Ball joint replacement

[PeterH-350LE]

The Moog upper and lower ball joints arrived and I am planning on installing them in the near future.
Napa has a loaner tool kit to press the new ones in, getting the old ones out appears to require a specialty tool.
Anyone done this ?

[tevake]

Moving forward as usual Peter. :-)

I just changed tie rods on my Porsche. To separate the ball joint at the outboard ends I used a special tool. It's a wedge shaped tool .
With a slot in the center section and a stout handle that you pound on to drive the sharp end of the wedge into the center gap of the ball joint till it pops open.

Maybe a truck parts store would have a big one to rent.

Keep us posted on how this job goes for you.

Cheers Richard

[overlander63]

A ball joint separator can be used, or if you are fairly coordinated, you can loosen the castellated nut on the ball joint, and whack the hell out of the spindle where the ball joint is attached.

[mayco]

We call them a pickle fork around these here parts




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[PeterH-350LE]

These can not be removed with a picklefork nor by impact with a hammer, since the balljoint housing itself is pressed into place

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

These can not be removed with a picklefork nor by impact with a hammer, since the balljoint housing itself is pressed into place

I think all of us thought you were talking about removing the ball joint from the spindle, so you could remove the joint. Once you get the joint separated from the spindle, you'll need what is called a ball joint press. An impact gun to turn the threaded bolt in the press will be mighty handy, though not strictly necessary.

[mayco]

Ahhhhhhhhh. I watched as he did mine and I dont recall him using a press or pickle forks. I do remember a 2lb sledge being involved but my memory just sucks. He did the broken side on site and had very few tools with him. Dog gone it Peter, I stood there and watched and cant remember..sorry. If I recall Ill let you know.

Mike

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by mayco

Ahhhhhhhhh. I watched as he did mine and I dont recall him using a press or pickle forks. I do remember a 2lb sledge being involved but my memory just sucks. He did the broken side on site and had very few tools with him. Dog gone it Peter, I stood there and watched and cant remember..sorry. If I recall Ill let you know.

Mike

the 2lb sledge hammer way is what I am trying to avoid. He must have had some kind of a press to remove the joint, besides loosening the tapered part of the joint.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by overlander63

I think all of us thought you were talking about removing the ball joint from the spindle, so you could remove the joint. Once you get the joint separated from the spindle, you'll need what is called a ball joint press. An impact gun to turn the threaded bolt in the press will be mighty handy, though not strictly necessary.

Terry,
Yes, I was wondering if the press tool to install it, can also remove it with the proper attachments. Sorry for not being clear in the beginning.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

the 2lb sledge hammer way is what I am trying to avoid. He must have had some kind of a press to remove the joint, besides loosening the tapered part of the joint.

The press looks like a really heavy-duty C clamp. It comes with several sleeves, spacers, and adapters, so you don't destroy anything.

[mayco]

Thats what he used Terry.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Terry,
Yes, I was wondering if the press tool to install it, can also remove it with the proper attachments. Sorry for not being clear in the beginning.

Yes, that can be used to remove and install ball joints.
It's also handy to replace U-joints in the driveshafts.

[bobmiller1]

Try a Snap-On BJP1, An excellent tool, as a bonus it includes the u-joint press for the driveshaft, Regards, Bob

[crispyboy]

I did the ball joint project on my 4wd pickup truck three weeks ago and used a kit like the one pictured above in post #9. It is a tough job. I am a mediocre shade tree mechanic.
I am not familiar with the front end components of a motor home. For my 4wd application new ball joints can be purchased with smooth sides or splined sides. The smooth sides were for typical applications where the bore that holds joint is not worn out or enlarged. The splined models were for a bore that was enlarged. I don't know if this will pertain to the motor home front end or not.
For my project I needed:
- a kit as pictured above
- penetrating fluid - soak the joints a day or so ahead of time
- torch to loosen things up - (one joint was particularly stubborn)
- 3/4 inch drive with cheater bar on the ball joint press to get the joints moving
- a few extra large washers/spacers
- place the new ball joints in a freezer for 24 hours or more before installing makes the install easier
- anti-seize lubricant for the ball joints
- block of wood and large hammer to remove the tie-rod (pickle forks can cut the rubber boots on the tie-rod end)
- assortment of open end/ box end and sockets (1/2" and 3/4" drive)
- torque wrench for ball joints and tie rod end

Take a few pics along the way - I'm curious what your getting into.

[bkahler]

So, other than the ubber expensive Snap-On press that runs well over $300 is there a lower price kit that works on the P-30 chassis? I figure for the one or two times I would need to do the work I can't justify the Snap-On price.

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by bkahler

So, other than the ubber expensive Snap-On press that runs well over $300 is there a lower price kit that works on the P-30 chassis? I figure for the one or two times I would need to do the work I can't justify the Snap-On price.

Even the Harbor Freight, sort of works, equivalent is still $130 Brad

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

[bkahler]

Is it known for a fact that it actually works on the P-30 chassis?

Most of these kits are listed for 2-wheel & 4-wheel drive vehicles 1/2 & 3/4 ton "light trucks". Our motorhomes are on 1-ton "light truck" chassis's.

I guess that's why it's so confusing when trying to buy stuff for our hybrid motorhomes!

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Is it known for a fact that it actually works on the P-30 chassis?

Most of these kits are listed for 2-wheel & 4-wheel drive vehicles 1/2 & 3/4 ton "light trucks". Our motorhomes are on 1-ton "light truck" chassis's.

I guess that's why it's so confusing when trying to buy stuff for our hybrid motorhomes!

My P10-P30 shop manual lists the tools needed for the Job:
J-23742 to press the tapered studs out (instead of using a fork or a 2 pound hammer)
J-9519-10 with various adapters to press out the ball joint.

O'Reilly's tool loaner program may just have what I need:
its #67045 for the C-clamp press and 67048 for the various accessories.

That may be the cheapest option, if they work.
The other would be to purchase a set and we continue to sell them to each other less usage fee.

Stay tuned for an update (it may be a few weeks)

PS: I have used to 2# Hammer option just one too many times and want to avoid it if I can.

[PeterH-350LE]

getting the right tools together
found the J-9519-10 C clamp with the proper adapter (J-9519-16) for a good price. It is used to press the new lower ball joint into place.
I feel very confident the adapter set from O'Reillys will give me the adapter to press them out.
Hopefully can get on it next weekend.

BTW, this info comes from a 1982 P10-P30 shop manual. I also have a 1986 shop manual that calls for the exact same tool numbers to do the job. So i think we are covering all the classic Motorhomes into the early 90's here and hopefully the 70's Argosys

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Even the Harbor Freight, sort of works, equivalent is still $130 Brad

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

As you get older you sometimes forget what you own and what you don't own. I was looking for a tool the other day and found the ball joint service kit from the link above sitting on my shelf

Guess I don't need to worry about that anymore...