Brian,
I was able to take some pictures of my 345 for you. If your cables are setup like mine (mine were cracked also) then the only way to correct a cracked terminal in the middle of the cable is to replace the entire thing.
I had these made up locally. The ground is shared by all three batteries then there is a two terminal positive cable for the coach and a regular heavy duty positive for the chassis. They eachl pass through their own battery disconnect (see pics one is the factory switch and the other is a big red marine switch) and terminate on the back of the battery drawer.
There is a remote relay on the back of the drawer which when activated ties the two coach batteries to the chassis system (Battery boost switch in the glove box does this) so you can "jump" your chassis from your coach batteries.
I definetly need new battery cables. Since I am putting new batteries in might as well make sure the battery cables are good. Thanks for the pictures, those will definetly help. I noticed in the picture there is something red what is that?
Brian,
That is an aftermarket battery disconnect from a marine store. I was installed by the previous owner and disconnects the chassis battery. You can get it from West Marine or any marine store.
Reading through all the replies I noticed that no one answered your question regarding Die Hards. Yes, they make a deep cycle and it is very good. I have used it on my trailer with happy results and when it its time to change out the batteries on my MO they will be Die Hards. As with all Sears products they have a good, better, and best. I suggest the best, watch the sales and you may get a good bargain as well.
I replaced the alternator and all the batteries. I got the alternator from Advanced and the batteries from Sam's, I can't remember the name of them. I went with lowest priced batteries for a couple of reasons. First I have had to put a lot into the motor home to get it running properly and suitable for traveling with my wife and two kids. Secondly I haven't even made a trip in it yet and I have had to spend a lot of money on it. So with that said I do have it running smoothly and all the batteries seem to be doing well. I will know more once I take a couple of trips in it.
Brian,
Nice job on fixing your issues. Consider adding some battery cut off switches to help save those batteries.
As someone who spent a year and a bunch of money on mechanicals - I feel your pain. Some of us budget minded MH owners should form a support group: "Hi, my name is Steven and it's been three months since I last went camping in my motorhome" - "Hi Steven!"
Go on a local overnight trip and soon! I needed to remind myself and the family why we own this giant thing every now and then.
I went on an overnight trip in my inlaws front yard. I am storing my AS at my inlaws and over the holidays me, my wife and kids spent a couple of nights in the AS. I was surprised at how comfortable it was and how warm it stayed. My wife was even more surprised. This really helped bring the spirits up. I figured this was the best place to try it out because if anything happened we were just a few feet from the house. Everything went well, heat worked, generator worked the batteries worked. So we're ready for our first trip, just waiting for a little warmer weather.
I think I do have a battery cutoff already or at least I have been using it as one. I have attached the photo you took of your battery compartment and I have the same cutoff that is in the picture. Am I right in saying this is the battery cutoff?
.....I think I do have a battery cutoff already or at least I have been using it as one. I have attached the photo you took of your battery compartment and I have the same cutoff that is in the picture. Am I right in saying this is the battery cutoff?
Brian:
I am going to jump on this question -
The disconnect you attached the picture of disconnects the house (coach) batteries (the two that are charged by the univolt). The PO of Steven's unit had added a cut off (the red switch) for the chassis (motor or "auto") battery as well.
One note of caution - if you run the univolt with the battery switch in the off position the univolt will put out a high and "dirty" voltage...as expensive as the "smart boards" in the fridge and the water heater are, it is best to make sure the batteries are hooked up whenever the univolt is in operation to "smooth out" the voltage.
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Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
Brian,
That is the chassis battery cut-off switch and I'm pretty sure it's a factory installed item. The other one was installed by the PO on my 345 and disconnects the coach batteries. As a matter of procedure I always disconnect both connections whenever I park the AS.
Good to hear your "driveway camping trip" was a success. These 345's sure are comfortable. We're all itchin' for warmer weather around here. My five year old asks me daily "when are we going in the RV?".
You might find that alternator is not quite strong enough for you, but since you already have it, make it a "next time " it goes issue and replace it with more amperage. I have been very happy with the charging from my new one.
I kept my old 60 amp one as an emergency use item, and went with 135 amps.
I find my chassis battery stays charged a long time with no problems. I put a disconnect switch on my radio ( an extra toggle on the dash) so it is completely off when parked . I don't mind having to reset the stations.
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
I understand that a fully charged battery should show 12.6 volts and that 12 volts it is discharged. I have seen a chart that shows the percentage of charge by looking at the voltage but I have not been able to locate the chart. Does anyone know the relationship between voltage and percentage of useful life in the battery?
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Past President Tidewater Unit 111
visit tidewater Virginia's web page @ www.tidewaterwbcci.com
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