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swebster · 01-18-2005, 02:43 PM

Brian,
Nice job on fixing your issues. Consider adding some battery cut off switches to help save those batteries.

As someone who spent a year and a bunch of money on mechanicals - I feel your pain. Some of us budget minded MH owners should form a support group: "Hi, my name is Steven and it's been three months since I last went camping in my motorhome" - "Hi Steven!"

Go on a local overnight trip and soon! I needed to remind myself and the family why we own this giant thing every now and then.

85/345 · 01-19-2005, 09:07 AM

Steven,

I went on an overnight trip in my inlaws front yard. I am storing my AS at my inlaws and over the holidays me, my wife and kids spent a couple of nights in the AS. I was surprised at how comfortable it was and how warm it stayed. My wife was even more surprised. This really helped bring the spirits up. I figured this was the best place to try it out because if anything happened we were just a few feet from the house. Everything went well, heat worked, generator worked the batteries worked. So we're ready for our first trip, just waiting for a little warmer weather.

I think I do have a battery cutoff already or at least I have been using it as one. I have attached the photo you took of your battery compartment and I have the same cutoff that is in the picture. Am I right in saying this is the battery cutoff?

Thanks,
Brian

87MH · 01-19-2005, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85/345

.....I think I do have a battery cutoff already or at least I have been using it as one. I have attached the photo you took of your battery compartment and I have the same cutoff that is in the picture. Am I right in saying this is the battery cutoff?

Brian:

I am going to jump on this question -

The disconnect you attached the picture of disconnects the house (coach) batteries (the two that are charged by the univolt). The PO of Steven's unit had added a cut off (the red switch) for the chassis (motor or "auto") battery as well.

One note of caution - if you run the univolt with the battery switch in the off position the univolt will put out a high and "dirty" voltage...as expensive as the "smart boards" in the fridge and the water heater are, it is best to make sure the batteries are hooked up whenever the univolt is in operation to "smooth out" the voltage.

swebster · 01-19-2005, 10:25 AM

Brian,
That is the chassis battery cut-off switch and I'm pretty sure it's a factory installed item. The other one was installed by the PO on my 345 and disconnects the coach batteries. As a matter of procedure I always disconnect both connections whenever I park the AS.

Good to hear your "driveway camping trip" was a success. These 345's sure are comfortable. We're all itchin' for warmer weather around here. My five year old asks me daily "when are we going in the RV?".

01-19-2005, 10:29 AM

I just tried posting twice and neither one is showing up??????? I was using the Forum inteface, under 2005 Limited.

ALANSD · 01-19-2005, 12:43 PM

You might find that alternator is not quite strong enough for you, but since you already have it, make it a "next time " it goes issue and replace it with more amperage. I have been very happy with the charging from my new one.
I kept my old 60 amp one as an emergency use item, and went with 135 amps.
I find my chassis battery stays charged a long time with no problems. I put a disconnect switch on my radio ( an extra toggle on the dash) so it is completely off when parked . I don't mind having to reset the stations.

Tarheel · 01-26-2005, 01:31 PM

I understand that a fully charged battery should show 12.6 volts and that 12 volts it is discharged. I have seen a chart that shows the percentage of charge by looking at the voltage but I have not been able to locate the chart. Does anyone know the relationship between voltage and percentage of useful life in the battery?

markdoane · 01-26-2005, 01:39 PM

Here's a chart, about 2/3 of the way down the page.

Note that you need to let the batteries 'rest' for a few hours before taking a reading.

http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12v...t.htm#batchart

Tarheel · 01-26-2005, 02:49 PM

Thanks alot Don that is what I was looking for

85/345 · 01-28-2005, 01:15 PM

I checked the cutoff switch I have and it definetly is a cutoff for the coach/house batteries. I don't have one for the chassis battery but that is on my list of things to do.

Another note about the new alternator I installed. It is not putting out enough amps/volts (not sure which one) according to the guage on the dash. It is reading around 12. From what I know isn't it supposed to be reading around 14? I am assuming and Alan reaffirmed this with his post that the alternator isn't big enough, not enough amps. If this is the case do I need to change it or just use it until it dies?

Thanks, Brian

74Argosy24MH · 01-28-2005, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85/345

Another note about the new alternator I installed. It is not putting out enough amps/volts (not sure which one) according to the guage on the dash.

It is a voltmeter and don't trust the factory gauges; they are good to see a trend, but not really accurate.

Got a good digital meter? Check the output right at the alternator. If you have an isolator you are loosing 1/2v at least there, more through the rest of the harness.

I would use the alternator you have and see how it works. Unless you really drag the house batteries down it will get them back up ok. If you do go with a high output altenator you have to change the wiring to the batteries and the isolator.

John