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Old 09-21-2006, 12:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
Ron and Debbie,
If they were the post "blade style" disconnect I've heard of them breaking often. I have (from the PO) one of those big red West Marine battery cutoffs which seems to work fine. They make versions for to batteries which allow you to turn off everything from one place...but as mentioned earlier I would ultimately like to a setup more like Tim's coach where I can turn them on or off from inside the coach.

Tim,
You can easily test the battery connect by listening for a "click" when you hit the switch (this is the solenoid closing) and looking at the voltage meter on the dash...it should go up slightly.
Steven,

I really appreciate that. Amazing how it's usually the simple stuff one overlooks - at least that's usually true in my case. As soon as my wife gets home , we're going to test this. It's probably working just like everything else I've been testing lately. Off the subject, but I took the time to "properly" calibrate my monitor panel read-outs yesterday. I had thought the fresh water tank monitor didn't even work, and the others were all way off. Turns out they ALL work, but were terribly mis-calibrated. "When all else fails, read the instructions," - as they say...

Again thanks,
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Old 09-21-2006, 01:38 PM   #16
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Tim,
Assuming you have a negative ground system. Very Likely. Switch only the positive. Switching the negative could cause a safety problem.

Using a good Marine grade Battery switch would be good choice. Made for wet are use and high current.

Checkout westmarine.com
Electrical, Batteries and Accessories.
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thecatsandi
Tim,
Assuming you have a negative ground system. Very Likely. Switch only the positive. Switching the negative could cause a safety problem.

Using a good Marine grade Battery switch would be good choice. Made for wet are use and high current.

Checkout westmarine.com
Electrical, Batteries and Accessories.
Michelle,

Thanks for this. I have determined that the original factory switches on the inside wall do work, so I can skip the battery mounted switch completely, but I can appreciate the use of Marine grade switches. I appreciate your taking the time to communicate this to me.

Best,
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Old 05-27-2018, 06:29 PM   #18
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Images of cut off in battery box.

Hello,
We have a 2011 25 footer and I want to put in a battery cut off switch. The problem I have is the battery box is very shallow in comparison to the newer models.
When I google search images, the ones mounted outside the box will probably not work, too tight. So is there anyone out there that has fitted a switch that they are satisfied with and what is it and please if possible post an image.
I do not want to cut the bottom of the battery box off and weld an extension, that enables me to attach a switch.
Airstream has been shortsighted in this aspect. If I disconnect shore power, and hit the disconnect at the entrance door the batteries go flat in just over a week and they are only a year old.
Thanks for any helping hands here.
Cheers,
James.
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Old 05-27-2018, 06:41 PM   #19
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This is an old thread so some of the original members who posted may not be active on Air Forums any longer. However, there are plenty of people who will likely chime in with suggestions. I guess I'm one of them.

Look at the positive cable from the batteries and determine where it enters your trailer. Now, find that same location inside the trailer. Depending on your floorplan, the positive wire will enter under the couch, under the bed, under the dinette, etc. at the front of the trailer (probably).

If there is a terminal where the positive cable enters the trailer that will be helpful as you can simple disconnect the positive at that terminal, add a manual on/off switch and then add a new section of positive cable from the switch back to the original positive terminal. Probably clear as mud right?

My point is... consider putting the on/off switch inside the trailer rather than putting it in your battery box. I've done this modification on two Class B motorhomes but the concept is the same on a trailer.

By the way, if you don't have a terminal inside the trailer that's okay too. Just find a convenient location to cut the positive wire and add the switch. It may take a few other modifications such as adding length to the cables but it can be done. You may need a crimping tool for large diameter wire, a few terminals, maybe some solder. Or find a suitable RV service center.
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Old 05-28-2018, 09:27 AM   #20
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Yep, I had thought about doing it on the inside. On our model the cables are under the bed, we have compartment underneath it with an exterior drop down door. The cables run around the edge.....I put an electrical heating element in our water heater and added a signal booster for a tire minder under there a while back. Had to take the whole bed assembly out to do it all properly. So as you say it is doable from the inside, I just did not want to dig so deep to install a switch.

I am replacing my air conditioner at the moment, have the old one off, the new one ready to go on but the weather here has been very wet since Saturday, so waiting for a break. Got a cracking deal on the new AC PPL Motorhomes had a special $988 no one else came close, the rest were all around $1350
Anyhow thank you for the advice, I will obviously have to engage my grey cells a little more on this one.
Cheers,
James.
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