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Old 10-15-2012, 10:25 PM   #71
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Do you still have the wrap on the header?
Yes. Bad idea?
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:58 PM   #72
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Yes. Bad idea?
Not really. I just wanted to see what all was insulated. It's possible that if you just wrapped the fuel line and not the header your problem might still be there. Only way to know would be to remove the wrap from the header, not that I'm suggesting that you do that

All in all it's good to know your problem was solvable. Does your rig have the side vents above the front wheel wells?

Brad
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:58 AM   #73
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Sounds great!
I would go for the minimum overbore, as wall thickness is more important that max cubes...
The stroker kit makes sense, but I not sure if forged pistons would be a blessing or a curse, as they need more clearance... but are more heat and pressure safe...
I would look at roller rockers too, as they reduce friction, and sideload on the valves...

Cant wait for your build thread!!!
I would have though, it no ridges, honing would do. The machinist guy said w/o a new bore the new piston sometimes have slop/noise. Got to buy new pistons anyway and like someone said here, 'We done run them at 4500rpm' some boring just one piston size up will be fine.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:18 AM   #74
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yep, the 454 can take a rebore, but it is a thin wall casting. I'd stay within .030" if possible. Never more then .060" and even then you'll be reducing some life span.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:23 AM   #75
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yep, the 454 can take a rebore, but it is a thin wall casting. I'd stay within .030" if possible. Never more then .060" and even then you'll be reducing some life span.
The 454 that I removed from the 345 that I'm scrapping turned out to be a factory reconditioned unit that was bored to .060".

Not saying this is good or bad, just a data point although I will say they must have had cooling problems with this motor because it didn't have a thermostat in it when I checked.

Brad
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:35 AM   #76
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Something else to think about. This particular 345 (1986) had oil cooler lines running from an adapter where the oil filter mounts to the right side (at least I think it was right side) of the radiator and transmission cooling lines to the left side.

The radiator itself was physically the same size as the one in our 1984 310 which does not have these oil cooler lines. This just makes me wonder if GM is over working the radiator/cooling system by also trying to cool the engine oil and transmission oil at the same time as the engine itself.

I would think a separate engine oil cooler would have been more appropriate. There was a factory installed set of radiator cooling fans so apparently someone recognized the added head load.

I plan on adding a remote engine oil cooler with fan on the Argosy. I like being cool...
Brad
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:44 PM   #77
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Funny this should come up... When I was over at my M/H last week I did some detective work....

My 1984 345:
1/ Has the adaptor plate between the oil filter, on the drivers side. This is a common thing, as my 1987 Suburban motor has the same.
Two pipes then go forward along the oil pan bolt line, and I have an 10" x 8" engine oil cooler mounted ahead of the radiator. Some vehicles do have the engine oil cooler on the drivers side of the radiator.
2/ has NO external trans cooler fitted... only the one inside the radiator. I will be putting an external cooler in as a priority.
3/ The radiator is 36" x 20" x 4"... already looking at new Aluminum Universal style radiators. Not found one that is a direct fit, but have seen dual row chevy style 34 x 19 x 3 radiators that would work fine and out cool the original. Not a fan of having oil coolers built in. The whole idea is cheapness and also helping to get the engine and or transmission oil heated more quickly in short journeys. Not something I think is an issue on a M/H.
4/ Just for note... the AC condensor is 30x18x1.5.

My plan is a better waterpump, more efficient radiator, and maybe do away with the engine driven fan for twin electric units... I have my eye on the 2 speed pusher fans from a mercedes 300e mounted tandem.. Junkyards rule!

The engine and trans coolers will be seperate units, so as to not load the engine cooling system and lesson the risk of a single system failure destroying multiple items... FYI, I have seen chevy radiators leak coolant into the trans cooler.... Coolant + transmissions = rapid failure...
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:23 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Funny this should come up... When I was over at my M/H last week I did some detective work....

My 1984 345:
1/ Has the adaptor plate between the oil filter, on the drivers side. This is a common thing, as my 1987 Suburban motor has the same.
Two pipes then go forward along the oil pan bolt line, and I have an 10" x 8" engine oil cooler mounted ahead of the radiator. Some vehicles do have the engine oil cooler on the drivers side of the radiator.
2/ has NO external trans cooler fitted... only the one inside the radiator. I will be putting an external cooler in as a priority.
3/ The radiator is 36" x 20" x 4"... already looking at new Aluminum Universal style radiators. Not found one that is a direct fit, but have seen dual row chevy style 34 x 19 x 3 radiators that would work fine and out cool the original. Not a fan of having oil coolers built in. The whole idea is cheapness and also helping to get the engine and or transmission oil heated more quickly in short journeys. Not something I think is an issue on a M/H.
4/ Just for note... the AC condensor is 30x18x1.5.

My plan is a better waterpump, more efficient radiator, and maybe do away with the engine driven fan for twin electric units... I have my eye on the 2 speed pusher fans from a mercedes 300e mounted tandem.. Junkyards rule!

The engine and trans coolers will be seperate units, so as to not load the engine cooling system and lesson the risk of a single system failure destroying multiple items... FYI, I have seen chevy radiators leak coolant into the trans cooler.... Coolant + transmissions = rapid failure...
Whether it leaks into the transmission fluid or the engine oil the net result is going to be about the same, something is going to get trashed. This condition is one very good reason to switch to remote coolers and not use the cooling ports on the radiator for either the transmission or the engine.

I do believe I'll be going that route when things start to get reassembled. I had planned on the engine oil cooler so one more remote cooler sure won't hurt things.

Have you considered having your radiator re-cored with a 4-row replacement?

Brad
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:56 PM   #79
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Whether it leaks into the transmission fluid or the engine oil the net result is going to be about the same, something is going to get trashed. This condition is one very good reason to switch to remote coolers and not use the cooling ports on the radiator for either the transmission or the engine.

I do believe I'll be going that route when things start to get reassembled. I had planned on the engine oil cooler so one more remote cooler sure won't hurt things.

Have you considered having your radiator re-cored with a 4-row replacement?

Brad
Still a little away on the radiator issue, so all is in play...
I have see no sign of leaking or overheating, but I am concerned about the slight staining I can see on the top drivers side in this pic...



None of the radiators I have seen have the forward facing "remote" filler neck we have, but I could go without it...


Here you can see the "Sandwich" I have...



Engine oil cooler at the front(rh side of pic) mounted on an ugly angle bracket...
Then Electric fan, manually switched from dash...
Then AC condensor..
Then Radiator.

Another view from drivers side.


My gut tells me to do it like this...
Best cooling radiator I can get with no internal oil coolers.
Biggest AC condensor I can get, in the new plate style.
Twin 18" diameter pusher fans with 2 speeds mounted ahead of that.
Engine oil cooler seperate and and a large trans cooler mounted to get airflow, but outboard to not steal airflow from radiator.

4 row means coolant flows left to right 4 times?
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:30 PM   #80
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Sounds like you guys are going to end up in the low 10's with your drag motors...sounds like your going a bit overboard.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:39 PM   #81
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Sounds like you guys are going to end up in the low 10's with your drag motors...sounds like your going a bit overboard.
LOL, well if a job is worth doing...
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:05 PM   #82
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LOL, well if a job is worth doing...
...have someone else do it
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:11 PM   #83
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Still a little away on the radiator issue, so all is in play...
I have see no sign of leaking or overheating, but I am concerned about the slight staining I can see on the top drivers side in this pic...

Yep, that's a bad sign. Last motorhome we had was stained like that and it eventually gave up and I had to replaced it. Radiator shop said it would be difficult to fix that type of issue.

Quote:
None of the radiators I have seen have the forward facing "remote" filler neck we have, but I could go without it...
It doesn't cost much to have a filler neck added to a radiator. Last one I did for my wife's race car cost about $35.

Quote:
4 row means coolant flows left to right 4 times?
That is my understanding but I'm not all that knowledgeable on this stuff. Last radiator shop I talked to suggested something like that for my Argosy before we realized the radiator had been replaced not to long ago and was in decent shape.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:31 PM   #84
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I just re-core'd my radiator. Its a standard 454 4 pass that came in these rigs. That cost me just over $400, which was cheaper than new but more expensive than a cheap Chinese unit.
I wasn't losing too much fluid, but I did see a constant drip. I replaced the t-stat and water pump, hoses and belts while I had it open. Now, it starts up real quiet and gets up to 210 degrees and stays there, just like new. The original problem was that the clutch fan had lost some of the viscous fluid, became unbalanced and killed the water pump. If you take that out to recore, do the belts and whatever else you can grab your hands on. you will not regret it.
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