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Old 12-16-2015, 03:16 PM   #43
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Here is a press in detail using adapter J9519-16.
You can use mine, if don't find one, but it does show some stress cracks due to the enormous pressure used.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:45 PM   #44
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Peter, I'm wondering if GM came up with different adapters over the years to simplify the installation. My service manual doesn't mention the -16 adapter at all but mentions and shows the -7 and -9 in use. Which is why I went ahead and bought them off ebay.

Since you've provided the dimensional detail for the -16 fabricating a new one will be easy. I may have the retired machinist up the street fabricate one out of tool steel rather than the softer stuff I would have used if I made it myself.

I'm going to look around for a pdf of the 84 Chevy service manual to see what differences there are in the install removal process.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 12-16-2015, 08:20 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Peter, I'm wondering if GM came up with different adapters over the years to simplify the installation. My service manual doesn't mention the -16 adapter at all but mentions and shows the -7 and -9 in use. Which is why I went ahead and bought them off ebay.

Since you've provided the dimensional detail for the -16 fabricating a new one will be easy. I may have the retired machinist up the street fabricate one out of tool steel rather than the softer stuff I would have used if I made it myself.

I'm going to look around for a pdf of the 84 Chevy service manual to see what differences there are in the install removal process.

Thanks!

Brad
The -16 is shown in both the 82 and the 86 P30 shop manual I have.
Now that I have eliminated some of the front rattle, I am wondering if there are better fitting front brake pads. I always use the blue disk quiet when installing the pads, but they don't always seem to fit tight.
Is the caliper worn or are their higher quality, better fitting pads?
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:38 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer View Post
The -16 is shown in both the 82 and the 86 P30 shop manual I have.
Once I get the -9 and -7 in hand we'll have to compare dimensions, etc of the 3 adapters.

Quote:
Now that I have eliminated some of the front rattle, I am wondering if there are better fitting front brake pads. I always use the blue disk quiet when installing the pads, but they don't always seem to fit tight.
Is the caliper worn or are their higher quality, better fitting pads?
I'm not really sure what you're asking about here! I would think that all brake pads would fit the same. Based on your comment that must not be the case.

On my Argosy I just bought new calipers and brake pads from RockAuto. They had a closeout sale on a bunch of calipers so I bought 4 for the 310 and 2 for my Argosy. Price was dirt cheap at the time.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:51 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Once I get the -9 and -7 in hand we'll have to compare dimensions, etc of the 3 adapters.



I'm not really sure what you're asking about here! I would think that all brake pads would fit the same. Based on your comment that must not be the case.

On my Argosy I just bought new calipers and brake pads from RockAuto. They had a closeout sale on a bunch of calipers so I bought 4 for the 310 and 2 for my Argosy. Price was dirt cheap at the time.
when you install the pads they are kinda a loose fit to the caliper. At low speed you hear them rattle until you touch the brakes. I have had the same experience with all the chevys I owned. Brand new pads seem to be less noisy.
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Old 12-17-2015, 12:58 PM   #48
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Interesting, I never noticed any rattling on the 310.

The only other Chevy truck that I drove regularly was so load I wouldn't have noticed it anyway
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:10 PM   #49
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Interesting, I never noticed any rattling on the 310.

The only other Chevy truck that I drove regularly was so load I wouldn't have noticed it anyway
I can name 3 P30's and 1 G30 that had the same rattle. You only hear it at low speed and with all other components tight. I should try to record it
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Old 12-17-2015, 03:26 PM   #50
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Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this style of front coil spring removal tool.
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If they are easy to use then rather than spend the big bucks they are asking for on ebay I'd just build one for myself. It's nothing more than flat plate and a couple of bends.

Brad
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Old 12-17-2015, 03:30 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this style of front coil spring removal tool.
Attachment 254030

If they are easy to use then rather than spend the big bucks they are asking for on ebay I'd just build one for myself. It's nothing more than flat plate and a couple of bends.

Brad
Please don't "cheap out" on spring removal tools. It can end very badly if a tool fails to perform correctly.
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Old 12-17-2015, 03:41 PM   #52
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Please don't "cheap out" on spring removal tools. It can end very badly if a tool fails to perform correctly.
Rich, I generally don't do cheap. If or when I make a spring removal tool it will be as strong or stronger than the one in the picture. The one in the picture actually scares me a little bit. It think the arms should be thicker.

We'll see...
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Old 12-17-2015, 04:28 PM   #53
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I've never seen one like in the picture, but I don't like it either.
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Old 12-17-2015, 04:38 PM   #54
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I've never seen one like in the picture, but I don't like it either.
Rich, look at the service manual page in post #40 of this thread. Apparently the tool bolts to a transmission jack and is used to drop the lower control arm and and inner pivot shaft. Later this evening I'll post the page out of the manual showing it in use.

If it's good enough for GM it ought a be good enough for me, right?!

Brad
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:34 PM   #55
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Here's a picture of the spring remover in action. The manual gives a pretty good write up of how to use it. Interesting approach.
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Peter, I managed to get the adapter off the end of the ball joint press. It was on there REAL good

I ended up using an impact wrench to drive the screw in reverse until it tightened up and then used a hammer and large chisel to beat on the adapter. Probably took 20 minutes to finally get it off.
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From the looks of the adapter and at the end of the screw someone used an extremely large amount of force at some point and the adapter just got mushroomed onto the shaft. The adapter is probably not usable anymore but fortunately I don't think the screw is damaged. I think I just need to polish up the end a little and I should be good to go.

Brad
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Old 12-17-2015, 06:57 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post

Peter, I managed to get the adapter off the end of the ball joint press. It was on there REAL good

I ended up using an impact wrench to drive the screw in reverse until it tightened up and then used a hammer and large chisel to beat on the adapter. Probably took 20 minutes to finally get it off.
Should have made a bet with you

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From the looks of the adapter and at the end of the screw someone used an extremely large amount of force at some point ......

Brad
I swear it wasn't me, but sure makes me feel better that I am not alone..
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