So I bought my motor home a couple months ago, and today I decide to replace the rear main seal, I don't think anything of it, I've replaced the one on my jeep before should be easy right?
well, here is the problem
I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place the tranny and the front axle set up
this is a 1977 Argosy, 454 on a p-30 motor home chassis
Anyone have any ideas?
I've tried loosening the motor mounts, and then jacking up the engine, but I still don't have enough clearance.
I guess the next step would be to disconnect the tranny from the engine.
Or maybe my best bet is too put it all back together and let it leak.
I did my old P30 SOB by removing the transmission support and driveshaft, unbolting the tranny and sliding it rearward on a rolling jack. It wasn't really that bad since I could sit up under the chassis.
__________________ Hi Ho Silver RV!
Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie and- 'Epiphany' the 29' Airstream
Oil pan must be removed to access the two piece seal. The lower rear main bearing cap must be removed, and the upper seal must be turned out as shown below:
Fig. 43 Fabricated seal starting tool for helix type seal.
Fig. 44 Crankshaft rear oil seal. Helix type
EXC. V6-231 & 1986---87 V6-262, V8-305 & V8-350
These engines are equipped with a two-piece, helix type rear seal. A seal starting tool must be used to prevent the upper seal half from coming into contact with the sharp edge of the block.
When necessary to correct an oil leak due to a defective seal, always replace the upper and lower seal halves as a unit. When installing either half, lubricate the lip portion only with engine oil, keeping oil off the parting line surface as this is treated with glue. Always clean crankshaft surface before installing a new seal.
To replace the lower seal, remove seal from groove in bearing cap, using a small screwdriver.
Insert new seal and roll it in place with finger and thumb.
To replace the upper seal (with engine in car) use a small hammer and tap a brass pin punch on one end of the seal until it protrudes far enough to be removed with pliers.
Position tip of tool, between crankshaft and seal seat in cylinder block.
Position seal between crankshaft and tip of tool with seal bead contacting tip of tool. Ensure oil seal lip is facing toward front of engine.
Roll seal around crankshaft, using tool as a ``shoehorn'' to protect seal bead from sharp corner of seal seat surface in cylinder block. Tool must remain in position until seal is properly seated with both ends flush with block.
Remove tool, using care not to dislodge seal.
Install new seal into bearing cap with tool as outlined previously.
Install bearing cap with sealant applied to the cap to case interface. Do not apply sealant to seal ends. Torque rear main bearing cap bolts to specifications as listed in the ``Engine Tightening Specification Chart.''
__________________
Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
Last edited by overlander63; 05-15-2008 at 07:17 PM.
Reason: removed non-working links.
Thanks for the replys guys,
I think I'll have to get a tranny jack and do it like HiHoAgRV suggests
May be a few days before I can get the jack though,
I'll try and keep everyone posted.
Oil pan must be removed to access the two piece seal. The lower rear main bearing cap must be removed, and the upper seal must be turned out as shown below:...
Come on Terry, we need more details to convince us that you REALLY know what your talking about
Great details
__________________ Hi Ho Silver RV!
Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie and- 'Epiphany' the 29' Airstream
Are you sure that the leak is from the rear seal? I had a pretty bad leak in our 345 that looked just like the rear main seal. Turned out to be leaking between the block and the oil filter base. We had that gasket replaced and have NO leaks at all now. I just hate oil spots.
Rob
Are you sure that the leak is from the rear seal? I had a pretty bad leak in our 345 that looked just like the rear main seal. Turned out to be leaking between the block and the oil filter base. We had that gasket replaced and have NO leaks at all now. I just hate oil spots.
Rob
"Ditto" on Rob's comment.
My 454 leaked from basically where he said. The engine oil cooler mounts on the oil filter assembly. The leak was in one of the assemblages.
I've also seen the oil sending unit leak from the area above the bell housing in small block engines. If you didn't look up top, you'd think you had a main seal leak.
__________________
Terry Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine
AIR#2611
I put everything back together yesterday, and fired her up, and it was definitly leeking around the oil cooler, I had taken it off trying to get some room to remove the oil pan. So thats the next gasket I'm gonna replace at leist I know I can get to this one.
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Between a Rock and a hardplace 454 p-30 chassis
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