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Old 11-25-2015, 08:24 AM   #15
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So, other than the ubber expensive Snap-On press that runs well over $300 is there a lower price kit that works on the P-30 chassis? I figure for the one or two times I would need to do the work I can't justify the Snap-On price.
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
So, other than the ubber expensive Snap-On press that runs well over $300 is there a lower price kit that works on the P-30 chassis? I figure for the one or two times I would need to do the work I can't justify the Snap-On price.
Even the Harbor Freight, sort of works, equivalent is still $130 Brad

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles
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Old 11-25-2015, 08:45 AM   #17
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Is it known for a fact that it actually works on the P-30 chassis?

Most of these kits are listed for 2-wheel & 4-wheel drive vehicles 1/2 & 3/4 ton "light trucks". Our motorhomes are on 1-ton "light truck" chassis's.

I guess that's why it's so confusing when trying to buy stuff for our hybrid motorhomes!
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Old 11-25-2015, 09:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Is it known for a fact that it actually works on the P-30 chassis?

Most of these kits are listed for 2-wheel & 4-wheel drive vehicles 1/2 & 3/4 ton "light trucks". Our motorhomes are on 1-ton "light truck" chassis's.

I guess that's why it's so confusing when trying to buy stuff for our hybrid motorhomes!
My P10-P30 shop manual lists the tools needed for the Job:
J-23742 to press the tapered studs out (instead of using a fork or a 2 pound hammer)
J-9519-10 with various adapters to press out the ball joint.

O'Reilly's tool loaner program may just have what I need:
its #67045 for the C-clamp press and 67048 for the various accessories.

That may be the cheapest option, if they work.
The other would be to purchase a set and we continue to sell them to each other less usage fee.

Stay tuned for an update (it may be a few weeks)

PS: I have used to 2# Hammer option just one too many times and want to avoid it if I can.
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:20 PM   #19
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getting the right tools together
found the J-9519-10 C clamp with the proper adapter (J-9519-16) for a good price. It is used to press the new lower ball joint into place.
I feel very confident the adapter set from O'Reillys will give me the adapter to press them out.
Hopefully can get on it next weekend.

BTW, this info comes from a 1982 P10-P30 shop manual. I also have a 1986 shop manual that calls for the exact same tool numbers to do the job. So i think we are covering all the classic Motorhomes into the early 90's here and hopefully the 70's Argosys
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Old 11-29-2015, 07:32 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Even the Harbor Freight, sort of works, equivalent is still $130 Brad

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles
As you get older you sometimes forget what you own and what you don't own. I was looking for a tool the other day and found the ball joint service kit from the link above sitting on my shelf

Guess I don't need to worry about that anymore...
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:16 PM   #21
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I am on it, upper right is in, getting ready to press out lower right.
As usual, lots of on the job training...Pictures later
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:42 PM   #22
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I am on it, upper right is in, getting ready to press out lower right.
As usual, lots of on the job training...Pictures later
On the job training is the best kind!
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:56 PM   #23
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Passenger side is done. What a bear that lower ball joint is!
Here are the tools I used.
I got loaner tools from Advance autoparts:
Ball joint kit# 46 Powerbuilt 648617
Fork kit #15 Powerbuilt 648646
I found this on Craigslist and I am so glad I got it to press the new lower in.
GM specialty tool #J-9519-10
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:01 PM   #24
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The ball joint kit just barely can be configured to press out the old joint. It actually comes out fairly easy after you figure out how to do it. Logic does not work, I had to read the instruction that came with the kit to figure out how to do it. Besides the C clamp, I only used 2 of the adapters to make it work.
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:05 PM   #25
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Pressing the new joint in is a whole different story. I am not sure if the ball joint kit is heavy duty enough to handle the 4' breaker bar i used to torque that ball joint into place. It really took all I had, I would estimate it takes 500-600 foot pound to press it into place using the original GM tool and 1 adapter.
The great thing was that that very tool also worked to press the rubber boot into location. It has a steel band that need to be pressed down
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:13 PM   #26
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I'm guessing that's why the truck repair place beside my work has a hydraulic press. They probably take the whole control arm off to work on it. It takes all the hard work out of it.

Good job Peter.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:20 PM   #27
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Compared to the lower, the upper ball joint is just a walk in the park. Yes the brake caliper has to come off and it needs to be hung on the side by the shock absorber. Then I had to drill the 4 rivets out and make certain to stay on center. The new upper comes with 4 grade 8 bolts, washers and nuts that are used to mount the ball joint.
My trusted shop manual gave me 45 pounds to torque the new bolts and I went for it.
You can trust your trusted shop manual, right ?
Well, 1 of the grade bolts started to get mushy, you know that feeling don't ya? Holy cow, my torque wrench must be screwed up, darn craftsman tools anyways. I got my old dial torque wrench and sure enough around 45 pounds on the other bolts.
So I went and looked at my trusted shop manual again, yup 45 pounds. Hmmmm, I wonder if there are any instruction in the box of the balljoints.
18 pounds !!!!!
So, I had to drill that one 8 grade bolt out, since i busted the thread with my stupidity.
Make sure you install the bolts with the washers and nuts on the top, or you may have some issues with the rubber boot getting torn below.
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Old 12-05-2015, 09:25 PM   #28
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Oh I forgot, the old lower right ball joint was trash. I knew it when I stepped on the brakes and heard this ugly "Clong" . The upper appeared to be in pretty good condition, but you know how it is when you got it all torn up already...might as well
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