! I guess it helps to have 2 brakes working in the front.

The PO helped me out by letting me know all the service the brake shop did. They must have flushed the brake lines when they did the brakes because the fluid was so clear I couldn't tell when the new stuff hit.

The only problem now is getting rid of my automatic compensation by slightly turning the wheel as I apply the brake. I even hit the brakes with my hands off the wheel, and it's perfect.

I'm temped to replace the rear flex hoses as a preventative move.


1996 Airstream Excella 28'
2007 GMC Duramax 4x4 CCSB
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Old 05-19-2006, 09:51 PM   #17
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1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
The front 1 ton brake rotors are not inexpensive .I do not recoomend the cheap bargain rotors made in china (not all china stuff is of poor quality) There is a difference ,these heavy coaches need the best quality parts .Napa certainly is an excellent place to go for parts.Going cheaper doesnt mean better ,you will get what you pay for i gaurantee it.

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Old 05-19-2006, 10:04 PM   #18
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1960 24' Tradewind
santa barbara , California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,352
The lower GM p-30 control arm bushings are a shaft type .They do not use rubber bushings ,they have steel threaded ends that screw into the control arm and onto the shaft .they are very durable and made for these truck chassis also for any GM 1 ton of this type.They do where out do to the steel on steel thread style of operation and need to be greased regularly.A very common sound you hear when they are worn is a snapping or click that is distinctive when coming to a stop as the arm (shifts) slightly forward.Overlander 63 has described the light truck 1/2 ton or passenger car style setup used on most all gm cars and trucks ,caprice/impalas,camaros etc.The upper control arms on the 1 tons p-30 are the same as i described in the beginning of this post ,they too will snap or make a noise when the thread type bushing setup wears out .They are very stout however that is why they are used in the heaviest duty applications

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Old 05-27-2006, 12:50 PM   #19
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Not quite Heavy duty... My D/Ds car pulled 2 the left, so I done the strip down job, but first I remembered what I had bn taught, We drive on the LEFT over here, so our N/S brakes get all the Crap from the roads, also all the wet 2 wash it off agn, puddles & so on, the Right one don't get as washed as the left one does, NO puddles on the, it WAS the off side calliper stickin, I stripped it down, new seals, new discs new pads, BOTH SIDES, the brake fluid was black, so I re-bled the entire system, after I replaced the rear shoes as well 4 Her... now Her brakes r BRILL, infact bttr than mine, I got time out in a couple of weeks, so I'll do Mine... I tried the " Free-Off method, where U get someone 2 pump the pistons out & lever them bk a few times, BUT it damages the seal in the master Cylinder if the reverse fast preasure turns the seal inside out... Yep that's a pain 2 sort...But I think renewal IS the SAFEST option, & 2 Me, whats a few 's compared with the cost of a childs life ???... Good luck...Chris.....

It's NICE 2B Important...but it's more Important 2B NICE...Chris.....
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